Ethlar's significantly faster CM6

ethlar

ethlar

Grumpy Moderator
Super Mod
Toys For Tots
5,364
4,245
Philly
Vehicle Model
Polestar 2
Body Style
Sedan
My trusty FA1 of many years and 125,000 miles gave up on me last month with a random engine seizure. I was able to get it running again but not before i had replaced it, not trusting that the FA1 would not abandon me again i opted to keep the replacement.

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/ethlars-slow-asm-fa1-build.6577/

The replacement is a new to me 2006 Accord EX-L v6 6 speed manual sedan with navi in sapphire blue pearl. I inherited it from my mother who wanted an excuse to buy herself a new car anyway.

Pictures and plans to follow
 
  • Thread starter
  • Staff
  • #2
the red badge means fun
207071_504427591076_3558_n.jpg




they had met before: (the weekend i picked up the FA1, my mom also took delivery of the CM6, my old CD5 is hiding in the back too)
197535_504427551156_610_n.jpg


Over the years i made sure to take care of the CM6 for my mom, periodically giving her the keys to the FA1 for the weekend and spending time washing waxing and polishing.





The CM6 and FA1 met one last time, before i took the FA1 to the dealer to sell it:
10151277_981969413436_1745131846404031798_n.jpg


the important bits



 
Last edited:
  • Thread starter
  • Staff
  • #3
So far ive tinted the windows, 35% all around and have headlights in progress for retro. I moved all of my interior leds from the civic over to the accord.

I want to take the car to a local detailer for a massive paint correction, it has lots of bumps and scratches i want to minimize, but its not worth 2k to repaint the hood and bumpers.
 
Last edited:
  • Thread starter
  • Staff
  • #4
Current
Interior:
All interior bulbs replaced with LEDs
LED footwell lighting

Performance:
P2R Intake Manifold Spacer
2x P2R Intake Manifold Thermal Gaskets
Ported Polished and Gasket Matched Intake Runners
Magnaflow 16685 stainless catback exhaust (Too damn loud)
XLR8 J pipe and 3rd cat delete
6-6 Coupe front calipers and rotors
Stainless steel brake lines

Suspension:
Koni Supercup kit with Neuspeed Sport springs
TL Type S Front and Rear Sway Bars

Exterior:
MDX LED Retro
35% Tint all around
LED License plate lights
V-LED Triton v3 amber led modules (front signals)
V-LED Triton v3 amber led modules (rear signals)
Morimoto LED Fogs
TL-s 17x8 "waffle" wheels
235/45/17 Continental DWS06 tires

Audio/Visual:
iSimple ISHD651 USB/iPod/Bluetooth integration
Rear View Camera

Future Plans:
Ingalls Front camber bolts

Hopes and Dreams: (cause car mods are expensive)
Supercharger?
Built 3.7 with a TL-s LSD 6mt?
 
Last edited:
  • Thread starter
  • Staff
  • #6
magnaflow stayed on the car for about 12 hours, its just too loud so im back to stock, magnaflow is in the basement while i figure out what i want to do with it. Either going to sell it or see about putting a mid muffler in the system to quiet it down
 
You having rich do the lights, or are you tackling that project?
 
  • Thread starter
  • Staff
  • #8
Rich is doing the lights for me, hes hoping to get them shipped back this week actually. @Nix is getting the TLs he did for the civic
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nix
I got the TL-s rear sway on yesterday, it was quite the adventure to do. The front sway requires dropping the entire front subframe and i really dont feel safe getting under the car in my gravel driveway when its on anything other than ramps. So im paying a local shop to do the front sway. Wish i didnt have to, its going to be the first mod on a car that i didnt do myself but i guess its worth not ending up with a engine and trans on my chest.

Since the magnaflow exhaust is just too much sound for me and im having a hard time selling it, im thinking of using its resonator and deleting the mid muffler on the accord to do what the TL crowd calls a stage 2 exhaust, should sound something similar to this



I also discovered there is a gaping hole in my flex pipe so im contemplating trying to get a aftermarket J pipe to replace it, freeing up a little more power and rumble too
 
i guess i am getting old, went from my nimble little civic to a big boat of an accord, exhausts are too loud, i dont want to lower it cause of practicality

it was the combination of loud and that it was its loudest in normal driving that really was too much for me, if it behaved like a normal exhaust and was loudest at redline id have been fine, but i felt bad driving through my own neighborhood at night at 20-25 mph
 
TL-s front sway got installed today and i absolutely love it. The handling dynamic of the car is completely changed, the car now handles like its a freight train on rails, body roll is almost completely gone, but the car still has a mostly neutral sliding behavior when traction fails
 
and one day i hope to be able to confidently and safely do that in the 911
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nix
webby said:
lol you better have a gopro going
Click to expand...


i did slide it onto a 2 lane exit ramp once, took the outside lane which was empty, flat slid to the apex, rode second to 80 and threw it in third. Dad was sitting in the passenger seat laughing his *** off
 
Nix said:
I think theres a couple close to you..... VIR can't be too far.

http://www.hookedondriving.com/


Start hitting some auto-x in it.
Click to expand...


Items to check include:

  • Wheel bearings, for excess play or wear
  • Brake pad/shoe depth – a minimum of 50% remaining
  • Brake fluid – we highly recommend a flush and replacement with high temperature synthetic fluid
  • Tires – pressures should be increased 2-3 lbs. from standard pressures (see your expert for more precise guidance on this – and you really should buy a high quality air gauge with dial readout) – tread should have 50% remaining
  • Wheels – snap on parts should be removed and lug nuts should be tightened to recommended torque (usually in the 85 lb range, but check manufacturer recommendation)
  • Belts and safety equipment – is all the factory equipment in good shape?
  • Fuel – its best to arrive with a full, but not topped off tank – You’ll use fuel quickly on the track and your car is probably engineered to handle properly with a reasonably full load – fuel is available at the track, but it’s a bit pricey
  • Coolant/fluids (OK air-cooled guys, you’re off the hook on coolant) check all appropriate fluids – oil should be topped off (except dry sump Porsche engines, which should be at the low end of gauge/indicator)

:lildevil:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nix
its interesting that they want dry sump 911s to have their oil level at the low end of the gauge, i always get concerned after getting on the car a little bit how the gauge pegs out at the bottom, id figure youd want enough oil in the tank to keep a reading during sustained high rpm operation.

i guess i need to do more 911 reading
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top