2012 si coupe Installed after market clutch and Every Cel imaginable lit up

Stillrocking247

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First I would like to thank anyone who can give me some insight into this in advance this has been a real P.I.A.
Ok here goes
Had a friend call and ask if I could install a new clutch in their 2012 civic si
After a good bit of harping on burning a clutch out with less than 30000 miles i agreed to do it
never done a front wheel drive clutch before figured it wouldnt be that big of a deal
haha holy disassemble the entire front end batman
ok so i followed the procedure got the the old clutch assembly out
ordered a slighlty lighter flywheel ( 9 pounds ) stage 1 clutch kit from ACS for a decent price came with the bearing ,pilot bushing ,alignment pin got every thing bolted back on had a little trouble with getting the transaxles stabbed back in put it all back together
went for first test ride through the neighborhood
every thing worked great shifted nice and smooth but never got past forth gear
so i went back to the garage and did a quick visual , checked the mount bolts and such just to be safe
everything looked good i did get a little more tourqe on the wheel well mount
then set out to tske it on the highway
every thing still was running smooth till it was time to go to 5th gear at about 40 mph (taking it easy Breaking the in new clutch)
5th gear was nowhere to be found
it was /is like there is a skip plate blocking it tried to go back to fourth to bring the speed up a little and every damn sensor in the book starts lighting up on the imid check VSA check emissions, tpms , abs ,power steering, then the car goes into limp mode and i can no longer go past 3000 rpms and the engine starts runnung like crap and idling erratically then loses power even under 3000 rpm and the engine light starts blinking
Damn !!!!!
so get back and run my scanner the only codes i get are misfire cyl 1234 and random misfire like 14 pending and four permanent
I've gone through the idle reteach procedure
Disconnected the battery re-plugged all the sensors while it was disconnected
still cant get the trans to shift into fifth or sixth gear even with the engine off
was thinkin/ hoping that may be part of limp mode ?
the car runs great and shifts smooth up to when its time to go to 5th gear then
starts the light show and rough idle again
does limp mode lock out 5th /6th gear on these cars ?
is there another learn procedure for the ecu that i need to do?
as far as I know everything worked before the clutch went out
I will say the clutch was completely toasted and was no longer making contact
but was told it was still going into gear
(Woman driver lol )
sorry for the long story
hope i covered all the bases lol
Please HELP need this car out of my garage so i can work on other things
Thanks again
 
I've seen three threads on the 8th gen forums talking about 5th/6th being blocked out when limp mode is happening. So I'm guessing they've enabled the same thing on the 9th gens. I haven't seen anyone talk about it yet, but it must be the same.

lightweight flywheels will cause limp mode:

competition clutch quote -

"The 2012 and up cars uses a very sensitive crank speed detection system. If the ecu does not see the crank speed up and slow down properly (within what it knows is proper) in between each stage of the 4 stroke cycle (suck, squeeze, bang, blow) it will throw a check engine light and cause the vehicle to go into limp mode.

We have found out that our clutch assembly for the previous gen si's (8037 base kits), when combined with a properly weighted OEM flywheel (22100-RBC-003), will fall within the realm of what the ecu deems as proper and allow the car to run with an aftermarket clutch assembly.

With an aftermarket ecu or perhaps a reflash of the factory ecu you can get around all that and just bolt up a previous gen clutch and flywheel (8037 & 2-800). I hope this clears things up for you.

Thank you,
Dominic F.
Warranty/Tech
Competition Clutch, Inc"

============

hondata flashpro tuning software can clear the issue, but it's like $699

hondata quote -
hondata said:
snip....., and it can switch off the misfire codes associated with light flywheels.
Doug
 
wow that blows
wasn't expecting the lighter flywheel to be a problem
sure wish they would have mentioned that where it was purchased :-/
are the flash pros only allowed to program one vehicle at a time ?
is there a way to confirm that is the problem before shelling out the dough
assuming that's the case does anyone know of someplace in the North Houston, Texas area that can flash the ecu for a reasonable price ?
did this job basically as a favor for a friend in need
they dont really have much cash coming in and this is their D.D.
i really dont know crap about these cars as far as mods go and such
I have owned a honda but it was the two wheeled 1000rr type
thanks again
 
