Streamlined techniques

Flippercon

Well-Known Member
1,697
1,184
Virginia Beach, VA
Vehicle Model
Civic Si
Body Style
Coupe
So I still get out there and handwash and wax. The handwashing part does not bother me but manually waxing is cutting into time. I have never explored using tools of any type and would like to ask everyone what they do and use. Its supposed to get to 54 here today with no sign of water for almost a week. Tomorrows my Bday and I am leaving work in half and hour. I would like to get off and detail the civic but wanted to see what you guys do to save time.
 
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What kind of protection do you want? How long do you want it to last? Is this something you have time for every week? If you lay down a serious layer of good protection you can maintain it with spray wax/sealant products and then you won't have to do it as often.

There are a lot of spray products out there that are pretty quick and do a decent job. None of them last very long. 2 weeks max on the meguairs quik wax. It's decent though and you can buy it local at a autozone/pep boys.

Spray Wax:

Optimum Car Wax: This one is pretty popular and does a real nice job.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum-OPT-M36/Car-Wax-P280/17-oz-S1/

Meguiars Ultimate Quik Wax: I've used this one. Works quick, looks good but doesn't last long. Once a week. Buy at autozone etc...
http://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-spray-wax.html


Spray Sealant:

Chemical Guys Hybrid V7: This is what i use now when im in a super hurry and don't have time for anything else. The real nice thing is that you can use it on all parts of your car, even the glass. So if you are out of time or just don't have it this works great, adds a lot of shine, and you don't have to be careful. It's really not long lasting though. Mostly use this on top of other wax to help extend it's life and to add shine after a maintenance wash.

http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemic...h-Gloss-Spray-Sealant-Detailer-P530/16-oz-S1/




Machine waxing: If you want to step up to a machine, the porter cable 7424xp is a good place to start. You can correct paint defects with it but if you are nervous about taking a machine to your paint, starting with waxing is a nice way to get used to it. This machine will not damage your paint if used correctly. You can use less wax and get it done more evenly much faster. Still have to go back for the tight areas by hand at the end.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Porter-Cable-M17/7424XP-Random-Orbital-Buffer-P331/
 
Nix thanks for the response. I am looking for a bi weekly maybe longer lasting. I live in an apartment so all this has to be done at a friends or at my mother's house. I have been using the turtle wax ice stuff for now. Are there specifics for the color black?
 
Nothing super specific. Black tends to be soft, and Honda paint is already soft so you need to be especially gentle with it to keep from adding more "marks" into the paint. There are "black waxes" that just came out in the last few months for the upcoming year but overall black is the hardest to keep looking good. It shows every little imperfection and swirl mark. But it does look fantastic when maintained.

Chemical Guys Black Wax $75
http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemical-Guys-M31/Black-Wax-P699/


Have you ever used a clay bar or anything similar? I have to run to work but ill get back to you more later on some easy upkeep stuff you can do to really make your car look great.


One of my favorite routines that lasts quite a while, and is a forum favorite combo on some detailing forums, is Chemical Guys Blacklight with the Hybrid V7 spray over top of it once dry and buffed off.

Another great wax that lasts a long time, and you can extend the life of with any of the spray products is one called Collinite 845 Insulator Wax.
 
That Chemical guys Blacklight and V7 look good. Saw a few videos on youtube on it. As for Clay bars I have not ever used one. I have heard different stories on it and I heard it takes a long time to do. I would like to know more about it but have never really asked. I am also pricing orbital buffers online.
 
I also wanted to know about the the different bonnets and how to store/maintain these items. I have my old g6 to test this out on but wanted to get a very good understanding of do's and don't's. I have done a bit of reading but still have a bunch of basics missing. I am a total newbie to using any machines when it comes to detailing.
 
After washing you'll need to remove bonded contaminates from the paint before polishing the paint with any type of buffer.
Here's a link to the detailed image site. They have some pretty good articles to read through.

Clay bar is a great place to start if you're looking to take the next step in paint care.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/Clay-Bar/

As far as the bonnets go... You're probably going to want to use foam pads instead.
Buffers work by the use of a backing plate. It's basically a plastic/rubber disc that bolts to the machine. On the surface is a layer of velcro. Then the foam pads are attached to that. The foam pads are different colors, densities, and "abrasiveness." Depending on the type of pad used and the polishing product used, you control how heavy or light the "cutting" and correcting ability is.

Read this entire thing and you'll have a pretty good idea.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/
 
RaskyR1 is the detailing man. I'm sure he can offer some help as well.

Honestly best things to get when starting off for proper care:

2 buckets (read the 2 bucket article. I use 3 now cause I have a separate one for wheels. You can just rinse and reuse one though)

2-4 grit guards (yes these things work)

Good quality wash soap (what are you currently using?)

Microfiber or wool wash mitts ( I like to use at least 2. One for the upper panels, a second for lower panels. Prevents the heaviest dirt below the doors and such from getting dragged up higher on the paint.)

Good quality microfiber towels both for drying and general useage.

Clay Bar (Clay and lube)

Final step: Wax/Sealant of choice.
 
Thanks a bunch for all the great info. I have been using Mothers California Gold and use a soft touch sponge. Two buckets make sense about the grit as well as the grit guards. I need to go shopping tomorrow for some supplies and my soap is just about out. Microfiber towels are plentiful here, I buy them bulk from Sam's.
 
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Here is a good how to for washing and drying.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/how-to-properly-wash-and-dry-a-car/

I don't really care for sponges and prefer natural lambs wool mitts. I'd avoid the ones at car part stores, target, & Wall-mart as they tend to be lower quality or synthetic.

For speeding up the wax process products like Opti-Seal, & Crystal Seal can add 3-6 months of protection in about 10 minutes...I prefer the Crystal Seal. ;)


If you want easier than that, CarPro just released a new products that is literally spray on and rinse off! I just received some of this on Wednesday, but it's still too cold to use it. Feedback so far has been very positive. ;)
http://www.carpro-us.com/hydro2-touchless-silica-sealant-100ml/glass-care/
 
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