Mike's boosted build

I would’ve gone @webby route but didn’t want to take that off and make a mess so I went my lazy route.
 
I might try the APR out so I can make it look clean. worst case I got Honda bond too lol.
 
Just put the tape on in the correct way. If you wrap it the direction you tighten things it’ll be good. Go the opposite and it’ll just shred itself.
 
For some crazy reason.. on Wednesday my car thrown a P03003 code for cylinder 3 misfire. I noticed the past few days my car had a small studder sound(like a mild cam) on idle not bad but noticeable. I did not think nothing of it since I was in the starting stages of turning.
I took out the Coil pack from 2 and 3 switched them to see if the coil was bad. Well the code went away but I did notice there was 1 knock in cylinder 3 and I still feel like it is missing. so tonight I am going to pull the Spark plugs and change to see maybe that will help.
 
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I changed my plugs today and noticed the burnt spot on the white part. When I looked it up it said it's from compression leakage. But so far the Misfire has not come back and my car does not sound like a 1960 muscle car camming lol.

But I did notice that I now have 1 knock in cylinder 2 and 4 but only 1 in each on an 18 min highway drive at 70 mph. Not sure if I am over looking a possible vacuum leak? At cold start I noticed that it sounds like it is misfiring hard for a few seconds to the point that the car shakes. But shortly goes away.
 
Finished my tune and went out to the track and did kinda horrible. (My car really did not feel 100%.) Toward the end of the night on my last run right on the start(green light) my CEL indicator started flashing assuming it was a misfire. The car would not let me go past 2,000 rpms as I proceeded my way down the quarter mile of shame I pulled over at the backside of the track to check my car. I could not see anything visually so I cut the car off and back on and the CEL was gone and car was back to normal.

When I got back home I tried to see if I could pull the code with hondata or at least duplicate the code but no luck. After a few days have passed and no code decided to just look through my sensors and happen to notice my IAT was up to 146 degrees F after only 5 minutes ECT was at 185. I am starting to wonder if I got a bubble somewhere in my lines or possibly some trash.
 
Weird. Sucks U can’t pull that code to see if it’s the same one u pulled before. Doesnt hurts to check for vacuum leaks and burp the radiator for a bit. Hope U get this squared away.
 
I ran over the vacuum lines to do a visual examination on them they seem to be ok. This weekend I am wanting to run and get some carb cleaner to spray around to see if I can find a leak somewhere. Also I am going to try and add some coolant to see if that helps.
Also do you know of a performance brand for coil on plugs?
 
From my experience, if the car starts to overheat then the High Temp Indicator Light will come on but not the CEL. Also, the car did not go into limp mode, it still revved OK for me. You mentioned IAT was 146 though, and that is probably something to look into.

Did you datalog the runs you had at the track?

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ruddyrid said:
From my experience, if the car starts to overheat then the High Temp Indicator Light will come on but not the CEL. Also, the car did not go into limp mode, it still revved OK for me. You mentioned IAT was 146 though, and that is probably something to look into.

Did you datalog the runs you had at the track?

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No I did not bring my FlashPro to the track only because of the horrible crime that goes on at the track.

On a few logs I just did I noticed a difference between having the A/C on between my temperature's. With my A/c off my ECT1 gets up to 195 and my IAT goes up to 145 when I turn it on the IAT drops to 120ish and my ECT1 goes up to 205?? Kind of confused on that. It is normally around 98 degrees F.
 
The temperatures you noted seem to be correct for the most part, and the way temperature readings changed with the AC on or off make sense. To explain it simply, when the AC compressor turns on it loads the engine a bit and also generates heat at the condenser which sits in front of the radiator. This causes the engine temperature to rise as it's under load and the air going through the radiator is warmed up by the condenser. In turn, having the radiator fan turn on causes the under-hood air to circulate quicker, which can help bring air intake temperatures down.

Still though, the air intake temps you noted seem a bit high especially if you have a cold air intake.
 
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That makes sense most of my other tunes where done during the winter so I did not see much of a jump in ECT.

I did not do the coolant delete on my RBC so I am wondering if that is why it is so high?
 
Nah, that shouldn't be the case. The coolant delete mod definitely does help with power, but it should not really register at the Intake Air Temp sensor as it's not close to the manifold and is also upstream from the throttle body. As a point of reference, we've seen 115~120F IAT readings in about 100F ambient weather during a road race event. This was during a 10+ minute session and the temperatures were consistent.
 
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