I installed camber correction on all 4 corners to be able to adjust it how I wanted. natural camber in the rear was -2.3 and almost none in the front. in that picture I adjusted camber to around -0.6 front -1.6 rear
I would advise getting the bolt-on type. I got mine on eBay by searching 5x114.3 12x1.5 64.1
I got 20mm all around for $59 a pair shipped. here's how they look:
camber specs there were roughly -.6 front, -1.2 rear and its quite flush.
I have since added a touch more camber all around...
turn your A/C on. it dehumidifies the air. this is useful for times when you prefer to use recirculate, such as in traffic and you don't want to suck in exhaust fumes.
if its cold outside, and warm inside your vehicle, you will experience the condensation you're talking about. as you breathe...
after my pro-kit drop I had:
-2.3 and -1.8 rear camber
-0.7 and -0.4 front camber
I tried to manipulate the front strut bolts to give max camber using the factory bolts, as there is a bit of wiggle room there.
ended up installing rear camber sliders and front camber bolts to give full...
thanks guys :)
yes, a rear camber kit was needed in order to obtain the necessary flushness :P
even with the mild drop of the pro-kit, it was around -2.3 to -2.5 degrees of rear camber which was too much for me. although not necessary, I also installed front camber bolts just to be able to...
I should mention that I have front camber bolts and rear camber sliders. even with the moderate drop of the pro-kit, it left me with around -2.3 to -2.5 degrees of rear camber, which was just too much for me. the front camber didn't need to be adjusted, but I figured for $20 bucks, its worth...
I decided that the name brand spacers are way overpriced. I mean, its basically just a piece of machined aluminum with some studs pressed in. I went with a no-name brand found on eBay by searching 5x114.3 12x1.5 64.1
$59 shipped for a pair, and he even sent them 2 day express from CA all the...
its pretty much flush. roughly -.6 front and -1.2 rear camber. a bit more camber all around and you could definitely go lower. at my ride height you dont have to get crazy with the negative camber.
what stiffness did you get? I would imagine getting the softest would be the best bet, because even if its the same stiffness as the OEM rubber, it should be quite a bit stiffer due to being completely filled, whereas the stock mount has voids that allow movement
TPMs are great. they can keep you from driving on a tire with low pressure which can damage the sidewalls and lead to complete tire failure (blow-out). that is, if you heed the warning.
just recently my tire light came on, and I quickly checked my pressures. turns out one of my tires...
I wonder if Honda covers resurfacing under warranty. At Nissan its a covered repair.
anyways, you may have luck with trying to get rid of the pulsation via the methods mentioned above, but if they're warped, they're warped. I've heard people say there's no such thing as a warped rotor - its...
I would expect a vacuum leak to set a code during idle, not WOT. seeing as how the code only sets during hard acceleration, seems like the tune just isn't quite right. OP confirmed what I was thinking. after the tune you should be good :)