Check emissions system/VSA

Hannah

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I recently had a stereo system installed in my 2013 Civic SI. I was driving and started smelling electrical smell so I pulled over. My husband told me to pull the fuse. I accidentally pulled the wrong one now the emissions and vsa check lights are on. My car cuts out at 3000 RPM. I connected the fuse back correctly but it hasn't fixed the problem. Any suggestions?
 
Remove the negative battery terminal for at least a few minutes and then reconnect it and start the car (and let it idle without touching the gas pedal). See if it still has a warning.
 
I kinda did this earlier but maybe I didn't do it correctly. I first disconnected the negative then I removed the positive. I left if off for about 15 minutes. Reconnected the negative then the positive. Started the car. The navigation prompted me to hold the power button for 2 seconds to reset it. I did that. All of the warnings are still on.

I drove it and had the battery checked, it was good. The codes that came up when I had it scanned are: 02 sensor, engine control module, mass air flow sensor, and camshaft position circuit.
 
Did you or anyone else go through the fuses to see if you have one (or more) that are bad? Did you locate the “electrical burning smell” to a wire/fuse or something that failed? Is the amp and whatnot working?
 
The electrical smell was coming from my sub; I know this because that's where the smoke was coming from. The amp was fine, not hot or smoking. I checked the fuses and from what I can tell they are good. The fuses aren't brown or cloudy. I've never experienced anything like this before. Who would have thought that pulling a fuse would cause all of these problems?
 
I pulled the #7 fuse which isn't connected to any of the warnings that the car is prompting.
 
I really appreciate your help. I've read all day trying to figure out what I've done and how to fix it and can't figure it out. It's completely stock other than the system that was put in it. 50,000 miles.
 
You could try doing the ecu reset to see if it will get rid of it. Besides taking it to a place like autozone to have them pull the codes (they will do that for free), this is worth a shot.

Disconnect the positive and negative battery cables. Then you’re supposed to wait like 5 minutes and touch the positive and negative battery cables together. Then you can reconnect the battery. Start the car and let it idle without touching the gas pedal for what people claim takes ~10min for the car to relearn the air/fuel etc. So just let it idle. Then shut the car off/restart and take it for a drive and see if it remains.
 
I didn't touch the battery cables together. I redo disconnecting the cables and try that and see if that changes anything. I'm guessing it won't, but its worth a shot. I took it to Advance and had them pull codes (I listed the ones it pulled in my reply post earlier). It'll be a few hours before I will be able to try the battery cables again, but I'll let you know. Thanks!
 
Sorry I see it now. I’m used to people posting the actual code #’s.
 
Oh I'm sorry. I didn't think to write the numbers down. Should I go back and get them?
 
Unfortunately this sounds like a wiring issue. The poor wiring in the sound system could have burned other wires or shorted the system.

Did you pull it a fuse with the car running? You should go ahead and test all of the fuses with a multimeter.

Highly doubtful all of those systems failed simultaneously so there must be something else tripping the computer.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
The car was off when I pulled the fuse. I didn't think all of those systems would fail at the same time either, that's why I thought just resetting it would fix the problem but it didn't. I don't have the tool to actually test the fuses, I just eye checked them but maybe I missed something. I will invest in a multimeter tomorrow and see what I come up with. Thank you for your time and help, I appreciate it.

Good thing is my car still has warranty, bad thing is it probably won't be covered since I did aftermarket work to it unless I take everything out and hope they don't notice
 
Like @dpetro1 said it is probably just a wiring problem. How did you run all of your wiring? I would start from the sub and go through the full wiring to include any wires you tapped into. Also check the fuses in the engine bay near the battery.

My car has done this many times, but I have done a bit of performance upgrades and sometimes it would got into the safety mode to prevent any damage to the motor it doesn't necessarily mean those objects failed.
 
How did you get it out of safety mode? I had it scanned today with a SnapOn diagnostic scanner and it had these codes:

P1298 EDL Voltage High

P0102 Map Sensor Voltage Low

P0304 CMP Sensor "A" No Pulse

P0104 H02S S2 Heater Circuit Malfunction

Engine Temporary Codes (No Codes Number for this one)

Checked all fuses- they are good.

I guess I'll look the codes up and see what I can figure out. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. This is driving me nuts because I can usually figure out what's wrong with my car and this has me baffled. I feel like such an idiot
 
The only way out of safety mode is to correct the issue or disable the sensor. By any chance did you pull the MAF sensor out?
 
I didn't pull the MAF sensor but that was one of the codes that came up when I had it scanned at Advance.
 
who did the audio install? Did you take it to an audio shop, you, someone you know...? What all was installed, and have you talked to the installers (if it wasn't you)?
 
My husband did the audio install. He doesn't work at a shop but he has installed countless systems that never have any problems. With that said, he usually installs on older vehicles with less computer stuff on them. He installed a Skar SDR 12 inch 1200 watt sub with a Skar 600 watt amp. He first tapped into the factory amp. It hit really hard for about a week but blew that channel completely. It had no power at all. So he ended up running it through the back speakers which made it work but it didn't sound anything like it did when it was ran to the factory amp.

Called Honda this morning and they are a month and a half out on appointments so its going to be a while before it'll be fixed unless somehow I can figure it out with the help of the people on here.

Thanks for your alls time and time, I appreciate it so much!
 
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