2012 r18 turbo

lance weeden

New Member
5
0
houston, tx
Vehicle Model
civic, r18 motor
Body Style
sedan
Hi my name is lance, with the new release of the 2012 flash pro for r18 motors I finally can afford to turbo it lol. Been waiting for this moment for so long, so I need help building yall. I wanted to go tsi turbo kit but have waited long enough for the direct no mod bolt on for 2012 r18, and can't wait any longer. I have read that the 2011 full race turbo kit can bolt on to the 2012 with out any mods....is this true. I have tried contacting them, either still waiting on reply or I contacting them incorrectly. Either way that doesn't solve the step cold one spark plugs I am having trouble finding. I have read That the 2011 do not fit but luckily the injectors do so I only need to find spark plugs....any ideas? Second would be the exhaust, was going to go borla exhaust 2.5 inch with the tsi turbo, but if I have to go full race turbo I am going with their 3 inch exhaust. So question is does the 2011 full race 3 inch exhaust fit the 2012 with no mods?
Lol I keeping asking no mods cause I am currently sitting at 6gs for turbo doing it my self and that realy leaves me no room to have some one custom do somthing or even help build lol. (Yes I am asking for free help here) also notice in the full race page they mentioned slim fans, was sure if they where included or just the measurements are. If not what type of controller do I use?
Am I forgetting anything or suggestions of change?
Current turbo iteams:
http://www.full-race.com/store/efr-turbo-kit/honda-civic-fg-fa-r18-efr-turbo-kit.htm
http://www.full-race.com/store/accessories/full-race-vacuum-boost-block.html
http://www.full-race.com/store/exhaust-systems/honda-civic-si-fa-fg-full-race-exhaust.html
http://www.procivic.com/pages-produ...7:2dfbf493b3fea569603571002a2ebda1/index.html
http://www.procivic.com/pages-produ...4:34db2e5ded037fa80369b05338afebf1/index.html
http://www.procivic.com/pages-produ...5:ebe02ad40e7ffb4c5179d54789cb3f5d/index.html
http://www.procivic.com/pages-produ...1:be1cf4025b45187c5c67f5315c567623/index.html
http://www.procivic.com/pages-produ...9:fb2f24d797f2ba8fe8b2e7cb841199ae/index.html
http://www.procivic.com/pages-produ...1:f16a48aaca6caa9a3801f8af8247dc79/index.html
http://www.procivic.com/pages-produ...0:0bcd9219e06fbc79b2b92dab77d20727/index.html
 
Ok sorry about that thought it would post the pictures. But if any question one which ones can always click lol.
List:
Full race turbo kit
Vacuum block
3 inch exhaust
2 12 inch slim fans and mounts
410c injectors
265 lph fuel pump
Flash pro
Turbo timer
GREDDY boost control
transmission cooler kit
 
Are you automatic or manual. The 2006-2011 R18 motors are the same besides mounting positions. They spark plugs should be the same. Full race kit requires slim fans as their manifold sticks the turbo out a bit further. Also they have internal wastegate on their turbo kit. For direct bolt on exhaust you'll need the Full-Race exhaust. Also do you have a tuner picked out if not there's only 2 Id recommend
 
A lame auto, and from what I ve read from others the 2011 spark plugs don't fit. But no one has actual tried. Wasn't to worried about tune quite yet, I ve heard vipertunning but, there Is a lot to be done between there and now. And thank you for getting back with me.
 
Don't let the AT hold you back. @Nyghtstalkr has an auto and his build is pretty beasty.

How much power do you want to make? I know there is the JRSC kit and Kraftwerks apparently has their SC R18 kit available as well.
 
I getting manifold and in a year I have transmission work done I shooting for 300 hp at 10 psi. I have two friends they are sitting at 600 hp but they did bottom swap s to the k20. So if they can get 600 at low I believe I can get 300 low.
 
I getting manifold and in a year I have transmission work done I shooting for 300 hp at 10 psi. I have two friends they are sitting at 600 hp but they did bottom swap s to the k20. So if they can get 600 at low I believe I can get 300 low.

You're not getting 300whp @ 10 PSI unless you have a big turbo. Your friends pushing 600 whp with a K20 Swap ? im confused so they swapped the motor out to a k20z3? they're completely different motors once is designed to breath and make power (K) one is designed for economy and energy efficiency (R). You have an R series not going to breath the way a competition motor is designed and 300 WHP is the breaking limit for rods so unless your planning on changing pistons and rods your goal is unattainable. You'll Also need a much bigger turbo than most are using to get it at 10 Psi.
 
