Lucille aka Der Weiße Teufel

ElDiabloBlanco said:
This blow chunks... I've already ordered another pair of Spyder 2014-2015 Honda Civic Coupe Fog Lights - Yellow.

This time I am looking into one of Scotchgard 3M products and see if I can find a thick clear coat to install on the lens help reducing cracking, scratching, and breaking the lens. I read somewhere, someone called it "Stonegard". I'm still researching. If anyone know something or have suggestions, feel free to share

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do you happen to own a dremel tool? A number of people have done lexan covers for their fog lights when their fogs crack or break. You essentially just make a paper template for the outline of the foglight area, and then trace that onto a piece of lexan. You can usually get them in like 8x10" sheets at lowes/homedepot for around 10-15 dollars or something. It's essentially super strong/thick plexiglass made to resist impacts. You cut your lexan with a dremel tool and that becomes your new foglight front. After my first fog broke, I cracked my other with a hammer and did both of them with lexan. Never had another broken fog. If you want the yellow, you can get get yellow film to apply on the lexan from just about any vinyl shop or something like grafixpressions.
 
webby said:
do you happen to own a dremel tool? A number of people have done lexan covers for their fog lights when their fogs crack or break. You essentially just make a paper template for the outline of the foglight area, and then trace that onto a piece of lexan. You can usually get them in like 8x10" sheets at lowes/homedepot for around 10-15 dollars or something. It's essentially super strong/thick plexiglass made to resist impacts. You cut your lexan with a dremel tool and that becomes your new foglight front. After my first fog broke, I cracked my other with a hammer and did both of them with lexan. Never had another broken fog. If you want the yellow, you can get get yellow film to apply on the lexan from just about any vinyl shop or something like grafixpressions.
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No, I don't have my own dremel. I can always get one. Is there a tutorial on how to create a lexan cover? I never heard of it nor aware of it. I'm still interested learning how to make one so I can preserve my original OEM fog lights and current old pair of yellow fog lights.
 
ElDiabloBlanco said:
No, I don't have my own dremel. I can always get one. Is there a tutorial on how to create a lexan cover? I never heard of it nor aware of it. I'm still interested learning how to make one so I can preserve my original OEM fog lights and current old pair of yellow fog lights.
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View: https://youtu.be/kL2HivyKl_g


Basically you get all the current fog light broken stuff out of the housing. Then you can make a sizing template from paper or cardboard to the size of the fog opening. I just used a sharpie to copy that paper template to the Lexan and cut it slightly larger with a Dremel. Then I did some tests with the Lexan laying on the fog to see where it needed to be cut more & repeat. Then used the sealant like he shows in the video which you can get at like autozone for a few bucks. Apply some tape to the Lexan and wrap it all up around the fog light to keep pressure on it while the sealant dries. Then you can remove the tape and Lexan protective film. You could apply yellow film on top afterwards if you want that.
 
webby said:

View: https://youtu.be/kL2HivyKl_g


Basically you get all the current fog light broken stuff out of the housing. Then you can make a sizing template from paper or cardboard to the size of the fog opening. I just used a sharpie to copy that paper template to the Lexan and cut it slightly larger with a Dremel. Then I did some tests with the Lexan laying on the fog to see where it needed to be cut more & repeat. Then used the sealant like he shows in the video which you can get at like autozone for a few bucks. Apply some tape to the Lexan and wrap it all up around the fog light to keep pressure on it while the sealant dries. Then you can remove the tape and Lexan protective film. You could apply yellow film on top afterwards if you want that.
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Oh sweet ! Since I already ordered a new pair of fog lights, I'm saving the old ones to practice and experiment with Lexan and see how I can make it look. Thanks for this gem tutorial, @webby ! I appreciate it. When I do it, I'll take pictures and share my experience.
 
The last 2 out of 4 packages total arrived just now. Now I can do my radar detector wire concealment and hardwired project over the weekend !

I gotta thank and give credit to @bootyluvr for using his magic once again and getting my packages here already ! ;)

package.jpg
 
So I recently made a huge purchase last week:

Products Purchased
------------------------------------------------------
1 x SiriMoto N1 Brake Accessories Kit (Speed Bleeder Set with Fire Sleeve)

1 x SiriMoto Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit (Front and Rear)

1 x Mishimoto Radiator Cap
Application: Universal (1.3 Bar)

1 x TEIN Flex Z Full Coilovers
Application: Honda Civic - 2014 to 2015 - 2 Door Coupe [Si] (With Front Pillow-Ball Upper Mounts) (Includes Front Camber Plates) (Includes Required Knuckle Brackets)

1 x Skunk2 Rear Camber Kit
Application: Honda Civic - 2012 to 2015 - All [All] (Gold Anodized) (Improved / Revised Version 3)

1 x Progress Rear Sway Bar - 22mm

I received every part except for stainless steel brake line. It has been backordered and I'm in no rush putting it on soon. I haven't put any parts on the car yet. I'm planning on installing both coilovers and camber kit at the same time right before I get new set of tires and alignment. It doesn't make sense going back and forth doing series of alignment. I'm trying to dial it all in one alignment. I'm really excited that my parts are here and after these are installed, I've completed the suspension platform and I can move on and focus on other aspects like motor mounts, clutch master & slave cylinder, etc. I recently had a transmission fluid exchange at a local Honda Dealership.

The only maintenance I have left to do on Lucille is brake and coolant fluid exchange. I'm planning on replacing the OEM radiator hoses with Acuity silicone hoses. Once my SS brake lines gets here, I'll do the brake fluid exchange. Should I stick with DOT3 or go with DOT4?

