Dar-Dar's 1995 Avus Blue E36 M3 Project Car

[Dar-Dar]

Rear End: Part 1

Since the welding part is done (probably not), I'm tackling on working on the rear end especially since I bought the rear subframe a while ago.


I started by loosening the axle nuts. The passenger side came loose with ease, but the driver side was a pain. And I ended up breaking my breaker bar using cheater bars. Kudos to Harbor Freight for replacing my breaker bar for free. No questions asked.

Luckily the nut broke loose when I used my 1/2" impact gun with 300lbs-ft maximum torque. Lol.

I then lifted the car to start removing the rear components. The front is on ramps. I put two jack stands per rear side of the car. And a jack and a pair of jack stands underneath the subframe. And finished by putting two wheels and two ramps underneath. Talk about being super safe. Lol.


After removing the rear struts, output shaft (the passenger side still needs to be removed, it's stuck at the moment), and rear anti sway bar, I removed the differential. Sorry for the blurry pic.
I cleaned it up by spraying degreaser and brake cleaner. Then I noticed that there's a small leak so I had to do something about it.


I started by opening up the differential and dumping out the barely used differential fluid.


The gear teeth look like they are in great shape for 171k miles.

I cleaned the mating areas with brake cleaner and applied red rtv gasket maker.

 

[Dar-Dar]

Rear End: Part 2

Guide pins were used so the differential cover will line up properly and wouldn't ruin the gasket maker.

I bolted on the hardware by hand and didn't apply too much torque per Permatex instruction. I torqued the bolts to spec an hour later.

I continued on by applying POR15 on the differential (except the differential cover).

No more rust!


POR15 was applied on the rear trailing arm brackets as well.

The rear subframe was removed.

I was expecting more rust underneath, but luckily there isn't too much. I also don't see any signs of cracking. The E46 and E36 are known to have some cracked rear chassis. I will treat this area before putting anything back on.

A comparison between the new (with polyurethane bushings) and old rusty subframe.

 

[ron v]

U gonna weld that diff shut?

I know I've said it before Dar but I love ur attention to detail. That things becoming a fully restored gem.

 

[bauer311]

You really have been doing a great job with the bimmer dar-dar. It's always neat to see what's going on with it.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[Dar-Dar]

Thank you. I'm trying to do this as fast as I possibly can so I can take it to the track. Or at least get some spirited driving before Fall ends.


More stuff came in. UUC polyurethane trailing arm bushings, FAG rear wheel bearings, axle nuts, and Mobil 1 75w-140 (with friction modifier for LSDs). I realized that the Redline Gear Oil that was given to me by the previous owner does not have a friction modifier. I suppose the BMW gods caused the differential to leak so I would replace the fluids to save the gears from future wear.

I also purchased hardware from Home Depot that will be replacing mics rusty 10mm nuts/bolts and the M12 hardware that mounts the top/bottom rear control arms. As well as some OEM hardware from BMW of South Atlanta and FCP Euro.

I will pick up more Dupli Color truck bed coating tomorrow too.

 

[ron v]

U gonna keep it when ur done or sell?

 

[Dar-Dar]

I want this to be my dedicated track/weekend car now. So I'll hold on to it for a while. Rust will no longer be an issue since I'm removing most of them and it won't be driven on snowy/salty road conditions.

 

[Dar-Dar]

I've seen people putting cages in super rusty cars. I get really confused about it.

 

[ron v]

I've seen people putting cages in super rusty cars. I get really confused about it.

i guess it just depends on how built the cage or the car. If I was building an old civic I might do it but for a classic like yours... now that's a different story. I would just be stoked on being able to build a cage lol.

 

[Dar-Dar]

I wouldn't build my own cage. If you have seen the latest episodes on the /Drive channel on YouTube, they purchased a rusty E30 (NJ car) to be used for racing. A full cage was fabricated on the E30 by a race shop in Union City NJ called Broken Motorsports. The guy who fabricated it did a hell of a job and the cage looked fantastic. Id get a half cage done there since the place is only 20min away.

 

[jrotax101]

If you haven't already done the RTABs, send the Utterly Useless Crap back to UUC and go with OEM and limiters. Poly doesn't work in that location too well.

If you truly want something special then contact David @ Syncro Design Works for a spherical RTAB kit

if not

OEM> all

 

[Dar-Dar]

If you haven't already done the RTABs, send the Utterly Useless Crap back to UUC and go with OEM and limiters. Poly doesn't work in that location too well.

If you truly want something special then contact David @ Syncro Design Works for a spherical RTAB kit

if not

OEM> all

I've noticed that the UUC doesn't work well with the limiters...at all. They don't have enough compression that would allow the limiters to shim properly. I have a set of Lemforder RTAB bushings as well. Lemforder/Limiter route it is.

 

[jrotax101]

perfect!

nice choice on lemforder. that's the only OEM brand I'll put on my car.

 

[Dar-Dar]

perfect!

nice choice on lemforder. that's the only OEM brand I'll put on my car.

I've heard great stuff about Lemforder. The UUC is going up for sale then. Lol. Here it is installed with the limiters.

I'm still having issues removing the output shaft on the passenger side. The driver side came off with a push of a finger. I've torched, hammered, sprayed penetrating fluid and it is still stuck to the hub. I rented a 7 ton puller at AutoZone and will keep a good pressure overnight. Hopefully it comes off.

 

[Dar-Dar]

I got the output shaft out. But the tool took some damage. Lol. Look at the tip of the pushrod.

 

[Dar-Dar]

First injury working on this car. I got a terrible blood blister that's ready to burst. Lol. It's hard to grip anything at the moment. It doesn't help that I'm also a lefty...

 

[Dar-Dar]

Rear End: Part 3

I put a bead of the Red rtv gasket for the speed sensor to ensure zero leaks. I think I was supposed to get a new o ring, but this will suffice.
The drain plugs were coated with a few sprays of high heat paint.
The differential looks so good now.
I spent so many hours cleaning this area. I used a ton of degreaser and Dawn dish soap. Lol. The rusty areas were sanded down and treated using OSPHO.Truck bed liner was then sprayed after applying POR15 on the rusty spots. I used two cans of the Duplicolor truck bed liner. The rear wheel wells were coated as well.
And more POR15 on the rear upper control arms this time.
The rear subframe is ready to go in!!!

And mounting is complete!!! The mounting bolts are new and I had to get a pair of 140mm bolts from a E90 for the front of the subframe since the front stock bolts won't work on the polyurethane bushings.

All I have left are installing the rear wheel bearings and putting everything back on!!!

 

[bauer311]

You've really done a lot of work to this ol gal. It looks great!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[Dar-Dar]

In addition to the trailing arms. Besides adding new bushings and limiters, I welded reinforcement plates on the trailing arm mounts.

My welds were a bit messy since I'm not used to welding in super tight spaces. They'll be hidden anyway.

 

[Dar-Dar]

You've really done a lot of work to this ol gal. It looks great!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Thanks! Hopefully, I get to drive it by next week!

I can't wait to feel the difference with this upgrade!