Amp recommendations

CNelms

CNelms

Well-Known Member
47
21
Hey guys.

I use 2 alpine type R's and it is currently wired to a hifonic brutus 1000.1 well today i smelt the amp, always super hot, and it will now come out of protect mode so i guess i probably killed it. I am going to try to get it going but if i cant I was thinking about getting the hifonic 2000.1 but thought before i did i would ask for some recommendations to see what everyone is running. Also take into account that the amp is on the back of the box and it is custom made for the car and is a pretty tight fit so not much air gets back there. Also any suggestions to get air back there outside of keeping the seat down let me know
 
Pics of how it’s setup now? Amp is pressed to the back of the seat?
 
unfortunately i do not have any pics and i am at work. It does have a few inches from the seat, the box still has about 6 inches on my rubber trunk mat, the box has a roughly 10x5 gap on the top right so air can go behind it but im sure it doesnt help much. this is a link to the box http://www.zenclosures.com/2006-2012-Honda-Civic-Sedan-4door-Sub-Box-p/06civicsedan.htm . I ordered it for my 2008 4 door and it fits near perfect just a little gap on the top left and right of the box
 
Yeah that looks pretty tight. Does it have any room above the box that an amp could be mounted to? I also don’t know what your wiring is like. Do you have much excess at all to move the amp to a different location, or you’d have to run all new lines? I’ve done an amp under my drivers seat before on a past car. I don’t know how much room there is on the 9th seats.
 
i didnt do the install but looking at it the guy ran everything pretty tight i guess to make it look cleaner. there is zero space above the box. The box stops going back because of the top. I feel like if i went to the 2000 watt i wouldnt have the heat issue as much. The power draw is probably killer at that much though and i already have to basically turn them off at night so my lights dont flicker
 
Still trying to figure out what to do with the lights cutting out so much. people have a lot of suggestions but idk what would actually help. Looked at kinetik batteries but idk if they are going to last in a daily driver. im sure i wont ever actually fix it completely but my battery is 5 years old and i am trying to fix this while i replace it
 
so this morning i left work and it was fine. Had the subs cranked for a good 20 minutes before taking a phone call. I took the call and while doing so i got on a back road and flipped on my high beams. Once i got off the phone the amp was in protect. I am not sure if it just happened to cut off then or if cutting the highs on stopped it from receiving enough power for a second and it cut off. Taking it to the installer tomorrow i guess
 
I used SonicElectronix to quickly look up both amps, the one you are running and the one you are thinking about upgrading too. Both amps are not fan cooled, so it looks like it cools itself by radiation. This may be one of your problems with the tight space. Back in the day I had 2 memphis amps 1500w and a 500w both were fan cooled and were also placed on a rack above the sub box, the most it had was 4 inches of clearance on each side.

I would also suggest doing the big 3 wiring upgrade if you havent already, and the bigger amp you were thinking too... there is a warning to run at least a 160 amp alternator.
 
Supposedly others have said the ecu will override higher powered alternators in the 9th gen civics.

“
I'm running a 300 amp alternator from Singer Alternators and been running a system on it and my xs power batteries for almost a year now with no issues. All you have to do is run an older style charging system and bypass the cars computer (canbus) completely. When replacing your alternator you will no longer use the data wire connected to your old one. You will have to run a new wire to a switched ignition source so the alternator knows to turn on and off with the car. The old wire just remains unplugged, taped mine up with electrical tape to protect it. Basically my cars computer (canbus) thinks there's no charging system. Imid tells me to check my charging system every time I start the car but I just clear the message.

Also the stock battery is junk, cant believe Honda went so cheap on them.”
 
So update time. I went ahead and got my battery checked and it was bad which i kinda expected. I changed the battery and messed with the ground which seemed to fix it. I did still have it overheat about 50 minutes into a drive and it shut off for a couple minutes before it cooled down and started back up. I thought about getting a couple of these fans https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5283_PAC-CF-1.html not sure how well they work however.
 
What is the model number of your subs? or if you have the specs that would be better. Also do you know how you wired up the subs to the amp? I am asking because I want to double check your sub to amp wiring and see how many ohms. If its not wired up right it can cause the amp to go into protect mode.
 
I believe its SWR-10D2 but it has been a few years since i got them. They are running at 2 ohm each and bridged at the amp. I have had them for like 3 years and never had issues with it until now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top