LED Light Bars

E

Erroon

Member
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I was hoping you guys might be able to help me.

I want to mount a few small LED light bars on my 2013 Honda Civic LX sedan (no fog lights or interior illumination or anything)

2 very small ones would be wired in conjunction with the headlight low beams, and that shouldn't be a problem, just use a fuse tap on headlight low beam fuses in the engine compartment right? Should I tap both the left and the right just to ease the strain, or just wire both light bars on one of the fuses (like the left? The power consumption on these two would be less than 5 amps.

That should be the easy part for me... then next one is what I'm stumped on....

I then want to wire a much larger light bar to be switched on with my High Beams (probably UP to 10 amp draw on the light bar). This fuse is in the car... and much of the circuit seems to be shared when operating as DRLs and as actual Highbeams. Would I just tap the fuses for the high beams that are in the interior fuse box(fuses 38 and 39)? And again, tap one or both (and wire them together and then run one wire)? I guess my real concern is that the lower voltage of the DRL (which I want to keep) would be running through the fuse for the high beam.

And then my last concern, it would make all this moot... Are the fuses before the switches or after the switch? Like if I tap into the fuse for the low beams, is it going to get constant power with ignition, or power only when my low beams are on? And same question for the high beams.

Thanks for the help!

And btw, I live in the middle of bum*&%# nowhere where the animals practically live in the streets, so that's my desire for the lightbars.

At some point I may just unplug the fuse for the daytime running lights (to save the bulb of my regular high beams), and just tap into an unused fuse that is switched on ignition to power even smaller LED lights, but that I'm not concerned about... I know what fuses to tap into at that point as it's only on or off with the car.
 
webby said:
Like the stuff you see on jeeps and big trucks?
Click to expand...
Pretty much, but much smaller, and put behind my bumper so it's not glaringly obvious, (unless it's on of course).

The goal isn't to be a dick and blind people, I just would like to be able to go speed limit or above on some roads around me at night without having to worry that I won't have seen something...
 
I'd highly advise going with hid lights or a full projector retrofit (better option). It'll look completely stock (unless you want various upgrades) & provide way better light output.
 
webby said:
I'd highly advise going with hid lights or a full projector retrofit (better option). It'll look completely stock (unless you want various upgrades) & provide way better light output.
Click to expand...

What sort of price range would I be looking at? And how difficult of an install?
 
$270 in parts. Install requires removing like 2 screws and a bunch of plastic clips for the front bumper. Front headlights are held on by like 3 or 4 bolts. Headlights go into the oven for like 5-7min to soften the adhesive. You pull the front clear portion of the headlight off while the adhesive is warm. Install just requires putting the projector into the bulb hole, and tightening a bolt on the back. There are step by step instructions that a few people did in the DIY lighting area. They also did various things like spray painting the reflector housing and other upgrades that aren't required. Full wiring info on how to hook up the hid harness is also in the lighting section. If you think you want to do that, I can find links. Companies also do the whole labor portion of installing the projectors if you don't want to mess with it. Rich at hidillusionz.com offers package prices if you buy the parts from him. You just have to mail him your lights unless you're local to his shop in NJ.
 
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