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I'm aware, but I should have added that. I agree with you on preferring the Moogs, as people have had issues with the Progress end links not holding their settings. I did not receive plates. I didn't do anything about it, as their instructions (at the time at least which was a year or so ago)...

It's smaller and not stiff enough to warrant it. Just for clarifications sake, the 22mm Progress bar does not come with the reinforcement plates. You are also not supposed to run the OEM endlinks as they are incredibly weak and known to also break with these bars. Moogs are recommended.

1. 2013 Honda Civic Si 2. Tein Street Advance 3. Yes for snow

Those examples are also all cheap cast wheels made by god knows who. Just because "many" wheel companies do it, does not make it a good practice. You can feel free to rock them. It's your car and no one can stop you. It's just a friendly warning of something you may want to keep an eye on...

Wow, now that's classy. Though if the seller needed more trash for weight they should have just thrown themselves in there instead of taking apart their landscaping.

Nice job on the write-up. I thought one already existed or I might have chimed in already. Running the Type-S as well and definitely happy with it over the HID setup I had on before. Wiring is just PnP like the OEM fogs. If you take your time with the trimming they should have no fitment...

A good cure for waking up (if you don't do coffee or something) is just taking a small dose of that pre-workout for some energy. All you need is enough to want to get going. There is only 1g of creatine in C4, so keep that in mind (don't know how many you were taking before). Arguably the...

Yeah, there has been quite a surge in the last several months of people adding the ZDX TB when it's not worth it. A post made by VitViper on another site sums it up nicely: I know people would like to keep their OEM manifold design for the low-end torque, but really if you are after better...

Highly doubt anyone is running this given how few people even have the whole Full-Race kit. Not to mention that is the area of the kit that could use some tweaks in fitment to compete better with PRL's (their Garrett core is also very nice). To answer the question though, you shouldn't have any...

You are correct, but misunderstanding what part of the system causes "turbo flutter" (what is actually happening is called cavitation). This happens when the air is not released from the charge piping via a BOV/BPV and heads back into the compressor housing. That obviously is not good. However...

PRL and other companies do not offer it mostly due to it adding cost to the kit for what probably is not a big performance difference for most people. Plus people often think that you won't get any sound with a recirculation setup (You will, as it's venting into the inlet which is obviously...

The thought behind using recirculation is that diverting the pressurized air back to the turbo will improve it's response when getting back onto the throttle after a shift. Compared to a VTA setup, it's more complicated only because you have to: 1) Have a BOV/BPV that has a fitting for a...

Yep, you'll just need something that accepts DBO before the amp (JL cleansweep, Rockford 3Sixty.3, etc.).

Install looks nice! Running Kicker speakers as well?

Correct.

Indeed. Guy on the other forum is in the process of a build on a 14 and it's still the same stuff. The new head unit is the only thing that was "upgraded" and that won't change a thing about how it sounds.

My aunt used it to buy her CR-V a year or two ago. She really liked it. Like HondaGeek said, it's a really good way to avoid a lot of the dealership hassle.

Yeah there happened to be a guy who blew his amp and one tweeter (I'm curious to know how, but didn't ask). Also I just realized they may have used that plastic mount for their new tweeters. They are glued to that, but I thought most were too big for the mounts. Also I'd think it would be less...

We will see about selling them. Tweeters and amp were already sold. People at the very least need blown speaker replacements haha! Your tweeters were glued? Mine were in a plastic mount that is only held to the A-pillar with 3 screws.

Yea, I checked the part numbers too, but actually it is correct. The magnets on all the speakers are the same size in my vehicle (I have a thread on the other forum with their pictures, as they're for sale now). Price also doesn't dictate that they are automatically bad either. They are...