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PSI alone does not decide your power. Don't get hung up on something like "I want to run 10psi and get 300hp" because a larger turbo will flow more air than a smaller one at the same PSI resulting in completely different power levels. PSI is only one part of the equation.

Also consider your compressor and turbine A?R ratings. The A/R parameter has different effects on the compressor and turbine performance.

Compressor:
Compressor performance is comparatively insensitive to changes in A/R. Larger A/R housings are sometimes used to optimize performance of low boost applications, and smaller A/R are used for high boost applications. However, as this influence of A/R on compressor performance is minor, there are not A/R options available for compressor housings.


Turbine:

Turbine performance is greatly affected by changing the A/R of the housing, as it is used to adjust the flow capacity of the turbine. Using a smaller A/R will increase the exhaust gas velocity into the turbine wheel. This provides increased turbine power at lower engine speeds, resulting in a quicker boost rise. However, a small A/R also causes the flow to enter the wheel more tangentially, which reduces the ultimate flow capacity of the turbine wheel. This will tend to increase exhaust backpressure and hence reduce the engine's ability to "breathe" effectively at high RPM, adversely affecting peak engine power.

Comparing A/R quickly:

An engine using a smaller A/R turbine housing (0.63) thus biased more towards low-end torque and optimal boost response would be more "fun" to drive on the street. An engine using a larger A/R turbine housing (1.06) is biased towards peak horsepower, while sacrificing transient response and torque at very low engine speeds. You also get lots of turbo lag with this one but if you are maintaining high RPMs, like you would on a track, that's a better way to go.



For ease and affordability, if you would be happy in the mid 200's one of the S/C setups may be a better route to take. The bolt on Jackson Racing SC kit will put an AT civic at around 180hp at the wheels. That's stock SI territory. You are most likely currently getting around 110-115 at the wheels if you are lucky.
 
Wow that a lot to take in.....lol.....yes I plan doing engine internals, just not at first. And full race turbo is bigger than the tsi, why I am going with it. Just this year I am applying turbo, getting basic set up and car running. End goal is 300hp daily driver, why.....cause I want to, I know not realy a reason. But this is my first car and my only misson is to change every thing in that's factor. Would like to try and achieve 300hp at low psi to have a car with that has power but won't kill me at the pump. Plus if I don't have to spend money on a car note, why not put it into the car to make it more mine.
 
For 300hp DD, you honestly may be better off trading in your car and putting the turbo build money towards an Si. I hate to say it but it might be a better route overall. Much cheaper, easier, and reliable. Also the size of the A/T vs the manual makes placement of an intercooler difficult. On the SC kits the intercoolers only fit on the manual cars. The automatic sticks out too far unless there is some custom piping done. That said, the bolt on kits with stock exhaust and the intercooler/track pack are getting around 240hp. But that's on a manual trans car. The auto shouldn't hold you back from doing what you want though.

I've looked into this long and hard. I'd be happy around 200hp on mine. Enough to surprise stock or mildly tuned SI guys. Enough to make them think something is wrong with their car. hahahah.


You said your budget is $6k? You're looking at $4500 just for the turbo kit from Full Race. That's without exhaust, flash pro, tuning costs, engine mounts, and all sorts of other stuff like injectors, fuel pump, etc.... Flash pro, on sale, is at the cheapest $500. That only leaves you $1000 left for everything else. A full race exhaust is going to run you around $500 also. A reliable tune is at least $200. So $300 for injectors, fuel pump and some other odds and ends. An intake manifold will be necessary. You are most likely going to need something custom made, which is expensive. Even the Weapon-R 8th gen R18 manifold, if it fits, is close to $500.

Turbo kit: $4500
Exhaust: $500
FP: $500 if lucky
Intake manifold: $500

There is your budget, $6k, gone already. Thats without tax/shipping too! And you still need lots of supporting parts.

If you have not upgraded your wheels, tires, and suspension you are just going to be spinning those stock rubbers and making smoke.


That said, I ran KBB real quick and input a 2012 civic sedan with 30k miles on it in very good, not excellent condition.

Trade in to dealer values are:

EX-L (top trim level) - between $13-14K

LX (most common) - $11,500


So no matter what you have your trade in is about $12,000. That plus your $6k budget, which I think is probably going to be a little short, puts you at just shy of $20k. You can definitely find 2012 & 2013 Civic Si for less than 20. Some people are getting new 2015 Si for around $22.


I think you're going to find yourself way over your $6k budget for a turbo build. If you really have to have 300hp you may want to strongly consider changing cars. Mid 200's is definitely do-able but I think your budget is probably going to need to double.
 
It says he's from Houston though? Texas plate in his avatar.... I could be wrong.
 
whoops have threads confused that was the other dude. but yeah then switch over for the Si if power goals are that low
 
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