I know nothing about this company, but it's listed as a hondata flashpro "retailer" in Houston

Secret Services Auto
9239 Alberene Dr.
Houston TX 77074 USA
713-772-7223
sales@secretservicesauto.com
www.secretservicesauto.com

It's not something they'll probably have on hand though. They'd probably have to order the unit from hondata in california. The unit is car specific/tied to the vin. The flashpro unit can't be returned after reflashing the tune. They'd need to keep the hondata unit to continue the ecu retune working. If you'd try to sell the unit to someone, they'd basically have a paperweight. They wouldn't be able to hook the unit up to their car, because the old vin number would be tied to the unit. The only way to resell the unit is by un-marrying the flashpro from the vin. When it does that, it reloads the OEM tune back on the car. When you'd do that, you'd be back to having the ecu going into limp mode.

So they either buy/keep the flashpro unit, or you go back to an oem flywheel. I don't know of any other option.

https://www.hondata.com/flashpro_2012si_acura_ilx.html

on the plus side, if the person ever wants to modify the car, they'll be able to extract hp/tq out of the engine by getting it tuned.
 
personally id talk to the manufacturer of the flywheel and try to get it returned/refunded since they never mentioned youd need flashpro to run it properly on your car. Then id go for an OEM replacement
 
I'm hoping I'm just over thinking all this but I don't have a lot of down time to fix the car so I want it to be right the first time. First, I understand all the info about the clutches matching, not matching, flywheel changes per type of clutch and application, flashpro possibilities, etc. What I am having a struggle on is what is meant by the previous quote of "8037 base kits". 8037's are for the 8th gen from as far as I can find out but the "base kit" part is throwing me for a loop. Nowhere is it written that any kit is a "base kit" on any website and it's all just the standard stage 1,2,3,4 or whatever.

So, is a base kit like this...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Competition...ash=item2806b45c6b:g:DtsAAOSw3ydV5F5s&vxp=mtr

Or like this...
http://www.procivic.com/pages-produ...1:07d95064da059b35ec2832169c6d94f8/index.html

The procivic one says must use CC flywheel or similar and when looked up on their website and also says flashpro is needed to run. I'm wanting a slight upgrade for the clutch as I'm not easy on it but looking for the easiest and quickest way without FP right now. On top of that I assume all clutch kits of 8037-***** regardless need the 8th gen flywheel. To go factory is just about the same price or more so I don't see why I wouldn't try to upgrade it while the trans is taken out and no it's not a clutch issue but trans issue that has fueled this clutch swap while I'm in there.
 
I'm hoping I'm just over thinking all this but I don't have a lot of down time to fix the car so I want it to be right the first time. First, I understand all the info about the clutches matching, not matching, flywheel changes per type of clutch and application, flashpro possibilities, etc. What I am having a struggle on is what is meant by the previous quote of "8037 base kits". 8037's are for the 8th gen from as far as I can find out but the "base kit" part is throwing me for a loop. Nowhere is it written that any kit is a "base kit" on any website and it's all just the standard stage 1,2,3,4 or whatever.

So, is a base kit like this...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Competition...ash=item2806b45c6b:g:DtsAAOSw3ydV5F5s&vxp=mtr

Or like this...
http://www.procivic.com/pages-produ...1:07d95064da059b35ec2832169c6d94f8/index.html

The procivic one says must use CC flywheel or similar and when looked up on their website and also says flashpro is needed to run. I'm wanting a slight upgrade for the clutch as I'm not easy on it but looking for the easiest and quickest way without FP right now. On top of that I assume all clutch kits of 8037-***** regardless need the 8th gen flywheel. To go factory is just about the same price or more so I don't see why I wouldn't try to upgrade it while the trans is taken out and no it's not a clutch issue but trans issue that has fueled this clutch swap while I'm in there.
Those links don't list the part #, but I'm sure the procivic stage 1 would be correct. @PRO Civic could prob verify their part # for you.

