Fuse Tapping Not Working as Intended

Discussion in 'Navigation, Security Systems, & Electrical' started by Velox, Apr 11, 2013.

  1. Velox

    Velox Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    48
    Location:
    Naples, FL
    Vehicle Model:
    2013 Civic EX
    Body Style:
    Coupe
    Hey there,

    I'm new to this forum and to owning a Civic. I plan to introduce myself in the intro section after I finish a few more things with my new car.

    However, I'm encountering a problem with wiring my LEDs. I'm using the fuse box to avoid splicing into any wiring for the sake of my warranty (I can undo a fuse box installation fairly quickly if I need to take it in or something) but I'm having a hard time wiring it so my LEDs only have power when the key is turned.

    I have tapped into fuse 12, 27, and even 11 (front acc, middle console acc, and moonroof) in attempts to only gain power when the key is turned. However, my LEDs are still drawing power from these fuse locations when the key is not turned. The actual accessory is not, though - only the LEDs are drawing power. For example, when tapped into my moonroof fuse the key still must be turned for the moonroof to work, but the LEDs will draw power out of the same fuse port when the key is not in. This may be completely normal but I'm rather new to fuse boxes and may be overlooking something simple. I assume I'm doing something incorrectly because my hardware appears to be operating correctly. I am using an "add a fuse" device and it's plugged into the fuse box how most guides demonstrate.

    I'm rather new to working on car electronics but other hobbies have taught me a good amount about wiring and electricity in general. I've read many guides on how to wire LEDs but I'm still missing something that is really going to create an inconvenience.

    Any help would be great. I've tried experimenting with various options trying to make sure I'm not forgetting something, but I'm hesitant to try too much in case I damage my wiring or any active circuits.
     
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  2. webby
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  3. AlienPrime

    AlienPrime Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle Model:
    Civic Si HFP
    Body Style:
    2 door Coupe
    Fuse #23 bro :) and make sure you're using each fuse slot on the tap in priority order of wiring :)
     
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  4. AlienPrime

    AlienPrime Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle Model:
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    Body Style:
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    for example....

    [​IMG]
    the one top the top is the priority then followed by secondary in which you can add a larger fuse ampacity :)
     
  5. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    i think you might have been tapping things before their switches in the electrical system, i dont have a 9th gen wire diagram to be sure but that could explain why you were getting constant power
     
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  6. Velox

    Velox Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    48
    Location:
    Naples, FL
    Vehicle Model:
    2013 Civic EX
    Body Style:
    Coupe
    I was not expecting so many helpful posts so quickly. Thanks, guys!

    I used fuse #23 and it worked just as I hoped - I'm only getting power when the key is turned. Thank you for the suggestion.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
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  7. Pauly99to17

    Pauly99to17 Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle Model:
    2012 LX
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    Yup...fuse 23 is the one for fun...
     
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  8. AlienPrime

    AlienPrime Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    Body Style:
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    certainly :) It's ignition powered :)

    If you'd like, you can use another slot, but you'd need to add a main power switch to turn off everytime lol
     
  9. S54flexin

    S54flexin Well-Known Member

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    Anyone know the fuse that is on when the door opens, but turns off when the key is turned to on->ignition?
     
  10. webby
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    It may be #28 under the hood... or #34/35 inside the cabin.
     
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  11. AlienPrime

    AlienPrime Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    yep #28 un der the hood is right.

    #35 is for the ambient light kit that honda sells :p
     
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  12. S54flexin

    S54flexin Well-Known Member

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    I tested fuse #35 but there's no power when the door is open and no key in the ignition. Here's what I'm planning on doing: I bought ebay illuminated door sills; I'm planning on tapping fuse #14 with add-a-circuit, and then tap into the ground(green) wire in the door jam button so it turns off when I close the door and turn the key. I tested with a multimeter and it seems to work, but I wanted to see what you guys think. Thanks.
     
  13. AlienPrime

    AlienPrime Well-Known Member

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    not sure i would go this route... i would do the same as user amomcivic did and make it so that ground is switched. since in DC power when you cut the ground, power is taken away because you lose continuity.

    just my 2c tho :)
     
  14. S54flexin

    S54flexin Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    I see where you're going with this. So basically if the ground is cut, power to fuse #14 will be cut also? What if I tap into one of the empty fuse slots like fuse #13? But the slot is crossed out on the diagram so I don't know what amp fuse to put in there. Any ideas? I'll look into the switched ground.
     
  15. S54flexin

    S54flexin Well-Known Member

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    Anyone know how to figure out what amp fuse to put in these fuse slots? I tested them and there is power.

    *Pic is from another user on this site*
     

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    Last edited: Jul 22, 2013
  16. webby
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    All depends on how much power the items are using. Do you have a list of how many bulbs/wattage each one is rated for?
     
  17. S54flexin

    S54flexin Well-Known Member

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    I don't, I just bought them from ebay. They look like authentic door sills that illuminate on all 4 sills. They are just leds that need to be powered. I'm thinking 7.5-10 amps should be ok?
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2013
  18. webby
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  19. S54flexin

    S54flexin Well-Known Member

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    That looks good! I'm guessing 5 amps would suffice since the 2 back sills would probably draw the same amount of power as the front 2 sills?
     
  20. webby
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    I would imagine yes
     

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