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iShift_6
Well-Known Member
Revised wiring diagram, including all custom circuits(explainations included) and parts lists. (Sorry for the long post)
The in-line resistor on the high beam circuit (the one not in the supplemental control unit) is a 6 Ohm resistor from VLEDS with 9005 connectors.
Although any 6 Ohm resistor will do, the choice is yours, but this is needed to cancel out the DRL warning light as the LEDs do not draw enough current.
The components in the "Pulse Width Modulation Filter" are as follows, and in order of how they are shown in the diagram:
Diode (I forget the specs at the moment, will update when I get them).
Resistor(1) is a 4.7K one, color code (Yellow/Violet/Red/Gold)
Resistor(2) is a 10K one, color code (Brown/Black/Orange/Gold)
Capicitor is a 10uF one
I purchased all the parts at RadioShack, however they can be had online at many places.
The comparator was purchased from Amazon, SMAKN 12V 2 channel DC comparator is what I used, there are others out there.
The "Pulse Width Modulation Filter" is the key to making all this work right. It takes the intermitant 12V that Honda uses to drive the DRLs,
and turns it into a constant 3.6V in DRL mode, and 7.2V in high beam mode. The diagram is "correct" in that the second resistor and capacitor
are wired in after the lead goes out to the compartior, I could explain all that but is kinda over my head so I don't want to confuse anyone.
From there the output feeds both channels of the comparator. The compared voltage is taken directly from the battery as a constant 12V.
This also drives the DRLs and High Beams so there worries about current. When the car is off the 12V is fed to the NC side of comparator 1,
which is open and goes no where. And it feeds the comparator itself, but when off all that is "on" is a lone LED, so there is no real draw on the battery.
Compartior 1 is set to 3V, so when the car is off it feeds the NC side of the relay, but when it sees anything over 3V it goes to the NO side and that feeds
the 12V to the second relay. Which in its NC state feeds the DRLs with the 12V when the DRLs would normally be on. Now when you flash to pass
or turn on the high beams the voltage goes to 7.2V from the filter. With comparator 1 set at 3V it will stay in the NO mode, but comparator 2 is set at 6.5V.
So when it sees the 7.2V it flips to the NO side and powers up the High Beams.
There you have it, full DRL, High Beam, and Flash to Pass functionality as stock as you can get.
From there it is just the 4 wires into the TLX/MDX control unit. I used the ground from the low beams to run that side of things.
As you can see in the diagram I remote located the control unit, only way to make everything fit into the Civic, there is just no room
behind the headlight housings for the control units. I mounted the control units in an extruded aluminium enclousure I found on ebay,
and mounted it to the back of the aluminium bumper. Along with all the other components are mounted to and around the bumper supports.
Making the 10 wire harness between the control units and the headlights was tedious but easy enough to do.
I think that explains everything going on in the diagram. If not let me know and I will adjust.
@ethlar - I hope this helps with your Accord setup. They look pretty sweet. Let me know if I can be of anymore help.
@rajsingh188 - Hope this makes sence...
The in-line resistor on the high beam circuit (the one not in the supplemental control unit) is a 6 Ohm resistor from VLEDS with 9005 connectors.
Although any 6 Ohm resistor will do, the choice is yours, but this is needed to cancel out the DRL warning light as the LEDs do not draw enough current.
The components in the "Pulse Width Modulation Filter" are as follows, and in order of how they are shown in the diagram:
Diode (I forget the specs at the moment, will update when I get them).
Resistor(1) is a 4.7K one, color code (Yellow/Violet/Red/Gold)
Resistor(2) is a 10K one, color code (Brown/Black/Orange/Gold)
Capicitor is a 10uF one
I purchased all the parts at RadioShack, however they can be had online at many places.
The comparator was purchased from Amazon, SMAKN 12V 2 channel DC comparator is what I used, there are others out there.
The "Pulse Width Modulation Filter" is the key to making all this work right. It takes the intermitant 12V that Honda uses to drive the DRLs,
and turns it into a constant 3.6V in DRL mode, and 7.2V in high beam mode. The diagram is "correct" in that the second resistor and capacitor
are wired in after the lead goes out to the compartior, I could explain all that but is kinda over my head so I don't want to confuse anyone.
From there the output feeds both channels of the comparator. The compared voltage is taken directly from the battery as a constant 12V.
This also drives the DRLs and High Beams so there worries about current. When the car is off the 12V is fed to the NC side of comparator 1,
which is open and goes no where. And it feeds the comparator itself, but when off all that is "on" is a lone LED, so there is no real draw on the battery.
Compartior 1 is set to 3V, so when the car is off it feeds the NC side of the relay, but when it sees anything over 3V it goes to the NO side and that feeds
the 12V to the second relay. Which in its NC state feeds the DRLs with the 12V when the DRLs would normally be on. Now when you flash to pass
or turn on the high beams the voltage goes to 7.2V from the filter. With comparator 1 set at 3V it will stay in the NO mode, but comparator 2 is set at 6.5V.
So when it sees the 7.2V it flips to the NO side and powers up the High Beams.
There you have it, full DRL, High Beam, and Flash to Pass functionality as stock as you can get.
From there it is just the 4 wires into the TLX/MDX control unit. I used the ground from the low beams to run that side of things.
As you can see in the diagram I remote located the control unit, only way to make everything fit into the Civic, there is just no room
behind the headlight housings for the control units. I mounted the control units in an extruded aluminium enclousure I found on ebay,
and mounted it to the back of the aluminium bumper. Along with all the other components are mounted to and around the bumper supports.
Making the 10 wire harness between the control units and the headlights was tedious but easy enough to do.
I think that explains everything going on in the diagram. If not let me know and I will adjust.
@ethlar - I hope this helps with your Accord setup. They look pretty sweet. Let me know if I can be of anymore help.
@rajsingh188 - Hope this makes sence...