"8037-2400" is the part number that works for the 2012+ civic si (stage 1).
http://competitionclutch.com/csindex.php?vn=stage-1-info
 
The part number on the ebay listing as stated

Manufacturer Part Number: 8037-Stock

I would prefer the 1.5 full face if it's interchangeable as I assume so.
 
That's what I wanted to hear, and yes your right on that part number and the stage 1.5 according to k series parts the part number is 8037-1500. But here's another question because on Amazon there is a stage 2 with a 8037-2100 that has the "same" shipping weight as both s1/s1.5 so is that a viable option as well? There's a stage 4 you can find on amazon too that has an 8037-1620 part number and weight so again same question. If weight is the problem then technically these all should work.
 
The flywheel weight is the issue with errors/limp mode on aftermarket clutches. Flashpro can get rid of it though.
 
Have you considered the ACT flywheel we have? According to ACT, it is heavy enough so that it does not require a FlashPro to run correctly. Here is the link: https://www.procivic.com/p/m/civic/act-xact-streetlite-flywheel.html

^We have a note that says "HONDATA FLASHPRO MAY BE REQUIRED FOR YOUR CAR TO RUN CORRECTLY WITH THIS PART" only because we have not quite sold enough of these to know if there is a 0% chance of having any issues. When we spoke with ACT, they did not have any issues, and none of our customers have had issues. Basically, the statement is there just as a precaution at this point.
 
I was thinking overall weight assuming the flywheel was constant. This being different weights in the clutches and pressure plates which is not as significant but still was an idea. I was not aware of the ACT being within weight range so I will look into that. I just don't want to have to buy a FP right now if I don't have to as it is a DD right now. Other question is weight again with the flywheel's...ACT states 13.8lbs and a stock 8th from what I can find is 15.6lbs. Is this difference worth worrying about for a CEL? Seems like a no but I'm sorry if I'm skeptical.
 
I was thinking overall weight assuming the flywheel was constant. This being different weights in the clutches and pressure plates which is not as significant but still was an idea. I was not aware of the ACT being within weight range so I will look into that. I just don't want to have to buy a FP right now if I don't have to as it is a DD right now. Other question is weight again with the flywheel's...ACT states 13.8lbs and a stock 8th from what I can find is 15.6lbs. Is this difference worth worrying about for a CEL? Seems like a no but I'm sorry if I'm skeptical.

According to ACT the difference is not enough to trigger a CEL. We've sold it to quite a few customers with no issues.
 
Another 1200 is not within the budget right now or I would drop it np. Trust me I would rather buy dp/fp than a 1100 trans. I appreciate the feedback @PRO Civic.

Came across this trying to fish up info that I thought would be worth sharing as I'll probably look into it and confirm it works.

"A brand new flywheel for the 03-11 Element is listed on Rock Auto for $49.79. I paid $78 at NAPA. It's a direct fit to the 8th and 9th civic Si and the kit for the 8th Si bolts right on. It's 14.5 lbs."

****update**** copied from post below for clarification
To come back to the Element clutch/flywheel "debocal" NO NO NO will it fit unless you go ALL element parts.Reason being that the alignment dowels on the element flywheel are different than the Si... So no upgrades... FAIL!! Best bet honestly is the CC stage 1-1.5 with the ACT flywheel for money AND piece of mind. I can confirm all parts ordiered mesh with each other perfectly before install so that is all that is left. Dp and tune may still be obtainable, hang tight whilst I over run this thread :thumb:
 
To come back to the Element clutch/flywheel "debocal" NO NO NO will it fit unless you go ALL element parts.Reason being that the alignment dowels on the element flywheel are different than the Si... So no upgrades... FAIL!! Best bet honestly is the CC stage 1-1.5 with the ACT flywheel for money AND piece of mind. I can confirm all parts ordered mesh with each other perfectly before install so that is all that is left. Dp and tune may still be obtainable, hang tight whilst I over run this thread :thumb:
 
Updated your post above so others see it doesn't work. Thanks for the info
 
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