GodBoner's SCAA Street Class Build

GodBoner

GodBoner

Well-Known Member
32
19
Charleston, SC
Vehicle Model
Si
Body Style
Coupe
Title says it all. Will be a slow build toward a SCAA street class car setup.
Stock Class Rules

Intended upgrades:

24 MM Progress Adjustable RSB
HPS silicone intake tube
K&N Filter
Autox wheels / tires (havent narrowed down anything yet)
Custom interior (aesthetics / thinking leather $1300 or redo in all black cloth)
JDM steering wheel emblem
Debadge rear Civic and SI
SiriMoto Phase 2 Strut Bar (aesthetics)
Billet Dip Stick (aesthetics)
Battery Tie Down (aesthetics)
AS1 Line Tint (aesthetics)
Invidia Cat Back
 
Last edited:
Looks good so far. Just be careful with the strut bar, I believe that will actually bump you out of street and into the next higher class.
 
I'd read over the wheel/tire section really closely if you're staying in stock class. There are a number of rules regarding width of wheel, offset, as well as tire tread wear rating requirements. Looks like you should be ok on the sway.

13.7 ANTI-ROLL (SWAY) BARS

A. Substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-roll bar and supporting hardware (brackets, endlinks, bushings, etc.) is permitted. The use of any bushing material is permitted. A bushing may be implemented as a bear- ing.

B. Substitution, addition, or removal of anti-roll bars may serve no other purpose than that of an anti-roll bar.

C. No modification to the body, frame, or other components to accommodate anti-roll bar addition or substitution is allowed except for the drilling of holes for mounting bolts. Non-standard lateral members which connect between the brackets for the bar are not permitted.
 
webby said:
I'd read over the wheel/tire section really closely if you're staying in stock class. There are a number of rules regarding width of wheel, offset, as well as tire tread wear rating requirements. Looks like you should be ok on the sway.

13.7 ANTI-ROLL (SWAY) BARS

A. Substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-roll bar and supporting hardware (brackets, endlinks, bushings, etc.) is permitted. The use of any bushing material is permitted. A bushing may be implemented as a bear- ing.

B. Substitution, addition, or removal of anti-roll bars may serve no other purpose than that of an anti-roll bar.

C. No modification to the body, frame, or other components to accommodate anti-roll bar addition or substitution is allowed except for the drilling of holes for mounting bolts. Non-standard lateral members which connect between the brackets for the bar are not permitted.
Click to expand...


Yeah the wheel and tires are pretty strict for stock class. My initial thought is drop to a 17" wheel and run a bigger tire (245....) to compensate for overall diameter and not mess with my gearing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nix
I run stock or "street" class as they are calling it now. You can go up or down 1" in diameter from OEM but you can't change width as far as I know.

Also I don't know where the silicon intake hose falls for this as well. I have one as well but I'm probably going to switch back to the factory piece on race days so I don't get bumped.
 
13.4 WHEELS

Any type wheel may be used provided it complies with the following:
  • A. It is the same width as standard and as installed it does not have an offset more than ±7.00 mm (±0.275”) from a standard wheel for the car. The resultant change in track dimensions is allowed.
  • B. Wheel (rim) diameter may be increased or decreased 1” from the standard part. Wheel spacers are permitted provided the resultant combination complies with the offset requirements of this Section. On vehicles supplied with an OE wheel spacer, the wheel spacer shall be considered as a part of the wheel. Wheel studs, lug nuts, valve stems (including pressure-relief types), and/or bolt length may be changed. Tire pressure monitoring sensors may be removed. Centerlock/Spline Drive/Knock-off type hubs may be converted to lug type hubs provided the resultant combination complies with the offset requirements of this Section.
 
Flightmaster127 said:
I run stock or "street" class as they are calling it now. You can go up or down 1" in diameter from OEM but you can't change width as far as I know.

Also I don't know where the silicon intake hose falls for this as well. I have one as well but I'm probably going to switch back to the factory piece on race days so I don't get bumped.
Click to expand...

13.10 ENGINE AND DRIVE TRAIN A. The engine air filter element may be removed or replaced provided the air flow path remains as originally designed (i.e., no additional openings). No other components of the air induction system may be removed, replaced, or modified.

After giving it a second read it sounds like you are making the right move with removing it for race day... I take this ^ as you can only swap the filter.
 
webby said:
I'd read over the wheel/tire section really closely if you're staying in stock class. There are a number of rules regarding width of wheel, offset, as well as tire tread wear rating requirements. Looks like you should be ok on the sway.

13.7 ANTI-ROLL (SWAY) BARS

A. Substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-roll bar and supporting hardware (brackets, endlinks, bushings, etc.) is permitted. The use of any bushing material is permitted. A bushing may be implemented as a bear- ing.

B. Substitution, addition, or removal of anti-roll bars may serve no other purpose than that of an anti-roll bar.

C. No modification to the body, frame, or other components to accommodate anti-roll bar addition or substitution is allowed except for the drilling of holes for mounting bolts. Non-standard lateral members which connect between the brackets for the bar are not permitted.
Click to expand...

So I should be alright with running the RSB and front Strut Bar since it only specifies a single "sway bar"....
 
GodBoner said:
So I should be alright with running the RSB and front Strut Bar since it only specifies a single "sway bar"....
Click to expand...
Rear Sway yes. The strut bar would be considered additional chassis bracing. Check with your local club to see weather they would allow it or not.
 
It would be hard to tell you have a strut bar on there from driving the car. They are a pretty unnecessary part on these cars. The struts are jammed up against the fire wall and that is right where the A-pillars join the chassis. Its one of the stiffest places on the entire car and needs no reinforcement. Better off without it. If the HPD teams aren't running one, you probably don't need one.

The money would be better spent elsewhere on the car. It's a blingy bit and if you're getting it for looks thats fine. But, if you're wanting to stay in class and it bumps you for competitions, and it wont help with handling, leave it off the car.
 
Nix said:
It would be hard to tell you have a strut bar on there from driving the car. They are a pretty unnecessary part on these cars. The struts are jammed up against the fire wall and that is right where the A-pillars join the chassis. Its one of the stiffest places on the entire car and needs no reinforcement. Better off without it. If the HPD teams aren't running one, you probably don't need one.

The money would be better spent elsewhere on the car. It's a blingy bit and if you're getting it for looks thats fine. But, if you're wanting to stay in class and it bumps you for competitions, and it wont help with handling, leave it off the car.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's why i listed it more as an aesthetic piece. I would still like to run one from the aesthetic stand point and ill just take it off to Autox. Anybody know if the Megan Racing bar gets in the way during an oil change? It just seems like it runs right over the oil cap and may be a hassle
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nix
I think the sirimoto sits back further than the megan, but it looks like there is plenty of clearance to the oil cap.

megan.png
 
Last edited:
Looks really professional. Is that 3m dinoc carbon fiber film?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top