2014 civic si Engine Light : Check Emissions System.

sunofwolf said:
sounds a bit expensive too me, One thing I would never mess with is the Honda air box-it happens to work extremely well, zero need to fool with.
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I know that if Honda had done work to it, wouldn’t be any cheaper than what is spent now.
But maybe your right .
 
Hi folks.

So here’s where I’m at now.
After receiving the new MAF sensor and installed it.. car was idling fine. Took it for a little drive and noticed slack of power... like when I went to give it gas. It didn’t respond as well... I thought maybe it was because I was low on fuel.... it was weird. Anyways. Went to get gas and put it a bar over half, and started the car. Car started NO PROBLEM. When it went to you know like it revs up to 1500 or 2000k when it starts and it goes to idle..... it idled low.... almost stalled, caught itself and as it caught itself it threw CHECK EMISSONS SYSTEM. Was Idling same as before.


The mechanic told me the car was running air flow of 17.4..... very lean

But would sometimes run fine on restarts at 14.2 I believe ?


So it was NOT the maf sensor that needed to be replaced.... at this point I took it to Honda today, and when I arrived they said forget warranty , and Honda REFUSED to service my car unless the short ram was uninstalled and put back to factory. Apparently this is a “tune” the short ram.....?


So at this point Honda’s gonna look at it and let me know what it is.
 
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Take the negative off the battery. When you reconnect the battery, start the car and do not touch the gas. Let the car idle for 10-15min without doing anything to the gas pedal. That is the “relearn” procedure for the ecu. Shut the car off...restart and go for a drive and see how it responds.
 
@George Tsimiklis I am sorry to hear the bad news that is a lot of money to be back at ground zero. Do you still have the P0171 code as the check emissions code? @webby brings up a good point I didn't even think of that could be a possible solution. And I am just curious how many miles are on your car?
 
Me and my father had tried that procedure and nothing helped, we even tried doing a idle relearn procedure by holding the car At 3500 for 5 min and letting sit for 5.

The car JUST passed 100k. Car was bought from Honda with 87k. I’m frustrated how I couldn’t find it myself. And after Spending 400 at my mechanic. He turned me to Honda.

Yes it was the exact same code as prior, code continues to come after being cleared.

Right when I put in gas the car isles and threw it
 
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Honda don't like people who mess with it, perhaps talk to it and put some good gas in, maybe the car will start working again.
 
I’m in Nova Scotia there is no such thing as good gas here.


The car was 4 bars when I had filled it above half. Same issue occurs
 
Oh be careful when you bring it in-aftermarket parts are a problem with them, take them off. :chopwood:
 
Have you tried taking the EGR out and just cleaning it? How do the injectors look? Have you checked the O2 sensor?
 
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mySIck said:
Have you tried taking the EGR out and just cleaning it? How do the injectors look? Have you checked the O2 sensor?
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My mechanic did a Honda check list and everything was fine. Spark plugs o2 sensor and maf and for vacuum leaks .... the last thing to check was the fuel injectors.... he said what you can do is leave them with us and we can ship them away to have them tested? Or just go to Honda.
 
George Tsimiklis said:
My mechanic did a Honda check list and everything was fine. Spark plugs o2 sensor and maf and for vacuum leaks .... the last thing to check was the fuel injectors.... he said what you can do is leave them with us and we can ship them away to have them tested? Or just go to Honda.
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I’m hoping its not a huge tuning/ecu problem.
 
I have a local place that can test injectors I would call around to some Performance stores to see if they have the equipment to do a test.
 
George Tsimiklis said:
the car was running air flow of 17.4
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The car isn't going to run right with a 17.4:1 a/f. I would put your entire oem air box, oem air filter, etc ALL back in place. Do the battery removal/idle relearn procedure with the stock airbox and report back. That won't cost you a dime, and you can at least eliminate the aftermarket intake as a problem point. Ideally the car should be running 14.7:1. It should have zero to do with your injectors, as they are spraying fuel based on what the maf is saying it's getting for air flow into the engine. You have a new maf sensor, so you know it's not the culprit.
 
webby said:
The car isn't going to run right with a 17.4:1 a/f. I would put your entire oem air box, oem air filter, etc ALL back in place. Do the battery removal/idle relearn procedure with the stock airbox and report back. That won't cost you a dime, and you can at least eliminate the aftermarket intake as a problem point. Ideally the car should be running 14.7:1. It should have zero to do with your injectors, as they are spraying fuel based on what the maf is saying it's getting for air flow into the engine. You have a new maf sensor, so you know it's not the culprit.
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Sounds good I will let you know
 
I all ready said to do that, but perhaps the computer has a worm in it and needs a reflash.:worms:
 
webby said:
The car isn't going to run right with a 17.4:1 a/f. I would put your entire oem air box, oem air filter, etc ALL back in place. Do the battery removal/idle relearn procedure with the stock airbox and report back. That won't cost you a dime, and you can at least eliminate the aftermarket intake as a problem point. Ideally the car should be running 14.7:1. It should have zero to do with your injectors, as they are spraying fuel based on what the maf is saying it's getting for air flow into the engine. You have a new maf sensor, so you know it's not the culprit.
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Agreed. The common denominator here is the intake. I'm betting you need a tune. Regardless of which intake it is or how long it ran "fine" before.

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