kseriescivic's path to S/C !

You referring to the Honda reflash map? It could definitely mess with how the car idles, especially depending on the mods the car has etc. The reflash map is far from perfect & is just a generic base. Every mod is going to change the way it runs.
 
webby said:
You referring to the Honda reflash map? It could definitely mess with how the car idles, especially depending on the mods the car has etc. The reflash map is far from perfect & is just a generic base. Every mod is going to change the way it runs.
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I meant vits very first cal he sent me. Revision 0000. I'm assuming it's just like the reflash map, and since I'm running a full 3 inch exhaust it ran like poop. I'm running revision 0001 now and it's gone. Just was a little curious. Thanks
 
Oh I'm not sure what he sends as his first map. You may have another 30-40 updates till he's done with the tune (according to others).
 
webby said:
Oh I'm not sure what he sends as his first map. You may have another 30-40 updates till he's done with the tune (according to others).
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Yeah, thats what I've heard. So far I'm on my 3rd cal waiting on my 4th. Car drives way better so far! I've been doing about a cal a day so far, but I wish I could do more lol
 
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Ricks spec'd intake arrived today.
Anybody know what kind of hardware I need to buy for the relocation kit? And if there's a guide that's similar that I can follow?
 
kseriescivic said:
Yeah, thats what I've heard. So far I'm on my 3rd cal waiting on my 4th. Car drives way better so far! I've been doing about a cal a day so far, but I wish I could do more lol
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kseriescivic said:
Ricks spec'd intake arrived today.
Anybody know what kind of hardware I need to buy for the relocation kit? And if there's a guide that's similar that I can follow?
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Ouch. Should've gotten the skunk 2 CAI. Comes with everything and instructions.
 
Kevv_Si said:
Ouch. Should've gotten the skunk 2 CAI. Comes with everything and instructions.
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All is good. Just reuse the bolts from the stock battery tray thing. Part of the stock resonator plastic had to go so the giant filter and velocity stack could fit.IMAG0287.jpg
A prl clutch line would be a good option but isn't necessary. I had to remove some clips so the battery terminals would reach but it's easy. Skunk2 I think you have to solder some wires and I didn't want to have to mess with that...and most of all I paid 175$ for it so I couldn't pass that up.
 
kseriescivic said:
All is good. Just reuse the bolts from the stock battery tray thing. Part of the stock resonator plastic had to go so the giant filter and velocity stack could fit.View attachment 45074
A prl clutch line would be a good option but isn't necessary. I had to remove some clips so the battery terminals would reach but it's easy. Skunk2 I think you have to solder some wires and I didn't want to have to mess with that...and most of all I paid 175$ for it so I couldn't pass that up.
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Yeah that is true. I had to solder the maf sensor wires. Where's the battery at?
 
Kevv_Si said:
Yeah that is true. I had to solder the maf sensor wires. Where's the battery at?
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Drops down like the prl kit I'm assuming. I'll snap a picture in a minute.
Here is the battery. It gets flipped so the terminals reach.
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I just ordered:
-HR cable bushings
-Hasport rear motor mount (62a)
-Mtec shifter spring kit (race)
-Hondabond
-PRL battery relocation clutch line

Car should shift pretty nice :)
 
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Ordered a PWJDM dry carbon Gurney flap !

PRL clutch line arrived today. Also found time to install my hybrid racing shifter cable bushings.
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Probably will install the clutch line this weekend sometime. The cable bushings are a great upgrade!

More goodies
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My camera is crap and my car is filthy so I'll get better pictures this weekend. Need to lower and get wheels now. Probably will buy a rear window visor next week
 
I may just have bad luck ,but I've had two rear window visors come off already. I watched the first one (For coupe before ProCivic released a coupe version) peeling off and fixed it, then it must have came off on the highway after a long drive. The second one was the coupe visor from ProCivic which was great until it mysteriously disappeared. I'm thinking the second one was stolen though, because it was on before I parked downtown one day and gone when I got home. Had it on for at least 5,000-10,000 miles too.
 
Did you clean everything well before sticking it on? Thanks for letting me know that

@PRO Civic have there been many complaints about coupe rear window visors coming off after awhile ?
 
Yeah, cleaned thoroughly and used extra material to glue the edges down. I really liked PRO Civic's one, and I firmly believe mine was stolen. I had no issues with it prior to that. The other one I had was just poor design and I saw it coming.
 
Well all has been well with my exhaust until about a week ago I started my car in the morning and it was way louder than usual. Figured I had a leak but took it to the dealer and it looked good. The downpipe also rubbing way more than ever. Will a rmm fix this? @Full-Race
 
kseriescivic said:
Well all has been well with my exhaust until about a week ago I started my car in the morning and it was way louder than usual. Figured I had a leak but took it to the dealer and it looked good. The downpipe also rubbing way more than ever. Will a rmm fix this? @Full-Race
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squiggy said:
Do you have a rear motor (torque) mount?
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I think @kseriescivic is asking @Full-Race about the rear motor mount and if it will help with the rubbing @squiggy
 
Yes that, I'm assuming that's what's causing some sort of leak sound. It doesn't sound like it did when I had it installed. I know about the rubbing and it rarely did it until recently. Now there's rubbing and a leak sound. I'll get a mount next week and hopefully that fixes everything..@squiggy no, I bought a rmm but sold it because I didnt rub at the time...oh well. The dp does look sexy cause of the heat
 
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