Bypass Premium Factory Amp

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seamill5

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Ok...so I've been looking all over this site and the other 9th and can't seem to find info on what I'm looking to do. What I want to do is bypass the factory amp for the fronts and backs, and leave the mid-woofer and tweeters to the factory amp. How would I go about doing this? Grab the wires before they hit the factory amp and route them to the aftermarket amp? Any sort of harness/adapter I can use so I won't have to cut any of the OEM wires? Any help is appreciated. Thank you!

Oh and FYI:
2013 Civic Si without Navi
LOC into rear mid-woofer, powering an Infinity Basslink
 
You can't unless you replace the factory head unit. The signal going to your factory amp from your factory head is not a normal signal. I think its called balanced differential inputs. In short in order to feed the aftermarket amp directly from the head you would have to replace the head.
 
Bulkybear said:
You can't unless you replace the factory head unit. The signal going to your factory amp from your factory head is not a normal signal. I think its called balanced differential inputs. In short in order to feed the aftermarket amp directly from the head you would have to replace the head.
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Ok. So if I wanted to stick with the stock headunit (which I do) and an aftermaket amp I'd need to go with something like an LCQ-1?
 
Whether you use an LCQ-1 or something even more sophisticated like a jl cleansweep or Rockford fosgate 3sixty you will have to grab you signal after the factory amp, you won't get a pre amp signal with the stock head. Not sure if its only because of balanced differential inputs or if these cars, like my charger, have some sort of canbus system preventing it. I basically found out it wasn't possible with the stock head and wanted to retain factory imid, Bluetooth, and steering wheel controls so I just grabbed my signal after the amp and called it a day.
 
Bulkybear said:
Whether you use an LCQ-1 or something even more sophisticated like a jl cleansweep or Rockford fosgate 3sixty you will have to grab you signal after the factory amp, you won't get a pre amp signal with the stock head. Not sure if its only because of balanced differential inputs or if these cars, like my charger, have some sort of canbus system preventing it. I basically found out it wasn't possible with the stock head and wanted to retain factory imid, Bluetooth, and steering wheel controls so I just grabbed my signal after the amp and called it a day.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thanks for the info. I came from an H/K Mini Cooper system so I'm no stranger to difficult systems. One last question for ya. Any suggestions on where to grab the speakers post-amp? Just at the doors?
 
Its pure preference up to a point if your doing a complete setup with new fulls, tweets, and subs. But for a sub amp I grab the sub channel from the speaker side in the trunk. For fulls if your replacing all 4 of them I would look up a color code and pull signal from the connector outputting from the amp. All of the color code charts I've seen for our car is post amp.
 
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