NEED HELP! @webby @Dar-Dar
Can't get the nut to loosen on top of the clutch line, the metal line that runs along the fender. We're using vice grips to try to break the nut, but it's just stripping....
Questions about the DIY instructions:
1. Is there a worthwhile benefit to draining all the old DOT 3 fluid and replacing with DOT 4? Or just keep it simple and replace fluid the spills out?
2. If it's worthwhile to completely drain, where/how do you drain all the fluid from the system?
3. Any...
But will my car be driveable? Like mentioned, I have the hondata flash pro unit. But once I pay vit for the tune I'm guessing it will be a while before he gives me an actual tune...
Hello all, any threads exist with some good DIY instructions for this install? I hear it can be quite involved. I'm doing the install tomorrow, and have general/basic knowledge when it comes to cars. The clutch line needs replaced, which is my main concern...
Webby, I am going to install a PRL CAI and downpipe tomorrow. I have hondata on standby too, but I don't have a tune yet nor have I used it yet. After my install, what should I do? Based on what you're saying, my car won't run... As in won't be able to drive it?
I agree Bruce. I think everything is fine. I noticed performance increased a couple days after the oil change. Likely the thinner synthetic oil settling in and the break in stuff getting trapped in the oil filter. I'm going to do a Blackstone test on the amsoil in 3k. I used Mobil1 many years...
This is true. Just wondering how necessary. Also, I'd like to go turbo eventually...Does anyone know if the stand alone downpipe from full race is compatible with a turbo setup? I know the downpipe in their turbo kit is different from the stand alone downpipe they offer.
I see Full Race offers high temp coating for their downpipes. Anybody have experience with this? I believe it's a $120 option, not sure if it's needed or not. Maybe more important for forced induction setups..?