green light on amp

like i turned them on last night on the way home from dropping my gf off and between there and my house is prob like 10 15 mins at the most and yeah i got home and opened my trunk and it was making a sound and my green light was on instead of the red light . so i waited and i tried to turn them on today and i still have nothing.
 
Most likely your power supply has failed or had a drop in voltage. Have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling? What kind of amp is it?
 
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melted fuse? :scratches:

I had a power supply go on a previous amp & it did what you're describing with light showing up. I don't think I've ever heard of a fuse melting in an amp though? Is your amp mounted in a tight space where it can't get air? Like it's overheating?
 
well, doing some searching on other forums, I guess you're not alone with the whole melting thing. I've just never read something like this.

2 posts that I saw...

When you have a fuse casing or fuse holder that's melting (without the fuse blowing) it means that there's a poor connection at the fuse terminals. Resistance in the connection is generating heat, which travels up the leg of the fuse and melts the casing. Either you have a dirty, charred or corroded fuse holder, or the type of fuse holder you're using can't handle all that current.

If you're using a Maxi (large spade type) fuse, upgrade to an ANL fuse and fuse holder. ANL fuses are the best choice for high-current systems, because they have a large terminal surface area, and they're clamped down with nuts and lock washers. That way there's no resistance in the connections between the fuse and fuse holder, and no extra heat buildup.
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usualy when fuse melts, rather then meaning that your running high enough current through it, but not high enough to pop the fuse.
Fuse is heat sensitive, and its not super accurate.

For instance, 30amp fuse will blow right away, if you run 40amp current through it, because it heats element up right away.
If you run 20amp through it, it'll be fine, because it won't get hot enough.
But if you run, say 28amp continuesly, it'll heat up element enough to cause dmg(melting), but not hot enough to pop the fuse right away.
Samething goes if your right at 30amp or just above it. wont pop the fuse, but slowly heats it for the fuse element to melt from heat eventualy.

Or at least this was how it explained to me by installer back when I had the identical probrem with my old Mustang, and it was kept melting 40amp inline fuse.
Replaced 40amp blade fuse with 60amp glass tube fuse, probrem went away completely.
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well see I melted my inline fuse before and fried my subs I said in another post in the audio section on here....so I declared that the weird noise is coming from my subs not my amp. everytime they hit its a werid noise and for like a split second theres a green light too
 
It could just be that you have the gain to high so if it over heats (protection mode ) wires touching another terminal (protection mode) and if your melting fuses that might be your power wire pinched somwhere so its arcing on metal and the fuse is too high that it wont pop so it gets hot and things start to melt .
 
Sorry didnt read above lol i just said the same thing NM lol .
 
9thgizzyguy said:
It could just be that you have the gain to high so if it over heats (protection mode ) wires touching another terminal (protection mode) and if your melting fuses that might be your power wire pinched somwhere so its arcing on metal and the fuse is too high that it wont pop so it gets hot and things start to melt .
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my bass boost is maxed out so I might turn things down first n see
 
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