Flip Key Thread for 9th Gen

hotdogjohnny

Well-Known Member
1,378
755
USA
Vehicle Model
Civic Si
Body Style
Sedan
Since I saw scattered references to transponders and flip keys, I thought I'd start a thread. I just bought a flip key kit on ebay, shipped from China for $11.00. I took it to Honda and had the key laser cut (free, Thanks Hamilton Honda), but the ignition does not see the "key" and I get a green key symbol and the car cuts out once started.

What I bought:

Flip Key.jpg


In the center of the next pic is the guts of the oem key. That goes into the new flip key.

OEM Key.jpg


What I can't figure out is why the new setup is not seen as the old key, unless the transponder is NOT in the three-button assembly, and is sitting at the head of the old key case, where the metal key starts out of the case.

Can anyone tell me more about this? all Honda said was that the new key may need to be programmed. But it is not really a new key. It's the OEM guts in a new case.
 
When I tried the flip key a while back, I found that the new key blank was longer, this moving the transponder too far away from the ignition hole. I had the se problems as you. The only fix I know is re-soldering the transponder to a wire so it can be placed closer to the front of the key case and get within the correct distance of the ignition.
 
^ this... it's supposedly too far away...and needs moved.
 
Monk Yes and the car started but immediately cut out with a green light of a key flashing.
 
Last edited:
i got mine working with a few speed bumps,

  • the key blank was just barely too big to get all the way into the lock so the locksmith had to lightly sand both sides to take down some material after cutting
  • the transponder either needs to be relocated or another one used, the locksmith who cut and programmed actually had a spare valet transponder that he programmed and put that in the key instead of messing with desoldering the remote
  • the space for the remote package is bigger than the remote package so a couple pieces of foam tape on the back of the remote package stopped the rattling
 
When I tried the flip key a while back, I found that the new key blank was longer, this moving the transponder too far away from the ignition hole. I had the se problems as you. The only fix I know is re-soldering the transponder to a wire so it can be placed closer to the front of the key case and get within the correct distance of the ignition.
Do you know where in the 3button unit the transponder sits? I pulled it apart but couldn't tell. Probably the largest piece on the circuit board, the black rectangle at the top of the picture.
hevy9uvy.jpg
 
That's the one.
Am I correct that a transponder is fed a signal from the ignition, needs no battery of its own, so the only reason it's on the board is for convenience? In other words, it's not wired into the circuit? If so, I could just de-solder it and put it up in the front of the housing. There's room on the right side of the flip case. BTW, I held the remote unit against the empty flip case where the oem key would be (closer to the ignition), turned the flip key in the ignition and it saw the transponder . . . car started properly. So thanks to all who said it was a distance issue.
 
I have no idea. I've just researched it enough to know which chip is the transponder. Since there are wires attached to it, I assume that it needs power from the battery in the key.
 
Last edited:
I have no idea. I've just researched it enough to know which chip is the transponder. Since there are wires attached to it, I assume that it needs power from the battery in the key.
I think I'll test it by taking the remote apart, which separates it from the battery. Then I'll take the circuitboard to the car and try to start it with the board in position where the oem transponder would be. If the ignition sees it, and car starts, I'll have the answer.
 
Last edited:
i take it you cant get your car to start or stay running, and have a blinking green key light on the dash? The issue is that the transponder chip is moved too far away in this ebay key, you have two options depending on how you want to fix it.

Option 1
Take a knife or saw to your valet key, cut the grey plastic off and find this thing in the middle
60449-albums5749-picture43642.jpg


60449-albums5749-picture43643.jpg


60449-albums5749-picture43644.jpg


and put it up near the base of the new key

Option 2
Remove the transponder from the original key board with a soldering iron (black rectangle)
IMG_0199.jpg


attach two wires to the ends of the transponder and the pads where it used to be connected and extend it out
IMG_0232.jpg


and put it up near the base of the key
IMG_0239.jpg
 
Ignition transponder does not need constant power but it still needs power to send the electromagnet signal for the anti theft module.
 
Ignition transponder does not need constant power but it still needs power to send the electromagnet signal for the anti theft module.

It actually doesn't require power, it's wired into the board simply because they can have more copper and thus a bigger antenna for it
 
It actually doesn't require power, it's wired into the board simply because they can have more copper and thus a bigger antenna for it
the car started with just a circuit board pressed up against the new Flipkey case where the oem transponder would ordinarily be. I gather from that that it does not need power. I also have taken a picture of the circuit board with some back lighting. Tell me what you think of it. It looks more like an antenna than a power supply, as it runs the periphery of the board.



yhy5yqu6.jpg
 
Last edited:
The transponder can exist separate from the board but range for both the remote and transponder may suffer

hotdogjohnny it looks like its built into the ground trace for the remote, it's already a decent amount of copper present and they didn't have no add anymore
 
The transponder can exist separate from the board but range for both the remote and transponder may suffer

hotdogjohnny it looks like its built into the ground trace for the remote, it's already a decent amount of copper present and they didn't have no add anymore
ethlar and ADExternal: So, since I have it all apart anyway . . . I might as well wire it to take advantage of whatever Honda had in mind. I'll post up the results.
Thanks everyone.
 
Last edited:
Some people have submerged their keys without issues, I wouldn't recommend it
 
Back
Top