Amazon, Mobil 1 & Valvoline Oil Compared

sunofwolf said:
And why shouldn't the owner of the car-insurance pay for a new mail box that he ran over. It was actually three mail box's at one time in a row.
this happened two times in six months, the old mail box was there maybe 15 years. But your right the insurance shouldn't have to pay but the driver of the car, but in a way the driver did pay for the mail box because you have to have insurance here for $50,000 of property damage. Maine is rated last place in driving according to insurance company's-and they know 100% for sure:hyper::bananawhipdance::bananasplit:
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I hear ya. Just saying if a driver makes false representation to an insurance company there could be fraud involved. Sure, they need to settle claims in "good faith". But if a guy takes his car racing (like at the Ring for example) you often need to buy special track insurance for those occasions. I'm not even sure if my insurance carrier insures me during my days at the local track. There might be some "exclusions" in the policy, ya know? But in general you don't tell your life insurance agent (as an example) "I don't smoke or drink" then go out and party every night. The fraud just might catch up to that person. Know what I mean?
 
The only thing i know for sure is i would be a weekend drop in at best. My new job won't let me take unpaid leave for anything and i can't take paid leave for the first year...new job problems, at least its ok money
 
Bruce Bartlow said:
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I hear ya. Just saying if a driver makes false representation to an insurance company there could be fraud involved. Sure, they need to settle claims in "good faith". But if a guy takes his car racing (like at the Ring for example) you often need to buy special track insurance for those occasions. I'm not even sure if my insurance carrier insures me during my days at the local track. There might be some "exclusions" in the policy, ya know? But in general you don't tell your life insurance agent (as an example) "I don't smoke or drink" then go out and party every night. The fraud just might catch up to that person. Know what I mean?
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its just a stupid mail box:party:
 
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bauer311 said:
The only thing i know for sure is i would be a weekend drop in at best. My new job won't let me take unpaid leave for anything and i can't take paid leave for the first year...new job problems, at least its ok money
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That's good information, thanks @bauer311! Really. While i've been dying to come out.... for others it's a stretch this year. So we'll play it by ear for another month or two and see what happens. Not lookin' terribly good. But we'll make it happen eventually, no worries.

Appreciate the update, thank you!
 
I would use Honda's recommend advice and not use schaeffers oil also too expensive-I am not saying its bad oil just don't see it any where I shop either., I use vavoline napa same oil as their branded oil but $5 more. 17$ on sale still. and don't use a cheap filter-I use a Napa platinum-which is $5 right now a extreme cheap price-never lower.:paper: But I like these oil test. I also think Pennzoil Platinum is just a fancy label and didn't like to see tiny black spec's on the bottom of oil bottle. He also needs to do more 0-20 and 5-20 tests, the oil Honda's now use.
 
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sunofwolf said:
I would use Honda's recommend advice and not use schaeffers oil also too expensive-I am not saying its bad oil just don't see it any where I shop either., I use vavoline napa same oil as their branded oil but $5 more. 17$ on sale still. and don't use a cheap filter-I use a Napa platinum-which is $5 right now a extreme cheap price-never lower.:paper: But I like these oil test. I also think Pennzoil Platinum is just a fancy label and didn't like to see tiny black spec's on the bottom of oil bottle. He also needs to do more 0-20 and 5-20 tests, the oil Honda's now use.
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How'd that Napa platinum do in the SAE J806 and/or SAE J1858?
 
There are two main types of filters for passenger cars and trucks: Full Flow and the less common Bypass, which is typically reserved for long haul diesel trucks. The latter can filter out most debris down to the 1 micron level... pretty impressive.

And that's the point of a filter, isn't it? How well it traps engine damaging particles. If you see test results it'd be something like (First Pass) 99.7% of 40 micron particles, 60% of 20 micron particles and 40% of 10 micron particles... or something like that.

Unfortunately, engine tolerances -- like the space between the piston ring and the cylinder are a lot less than that, and can only be filtered using a Bypass type.

Anyway, without getting too deep into the science of oil filtration, I have opened up, weighed and analyzed the SAE performance of a variety of FF filters. They're all about the same in terms of performance.

But, I particularly like the following types in terms of how they're made -- at least I did 7 - 8 years ago when I did the study -- although this is hardly a complete list of all the good ones out there.

1) WIX

2) Amsoil (made by Wix, Donaldson and Baldwin depending on size... all popular makers of heavy duty truck filters)

3) Pure One Plus (Purolator) is a highly efficient filter. But the other 3 mentioned here are structurally better/stronger.

4) Mobil 1

The only one I can definitely speak against is the FRAM. Total garbage. The Fram Extra Guard/Dura Guard (or it's various iterations) are clearly better, even though I wouldn't use that one either. Check out the YouTube vids for more current information on Fram, etc.

The #2 story (link below from BITOG) was pretty typical, blowing up under high pressure. Not sure if anything has changed in the last 10 years. But if you ever take one apart you'll see how cheaply they're made. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=318018

Keep in mind that those made by Mobil 1 and Amsoil are often intended to be used in conjunction with extended oil changes. That's why they're often built better in the first place.
 
