2012 Civic Audio Wiring Guide & Pinouts For Factory Radio

I created a thread called "2013 HU removal" with some pics.

Thanks to immajackuup for suggesting putting the LOC after the HU. The signal is much better than from behind the rear speakers. I also just used a simple LOC instead of the one with the "remote wire" which is useless if you don't attach the power wire to an ACC source so might as well run a ACC wire from the HU to the trunk for remote amp turn on.
 
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If you found a way to keep all your imid functions,please let us know.so far it's been a no go..
 
one quick question i have is, am i taping into the A24 amp mute wire (brown) or the A13 imput signal for amp switching on/off (white) for the remote wire for my aftermarket amp?.. I already have the LOC hooked up to my stock sub wires i just need to figure out where my remote wire goes!.. thanks guys
 
Hi this great information. In installing the upgraded amp and speakers, did you use connectors to tap into Audio Unit Connector E (8P) and C (14P) or did you tap into Stereo Amplifier Connectors A (24P) and B (18P). If you used connectors, where did you source these connectors from? I can only find Audio Unit Connectors A (24P), B (20P) and D (3P).

Cheers
 
Anyone know where to get wiring harnesses for pre and post amp connectors? Figured it'd be easier to get those two, splice RCAs into pre amp harness and run those to my amps then run aftermarket amp output back to stock post amp connector so i dont have to run new wires to all my speakers.

Main reason I want the harnesses for those points is so i dont have to cut any wires and if I ever need to take my aftermarket system out it makes that a whole lots easier too.

PS would love a source that ships to Canada or sells in Canada
 
Ok so I have a 2014 civic so. I did the install with the jl 700/5 and I'm unhappy with the lack of sound from the sub woofer. I also installed a loc still no better . And last but not least there is a terrible pop when shutting it off anyone have the same issue
 
I am installing a audio control Lc6i all the wires are coded correctly except on my car the lt front tweeter wires color are the same as the lt front door, pink and light green. The output plug off the factory amp has all the correct colors as stated. Is it safe to follow this pinout posted? Please help lol
 
The wires colors change through the connector in the doors. Post amp harness colours are correct. There should be a schematic somewhere that shows post amp wire colours and door and tweeter colours that change. Not sure which thread it is on tho
 
The wires colors change through the connector in the doors. Post amp harness colours are correct. There should be a schematic somewhere that shows post amp wire colours and door and tweeter colours that change. Not sure which thread it is on tho

Perfect! Yes it's on page 1 of this thread just wanted to clarify that they changwd colors but post amp colors were correct.
 
Yup! I had the same problem when I replaced the tweeters on my car

Maybe you can help me with another question if you dont mind. The lc6i will accept 6 channels. My initial thought after pm a few members on another board was as follows:
Main channel: front door speakers
2nd channel: front tweeters
rear channel: rear deck speakers
and sum the main and 2nd channels. Thoughts?
 
Maybe you can help me with another question if you dont mind. The lc6i will accept 6 channels. My initial thought after pm a few members on another board was as follows:
Main channel: front door speakers
2nd channel: front tweeters
rear channel: rear deck speakers
and sum the main and 2nd channels. Thoughts?
Im splicing RCAs to preamp and then running speaker wire from my amps output to the post amp harness
 
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Can you please tell me where the factory amp is located? Probably the same place in my 2014 im looking for it
 
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