Coilovers vs springs/struts

Will it require welding or just all bolts?
Canada's salty weather makes me wanna stay way from coils.
 
wondermalt said:
Will it require welding or just all bolts?
Canada's salty weather makes me wanna stay way from coils.
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You need to cut about 1-1.5" off the top of the housing to get the stock shock out. Then drill a hole in the bottom, slip in the Koni, and secure with bolt through the bottom. Reassemble with new springs and install.
 
contemplating on getting eibach sport lines. would it be smart to purchase a rear camber kit just in case, and alignment after installation?
 
An alignment after pretty much every suspension modification is strongly recommended/required. Someone else with more knowledge is bound to pop in to answer about the camber arms.
 
ac3jason said:
Hell yeah. Lol glad to hear you dont regret it. I would like to drop that low I just dont know how id feel in the long run about it. How long have you had them? Did you use the stock struts with them?
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Hey man, sorry been busy but I've had them for about 6 months and they are on the stock struts. My ride is still smooth <all things considered ;)>. they were 200 bucks and have been straight baller as far as stance and handling goes...not to mention the appearance! Orrrr you can spend 5-900 on coilovers which yeah, you can adjust and it's better overall for your vehicle..but even so, you'll still have to eventually get the next stage suspension/struts...all in all, for 2 benji's and a relatively stress free install, this the definition of bang for your buck!
 
Pauly99to17 said:
That's my Dyno blue car ^^^ on Eibach Pro kit springs. I'm very happy with them. Been on them since 2012. Don't worry about your shocks, they will last no problem. The camber kit isn't necessary either.
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Came for this. Most concerned about buying the pro kit and needing a camber kit too, glad you don't need it. Replacing shocks at some point in the future is no big deal. I am abiut to buy a used set from someone locally, can anything really be wrong with springs? Anything I should look for? Also, does the pro kit from ebaich come with anything in the box other than just 4 springs (no hardware needed right?)
 
In answer to the question of spring pricing:

Certain springs have better quality metals, forming, and windings. Eibach is a great company for quality springs. Want knowledges? See below....

The best material for springs is precision-drawn Chrome-Steel alloy wire. Most Eibach racing springs are made from a steel high in chromium and silicon which is slightly more fatigue resistant than Cr-Van or Cro-Moly. A lot of companies use a cheap steel alloy. For a product that is subject to cyclical stresses as is a spring the fatigue strength of the steel is the most important characteristic. Most of them are chrome vanadium alloys just like the tools you can buy. It helps with stress memory and bending moment vs shattering. Crome-molybdenum steel is super popular but not always the best choice.

Also its nearly impossible to find out what process a company used but, hot-forming springs causes hydrogen embrittlement and reduces fatigue strength, any spring made by Eibach or made by Eibach for someone else is a cold-formed spring.


Am underemployed non-working engineer. Ask @ethlar - him is real engineer. So are a few other folks on here. Their names escape me at the moment.
 
Spring physics: Well beyond the old

Work W = (1/2) k x2

and

Kinetic Energy KE = ½•m•v2


A coil spring is really a torsion spring--the wire twists as the spring compresses. The material's resistance to torsion is what supplies the resisting force. A common misconception is that a coil spring "sags" therefore losing spring rate over time, but a look at the components of the equation for the spring rate of a coil spring will show you that is not likely if the spring is properly designed.

Spring Rate = F/S = Gd4/8ND3 where:
F = spring force.
S = spring deflection.
G = torsional modulus of the material.
d = wire diameter.
N = number of active coils.
D = mean (average) coil diameter.
 
I think you covered it pretty well @Nix my materials science is pretty rusty at this point
 
Cody McEniry said:
Go with springs my man, Skunk2 lowering springs are absolutely the truth. I know you said not any lower that 1-1.5" but this is 2.5" front and 2" rear and is stancy as hell. Daily driver too.
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Looks mean. After seeing this, I’ve decided on a 2” drop
 
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