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- #21
R18 civic EX brake upgrade?
- Thread starter Chito
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
I know on the previous gen cars you could swap to the Acura TL-S master cylinder. It was a larger bore since that car came with large Brembo calipers. It bolted right up to the brake booster on my car but I could not get the reservoir to fit. I missed the part where guys doing the TSX calipers with TL-S MC used the reservoir from the Si with the new MC. I have no idea if it would fit your car. The cheapest TL-S MC I found was a Dorman one on Amazon for $70. Si reservoir should be pretty cheap.
Since it sounds like you've done caliper swaps before, I will say bench bleeding the MC was a PITA. Not a lot of room to maneuver getting it in there either only to find out it wouldn't clear the cowl.
If you really want to improve the pedal feel you can upgrade to stainless lines. I generally don't like to recommend anything other than the OEM rubber lines since the SS lines are similar to the Motul fluids in that they need to be changed out regularly.
Good pads, fluid, and SS lines should give you all the brake you need. Those Hawk HP+ will be great for canyon/mountain runs. You'll just need a fluid to match them. It's easy to boil OEM fluid once you have a better pad for confidence.
ATE Type 200 Amber.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...id&partNum=ATETYP200&brand=ATE&cat=BrakeFluid
I like to recommend this fluid since it lasts decently long and has performed very well for me. Biggest point to pay attention to in the description is this:
Other popular fluids like Motul RBF600 need to be changed, full flush, like once a year.
Since it sounds like you've done caliper swaps before, I will say bench bleeding the MC was a PITA. Not a lot of room to maneuver getting it in there either only to find out it wouldn't clear the cowl.
If you really want to improve the pedal feel you can upgrade to stainless lines. I generally don't like to recommend anything other than the OEM rubber lines since the SS lines are similar to the Motul fluids in that they need to be changed out regularly.
Good pads, fluid, and SS lines should give you all the brake you need. Those Hawk HP+ will be great for canyon/mountain runs. You'll just need a fluid to match them. It's easy to boil OEM fluid once you have a better pad for confidence.
ATE Type 200 Amber.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...id&partNum=ATETYP200&brand=ATE&cat=BrakeFluid
I like to recommend this fluid since it lasts decently long and has performed very well for me. Biggest point to pay attention to in the description is this:
- Designed to last up to 3 years under normal highway driving conditions
Other popular fluids like Motul RBF600 need to be changed, full flush, like once a year.
Gixxerfool
Well-Known Member
I'm curious as to why the SS lines would need to be changed regularly? Are they not coated?
Tak
Well-Known Member
What SS lines do you recommend for a daily r18?
Thank you
Thank you
Tak
Well-Known Member
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With the increase in strength associated with stainless steel lines, also comes a little more maintenance. The braided mesh covering can allow small dust and dirt particles to get between the braiding and hydraulic line. Over time, these dirt particles will wear away at the inner lining and will eventually cause a leak. Most stainless steel brake lines will come with a PVC (or other similar covering) on them to prevent dirt intrusion, but it is important to know the specifics of your lines. Even if you do have a PVC covering on your stainless braided lines, it is still a good idea to check them periodically for leaks.
Gixxerfool
Well-Known Member
I kind of figured. I can't believe that a coating isn't ubiquitous by now
The SS lines need to be changed out since the stainless covering basically wears away the inner rubber hose with dirt trapped in between. They are racing parts and racing parts need to be changed and maintained like other racing parts. Regular use, wear, and replacement.
Works great every day. You should be changing out your OEM fluid every couple of years anyways. The ATE stuff won't be any worse to use than old OEM fluid if you don't change it after 3 years, it just loses it's high performance properties after a while. All brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air which makes it work worse over time. most people don't know how bad their fluid is and if you never really heat it up it won't make much difference.
Don't run SS lines on your DD.
If you upgrade to larger piston calipers and the MC has trouble keeping up with the increased fluid volume it needs to move it can make the pedal a bit soft. The SS lines help with firmer pedal feel. I wouldn't run them unless I was tracking my car. I still run rubber OEM lines on my car. Never had an issue. I have a slightly soft pedal at the top but it also lets me have more modulation instead of the brakes biting immediately with a small push.
Works great every day. You should be changing out your OEM fluid every couple of years anyways. The ATE stuff won't be any worse to use than old OEM fluid if you don't change it after 3 years, it just loses it's high performance properties after a while. All brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air which makes it work worse over time. most people don't know how bad their fluid is and if you never really heat it up it won't make much difference.
Don't run SS lines on your DD.
If you upgrade to larger piston calipers and the MC has trouble keeping up with the increased fluid volume it needs to move it can make the pedal a bit soft. The SS lines help with firmer pedal feel. I wouldn't run them unless I was tracking my car. I still run rubber OEM lines on my car. Never had an issue. I have a slightly soft pedal at the top but it also lets me have more modulation instead of the brakes biting immediately with a small push.