Powerslot Cryo rotors and Goodridge brake lines available

SCFast

SCFast

Well-Known Member
415
191
Santa Cruz,CA
Vehicle Model
Si
Body Style
Coupe
Looks like powerslot has listed fitment for cryo and standard rotors for 2012 civic Si coupes FR
126.40057CSL &
126.40057CSR Rear
126.40040CSL &
126.40040CSR looks to be the same as 8th gens
Goodridge stainless lines
#20028

Add some Hawk HPS pads and you have a good combo for Autox and street.
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thanks for the heads up - appreciate it :thumbsup:. I added a link in the parts available thread to this as well.
 
sweet...I was just talking about getting some drilled/slotted rotors yesterday with a buddy of mine, but I assumed I'd have to wait months (without looking for them anyways)...I'll look into getting a set
 
I would not recommend getting drilled i would just go slotted if i were you.
 
Drilled will crack if you drive your Si like it should be driven you will get stress cracks no need for them IMHO it's not if it's when.Unless you just cannot live without the look Go blank or slotted i do notice a little more initial grab with slotted and they are my preference for street and Autox. I Really like Powerslot's i have about 300k combined while using them and yes you can turn both slotted and Drilled
 
I should be fine then because I definitely don't drive it like it should be driven, I baby my cars now. Other than the occasional race, but I don't race light to light to light like I used to do back in the day, until my front rotors and my turbo were both glowing red. When I was 19 I had a gsx eclipse that I put drilled rotors on, and I drove that car like it was stolen for the 4 years I owned it. I did crack a rotor once or twice, and went through pads about as often as I changed my oil but I really do pamper my cars now so cracking one would probably never happen. If I get drilled & slotted on my Si it would mainly be because they look so much better with wheels like my TE's, that show so much of the rotor. The faster cooling is just a plus when I do catch a race or two.

I've only tried to have one set of slotted/drilled rotors turned (from my gsx) and at the time I was told by two different shops that they are possible to be turned but they wouldn't attempt it for the fear of damaging their machine. Then a couple of years after I sold the car I found out Oriely will turn drilled rotors, or at least that's what I was told...sorry for the long winded response!
 
LOL well then you will be good plus they will look good...I do not tend to race stoplight to stoplight either anymore but we are blessed to have plenty of mountain roadways (including my daily commute) around my neck of the woods which is what the Si is designed for IMHO and good binders are a plus. Drilled rotors do offer improved cooling but only at higher speeds not so much anywhere else.

Centric (powerslot,stoptech) provides a sheet with turning guidelines including thickness minimums.
 
it can be done, it's just a matter of finding a shop willing to do them. That goes for both slotted, or drilled/slotted. I've seen some reports of Oreilly's auto parts doing it for corvette owners.
 
lol, when I say Oriely I actually mean Hi/Lo Autoparts, for all you old folks out there who remember that...

I can't say I would EVER trust an Oriely employee to properly turn my rotors, I was just shocked to find out that they actually do it. I remeber thinking to myself, "Hi/Lo does rotor turning?..the last time I was there the guy didn't know what a pulley puller was and now they turn rotors?!?"
 
You're saying that cryo treated, cross drilled rotors will develop stress cracks? Isn't the whole point of cryo treating a part so that it doesn't crack under stress?

Also, I'm not sure if this is a universal problem with slotted rotors, but I had them on my EJ1 and they were really noisy. When I had my windows down and was driving next to a curb, or anything the sound could bounce off of, it sounded like a playing card in bicycle spokes. I found it to be very annoying. I couldn't hear it with the windows up at all, but living in either California or Florida, there are days where I just wanted to drive with the windows down, ya know?
 
I tried to edit my last post to include this, but apparently you can't edit your post after five minutes.

Anywho, the reason shops don't like to turn drilled rotors is the potential to break the blade on the lathe. In my personal opinion, the fact that some shops can seem to do this job without breaking their equipment points to the possibility that it's operator error when this phenomenon presents itself (the blade braking on the lathe). The story I've been told is that, because the blade comes in and out of contact with the rotor, it can cause it to break. The logic seems sound, but like I said, it doesn't make any sense that some shops can manage it without breaking blades while others cannot.
 
Any cross drilled rotor will eventually develop stress cracks. Drilled rotors are pretty much only to reduce weight and aid in cleaning/off gassing (which we don't really run into with today's pads) and at higher speeds(and i mean much HIGHER) can help a little with cooling but will actually run hotter in most driving/track conditions due to less mass to dissipate the heat and the biggest glare is that removing material will always make the part weaker. So in turn not needed and is actually a downgrade
 
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