Bruce Bartlow said:
There are two main types of filters for passenger cars and trucks: Full Flow and the less common Bypass, which is typically reserved for long haul diesel trucks. The latter can filter out most debris down to the 1 micron level... pretty impressive.

And that's the point of a filter, isn't it? How well it traps engine damaging particles. If you see test results it'd be something like (First Pass) 99.7% of 40 micron particles, 60% of 20 micron particles and 40% of 10 micron particles... or something like that.

Unfortunately, engine tolerances -- like the space between the piston ring and the cylinder are a lot less than that, and can only be filtered using a Bypass type.

Anyway, without getting too deep into the science of oil filtration, I have opened up, weighed and analyzed the SAE performance of a variety of FF filters. They're all about the same in terms of performance.

But, I particularly like the following types in terms of how they're made -- at least I did 7 - 8 years ago when I did the study -- although this is hardly a complete list of all the good ones out there.

1) WIX

2) Amsoil (made by Wix, Donaldson and Baldwin depending on size... all popular makers of heavy duty truck filters)

3) Pure One Plus (Purolator) is a highly efficient filter. But the other 3 mentioned here are structurally better/stronger.

4) Mobil 1

The only one I can definitely speak against is the FRAM. Total garbage. The Fram Extra Guard/Dura Guard (or it's various iterations) are clearly better, even though I wouldn't use that one either. Check out the YouTube vids for more current information on Fram, etc.

The #2 story (link below from BITOG) was pretty typical, blowing up under high pressure. Not sure if anything has changed in the last 10 years. But if you ever take one apart you'll see how cheaply they're made. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=318018

Keep in mind that those made by Mobil 1 and Amsoil are often intended to be used in conjunction with extended oil changes. That's why they're often built better in the first place.
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Thoughts on Bosch and K&N?
 
squiggy said:
Thoughts on Bosch and K&N?
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Not much... except both are made (of used to be) made by Champion, same producer Purolator. I always thought that K&N was overpriced relative to what you got. In the end there are only about 5 or 6 different manufacturers compared to the dozens of brands out there. So they are more similar than dissimilar.
 
Of course, Bosch is a German company... but they have a U.S. company (either Champion or Purolator) produce the Bosch branded filter.
 
webby said:
another round of testing oil


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aT2qa-2TuLA
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Here's a bit of trivia:

One of the really interesting things about M1 motor oil.... even though they still claim extended oil change capabilities (or "annual" in some cases) somewhere back in the 80's or 90's they dropped the actual verbiage of a "25,000 or 1-year" warranty. Only Amsoil continued the tradition of that particular guarantee, the only one to make that assurance.

... i'm just not sure what that guarantee is worth anymore.

To me it's a question of value. Dollar for dollar, I like the Pennzoil Ultra Plat in the $6.00/quart price area. Or the regular Pennzoil for $5.00 or less at WalMart or online.

Also hard to beat is M1 when Costco offers $10/off a case of 6.

Rather than getting too wrapped up in oil quality, i'd rather buy the best one for the money and change it more often.
 
mySIck said:
I have always used the Honda filter (Honeywell). What is your thought on them?
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Tricky question. Not sure what's been happening with Honeywell lately, or what is now Allied Signal. What other filters does Honeywell make? Not many. One is the Pennzoil brand... and those are not that good. So in that sense the Honda filter might be on the cheaper side.

Supporting that theory? We've all seen Honda discounting their oil filters to about the $6.00/ea price, even these days. Which is strange because it means the OEM product is cheaper than many knock-offs. What does that tell you? But I don't have any hard data for you.

In the end the OEM filters are probably fine under normal loads. If on the other hand your question is "what about sustained high-RPM stress" I might have a concern. My advice is that you'd better not be exceeding the OEM redline with Flash Pro or anything. Because if the filter fails under that scenario (like it does with other cheaper filters) that would be Honda's 'out', right?

Personally I don't buy full flow oil filters for their filtration ability. I buy them to provide a basic level of protection... but more importantly to hang tough and not disintegrate under stress or old age. That's why I buy the old line companies like Wix, Hastings and Donaldson. Those are companies who have a large heavy duty truck customer case. As such, I believe those who buy WIX car filters (for example) enjoy the benefits of production geared predominantly towards the heavy duty segment, and is also less reliant on automotive-related revenues or cutthroat competition where price is too often the only determinant.

At least that's my theory. And both the structural integrity we see evident in those filters -- as well as the performance data -- support that theory.

Check out BITCG. WIX has a fine reputation. Here's the 9th gen filter on Amazon:

Amazon product
View: https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-57356XP-Spin-Filter/dp/B00C5SZN9S/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2UW0D04OKLD1L&keywords=wix+oil+filter&qid=1556498198&s=gateway&sprefix=WIX+oil+filt%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-5


Wow... just checked price. Bought a case of 12 a few years ago for about $6.00/each. Now they're $10.00. $%*$*. Getting more and more difficult to buy quality.

Good luck, amigos.
 
That oil filter is Pre order :hmmm?:. Wonder if they made changes to it?

And I am revving my car out much higher than Honda set the rev limiter too.
 
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