Q:How Do I fix static on radio when charging Cell phone via 12v center console?

young0ne

young0ne

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Hi every one I'm new here I been looking around to find a solution but haven't found any.

I have 2013 Honda Civic EX-L non Navi. I just traded my wack 07 Maxima for something better on gas and more reliable

There are two things that I wanna take care of.

1.) Get rid of static on the radio when changing my cell phone via 12v center console (arm rest)

2.) then turn that into a always on 12v port


Let me explain my issues with number 1
When I use a USB port car charger 5V 2.0amps I get bad static on the radio FM station when I remove it cord it goes away but when i put it in the cord in the usb port the static comes back.when i use a less powerful charger 5v 1amp its a little less noticeable.I also have a extended duel 12v with 2 ubs ports and the static it not there to much. all give static dont matter what cable i use. now here is the kicker. I have gps and radar on a 12v spliter in the front 12v port and dose not give me static i even put it in the back one no static so I dont know why its only doing it when I use my phone.

issue two

what the best way to change the center console (rear one) 12v to always on?
 
Take it in to honda and show them what it's doing. You may need to get that port replaced. You could test your phone on another car at the dealership to see if it's doing the same thing, or to show yours is defective.
 
webby said:
Take it in to honda and show them what it's doing. You may need to get that port replaced. You could test your phone on another car at the dealership to see if it's doing the same thing, or to show yours is defective.
Click to expand...

so I did some more troubleshooting with 5v 2.0 amp charger and went to see if it happens on other FM station with and some have static, some don't. it messes with the antenna some how cuz when i do a auto search it skips a lot of station with it in put soon as i take it out i get every freaking station with that said i also tried it in my wife 07 civic and had static to so i think it just the charger. I replaced my regular duel 12v for extended duel 12v with 2 ubs ports and hooked everything up GPS ,Radar,and phone cable to usb and no static. so could be a poorly made charger with no RF blocking
 
To turn your 12v socket into an always on you would need to tap into an unused constant 12v source at the fuse box that has power even when the key is off and run that wire to the positive terminal on the outlet. disconect (cut ) the positive wire and splice/solder your new wire into the positive lead on the outlet. you would need a wiring diagram to find out which wire is the positive and wich is the ground, but this is the simplest solution I can think of.
 
Flightmaster127 said:
To turn your 12v socket into an always on you would need to tap into an unused constant 12v source at the fuse box that has power even when the key is off and run that wire to the positive terminal on the outlet. disconect (cut ) the positive wire and splice/solder your new wire into the positive lead on the outlet. you would need a wiring diagram to find out which wire is the positive and wich is the ground, but this is the simplest solution I can think of.
Click to expand...

thank you this is the info i need where would I get the Diagram for the wires?
 
You'd just use a multimeter on the wires. It should just have a ground/power wire on it.
 
webby said:
You'd just use a multimeter on the wires. It should just have a ground/power wire on it.
Click to expand...
i was looking for the wire that goes to the 12v it would be a lot easier to find it and do it at a short distance instead of running wires to the fuse or I might just add a 12v port what you think is easier?
 
I don't follow your post. You cut the wires from the console. Test each one for power with the car turned on. You'll be capping the power wire and using the ground on your new setup. You need to run a wire from your fuse tap up to the console.

If you want diagrams, honda offers the ability to access their documentation online by the day/month/year.
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
 
update: I was able to convert the rear center console to always on with out cutting any of the car wires. If any one whats a How to Ill make one just let me know.
 
webby said:
what did you do?
Click to expand...
Items
40Ft 18 gauge wire
fuse tap
fuses (already had fuses)
fully insulated quick-disconnect terminal set
1/4 Terminal ring connector
M7 machine bolt

First I took apart the center console very easy to do its 3 pieces front console, body console and the rear panel of the console all these should be removed
upon removal of the console there are two connectors that go to the USB and the 12v port I disconnected them
the usb connector is towards the front of the console and the 12v is towards the back this has two connection spots one is mid way and the other is at the socket.
When you remove the connector at the back the 12v socket has the standard two prongs positive prong and negative prong.

then I cut my 18 gauge wire one length was about 7 ft for 12v and the other was about 1 ft for ground. (mark your wires so you know which one your + and -


I strip the wires tips and connected the disconnect terminals to one end of both wires
and on the ground wire on the other end i connected the ring terminal

next i ran my 12v wire to the fuse box on the inside there should be enough play for placement of wires
then connected the fuse tap the other end of the 12v wire (DO NOT PUT IT IN THE FUSE)

with the console removed there are two holes in the front where the center console bucket sits there you can use any hole and bolt down the the wire with M7 bolt.

once that's solved go ahead put the console back together but leave the rear panel off its going to be the last thing you put on

now on the rear panel you should see the 12v socket prongs go ahead connect your wires to the the prong the Negative will go on the side prong and the positive will go on the center prong ( if you don't know for sure where your +/- prongs are use the car connector to know which one it is. for me yellow is positive and black ground)

Now with that done go to the front put a fuse in the tap i used a 20 amp fuse for the tap (don't know if that will hurt but no issues for me) the connect the tap to #10 on the box and you should have always on power test to check. put the rear panel back on and your ready to go

I had this done for three days and no issues what so ever. hopes this helps
 
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