Camber kit suggestions

JayFB2

Well-Known Member
93
36
California
Vehicle Model
EX
Body Style
Sedan
Looking to get a new camber kit reason being i got new wheels and have to run little more camber to fit because i am a bit lower and my camber arms i have now are maxed out, which camber kit would be my best bet skunk 2 or DME????
 
The quality of Spc tends to be brought up the most. People tend to say they're made very well/or the best.
 
Looking to get a new camber kit reason being i got new wheels and have to run little more camber to fit because i am a bit lower and my camber arms i have now are maxed out, which camber kit would be my best bet skunk 2 or DME????

The quality of Spc tends to be brought up the most. People tend to say they're made very well/or the best.

@JayFB2 when you say "maxed out" you mean the arms are set as short as they can go to give you as much negative camber as possible with them?
I just recently bought camber arms for my coilover install and I had a look at a few different brands. I'm not sure which brand has the biggest range of adjustment.
I went with the skunk2 arms because they seem to be one of the best built/quality and now that they are installed I can see that they have a good range of adjustability.
I looked at the SPC arms. They are less expensive than the skunk2 but nowhere near the same quality and I didn't check the length/adjustability of them.
 
@JayFB2I went with the skunk2 arms because they seem to be one of the best built/quality......I looked at the SPC arms. They are less expensive than the skunk2 but nowhere near the same quality.

Funny you say this as Skunk2 camber arm bushings have been HORRIBLE in the past years.

For your sakes, hopefully they have gotten their act together.
 
@JayFB2 when you say "maxed out" you mean the arms are set as short as they can go to give you as much negative camber as possible with them?
I just recently bought camber arms for my coilover install and I had a look at a few different brands. I'm not sure which brand has the biggest range of adjustment.
I went with the skunk2 arms because they seem to be one of the best built/quality and now that they are installed I can see that they have a good range of adjustability.
I looked at the SPC arms. They are less expensive than the skunk2 but nowhere near the same quality and I didn't check the length/adjustability of them.
Yes thats what i meant when i said maxed Out and yes i need somthing that can give a good amount of negative camber
 
I have to say, I've got the Skunk2 arms from a couple years ago and haven't had any issues yet. I do see the gaps between the bushing and the knuckle in the rear which is supposed to cause knocking and stuff. I should shim it with some fiber rings but eh, don't fix it if its not broken. That said, I would steer anyone with the budget towards the SPC arms.

I honestly though I would have had issues with the skunk2 arms by now. I lubed, greased, and put anti-sieze on everything and used all new hardware at every point though. It might be prep work that makes the different more than anything. I did notice that a lot of the hardware tolerances were very very tight and the parts tended to rub on each other a lot. Once it was all lubed and anti-sieze applied everything went together much easier. The bushings are replaceable on the Skunk2 arms. I know they should be garbage but personal experience says otherwise.

Prep prep prep. Just like paint. Or just buy the SPCs and be worry free. hahahah
 
I looked at the SPC arms. They are less expensive than the skunk2 but nowhere near the same quality and I didn't check the length/adjustability of them.
SPC quality > Skunk2. I don't think Skunk2 follows the ISO 9001 quality standard. SPC does. It is a company that supplies more car parts for many different models compared to Skunk2.

Just because it looks good cosmetically, doesn't mean that it is a quality part.
 
SPC quality > Skunk2. I don't think Skunk2 follows the ISO 9001 quality standard. SPC does. It is a company that supplies more car parts for many different models compared to Skunk2.

Just because it looks good cosmetically, doesn't mean that it is a quality part.
Everyone has a right to their opinion @Dar-Dar. I'm not sure what the ISO 9001 quality standard has to do with what components are on each of the camber arms.
I had a look at both arms and I think the skunk2 uses better parts. For one thing the spherical joint compared to a polyurethane bushing for the end that connects to the wheel is better IMO. I also thought that the finish of the actual skunk2 arm was better. I didn't get a chance to analyze the alloy used on each arm so I don't know which arm material is superior.
Just because SPC supplies more car parts for many different models doesn't mean they make a better quality product. I'm sure it helps with the cost of their product but that's it.
skunk2 only sells/makes parts for specific cars. They are more of a specialty product company.
 
Thanks for everyones input finally got my camber arms went with skunk 2 cause thats what i got from my sponsor so we will see how it goes i will let you guys know how i like them!
 
Shim the ends where it attaches to the knuckle. There is a gap between the bushing and the metal. Also use anti-size on everything. Especially the pin with the c-clips through the "car" side of the arm that attaches to the body. That thing is stiff and can tear the upper bushing. Same with lubing the bolt through the other end. Lube all the threaded bits.

I know a ton of people had issues with their S2 arms but I have not and I took those precautions.


This is a long discussion as far as anti-size and mixing multiple metals goes but the "best" anti-size you can get for this particular application, including the threaded ends, is a nickel based A/S compound. You are putting a threaded steel end into an aluminum "arm" in an area that sees a lot of heat, dirt, and moisture.

You should look for either:

Permatex 77134 Nickel Anti-Sieze Lubricant

or 77124

Or a Zinc base. Loctite makes one.
Loctite Zinc Anti-Seize is #39901

Stay away from the copper based stuff. The real issue with the copper is that it provides good electrical conductivity. This is the galvanic corrosion issue with copper A/S between steel and aluminum components. That sounds like a camber arm doesn't it?
 
Shim the ends where it attaches to the knuckle. There is a gap between the bushing and the metal. Also use anti-size on everything. Especially the pin with the c-clips through the "car" side of the arm that attaches to the body. That thing is stiff and can tear the upper bushing. Same with lubing the bolt through the other end. Lube all the threaded bits.

I know a ton of people had issues with their S2 arms but I have not and I took those precautions.


This is a long discussion as far as anti-size and mixing multiple metals goes but the "best" anti-size you can get for this particular application, including the threaded ends, is a nickel based A/S compound. You are putting a threaded steel end into an aluminum "arm" in an area that sees a lot of heat, dirt, and moisture.

You should look for either:

Permatex 77134 Nickel Anti-Sieze Lubricant

or 77124

Or a Zinc base. Loctite makes one.
Loctite Zinc Anti-Seize is #39901

Stay away from the copper based stuff. The real issue with the copper is that it provides good electrical conductivity. This is the galvanic corrosion issue with copper A/S between steel and aluminum components. That sounds like a camber arm doesn't it?
@Nix, did you know that skunk2 has changed the design of their rear camber arms? They have a spherical joint now instead of a bushing. Have a look......

http://store.skunk2.com/2012-2013-rear-camber-kit-new-heim-joint-design-998.html
 
This is a link to dars godspeed arm troubles. My S2 arms have similar gaps. Yours might also. Just be ready to add a couple washers and you shouldn't have any issues down the road.

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/godspeed-camber-arm-owners-beware.9011/#post-228361
Now I see why @Dar-Dar was so upset with me recommending the skunk arms. I wish he had included that link you posted @Nix. Then I would have known what he was talking about.
Hopefully the new design on the skunk2's with eliminate the issues that people were having in the past.
 
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nice! I wish they would just sell that new "head" so you could retrofit the old ones! I bet they won't though.....
 
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