I'm assuming the coilovers kit are already pre-set before it was packed? I understand coilovers are .5"-1" lower than OEM struts. It is my first time installing and working with coilovers. I do not want to make any rookie mistakes or increase the chance of hurting myself and the car's mechanism. Any tips and advises are welcome.

Also since I'll be lowering my car soon enough, I am looking at K-Tuned Crash Bar. I definitely like to get it as an insurance protecting Lucille's oil pan. My question is since I already installed a Sirimoto front tie bar, is the front tie bar in the way or installed where the crash bar needs to be install?

Since I got my Progress RSB22mm. Do I need to replace/upgrade the bushings, mounts, and links? I do drive hard and I like to be sure I'm getting whatever it is I need in order to withstand the amount of pressure I put on Lucille.

I'm noticing couple of us are experiencing issues with our clutch and shifter. I am in that circle too. Since I have hearing loss and I cannot hear any noise coming from the clutch. I explained the symptoms of the clutch pedal as a gate hinge groaning. When the car is park and in neutral, when the clutch pedal is depress, it doesn't groan at all. When I'm in 1st-4th gear, the pedal groans. It barely groan in 5th and it is quiet in 6th. Couple weeks ago, three separated times when I shifted 2nd to 3rd, I get a grind noise as if I released the clutch early. I'm told it is possible the clutch bearing is going bad... Now I'm seeing it is possible that I need to upgrade the clutch master/slave cylinder. I do not want to make any assumption and spend money on upgrades and expect it to alleviate any issues I just described. I like to diagnose this properly and focus on what I need to eliminate the issue.
 
i was having issues awhile back sorta like how you’re describing but it was at high rpm like exactly @7 grand. i moved my seat up one click and started just being more precise when shifting at high rpm. Because with me id try and do the movement really fast but i slow’d the movement down a bit and things have been goong well. i think it was partially psychological lol
 
JesseFB6 said:
i was having issues awhile back sorta like how you’re describing but it was at high rpm like exactly @7 grand. i moved my seat up one click and started just being more precise when shifting at high rpm. Because with me id try and do the movement really fast but i slow’d the movement down a bit and things have been goong well. i think it was partially psychological lol
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I even adjusted and maximized my Acuity shifter's knob height from 3 to 5 today. It seems to be more forgiven. Though I did struggle shifting between 1st to 2nd and 5th to 6th recently. I'm not getting smooth transition since I feel as if I'm hitting gaps in between gear instead of sliding into each gear naturally and smoothly. Ever since I got my short shifter, it is when I'm beginning to noticed the issues.

By the way, can anyone take the time explaining to me what gate is when it comes to Acuity Short Shifter? I have not fiddle around with the gate and throw adjustment yet. I like to understand and getting myself familiarize with my short shifter better.
 
correct me if I'm wrong but does acuity define gate as left to right movement? The shift springs are suppose to tighten up the gate. So you can adjust both up/down, left,right movement.
 
Yeah, looks like it just makes it narrower or wider depending on the setting.


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The post I made above was kinda confusing. The shift selector springs are for the lever assembly in the trans. They stiffen ur gate movement. While gate distance is adjustable on the shifter itself.
 
i would just go dot4, better fluid and compatible with dot3 if mixed.

not sure if the coils will be adjusted out of the box but they usually come with instructions on how to set them. advantage of the flex z is your height adjustment is with the shock body instead of the spring, so you can set spring pre load and keep a nice ride. one thing i hate about my street basis coil overs. all of that should be in the instruction or readily available online.
 
Guten Morgen, 9thcivic.com members and shadow lurkers !!!

It has been a while since I've worked on my car and posted anything here. Last month on the 3rd of August, I made a huge purchase for Lucille. Plus I was getting closer and closer in need for new set of tires and alignment. I figured to save up, purchase and have all of the remaining suspension parts installed all at once right before I get new tires and alignment. I wanted to dial everything in one labor and not having to make several trips to align the car and pay every time. (I'm aware of Firestone offering lifetime alignment.)


I ordered:

1x Skunk2 Rear Camber Kit
1x TEIN Flex Z Full Coilovers
1x SiriMoto Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit
1x SiriMoto N1 Brake Accessories Kit
1x Mishimoto Radiator Cap
1x Progress Rear Sway Bar 22mm

I got everything on August 6th (yes, 3 days) except for the SS brake line kit. ProCivic has been communicative with me about the delay. As long as I'm being taken care of as a customer, it is all that matters the most to me in the end. I'm willing to wait as long as there is communication between the vendor and I. (@webby , great call out when you advised us all to call or email the vendor to see whether products are in stock or not)

It took me almost a month to finally find the time and energy to put the parts together. It has been stupid hot here in Arizona. Plus my daughter is back in school and I help her as much as I can. Last Saturday August 29th was a perfect time for me catching up on the car. I've finally installed everything in one day plus In 'N Out for lunch. My good friend allowed me using his garage. He has a 20" industrial fan and a portable AC. I brought two of my Stanley Dry Wall Fans. We had enough fans plus cold air to keep us both cool in the garage.

Packages.jpeg Aftermarket Parts.jpeg Skunk2 Camber Kit Box.jpeg Skunk2 Camber Kit Anodized Gold.jpegTime for new shoes.jpeg

The labor isn't intimidated at all nor was it time consuming than I anticipated. It all could be done in 5 hours top. The labor is pretty straightforward and easier than I thought. My buddy and I were taking our sweet time, catching up, eating, and working on the car.

Rear Coilovers Tein.jpeg Installed.jpeg Front Coilovers Tein.jpeg Progress Rear Sway Bar 22mm.jpeg

After all of the parts were installed on Saturday evening, I took Lucille to my local Honda Dealership yesterday (August 31st) to get her new shoes and alignment. She is now sporting the same set of shoes last time. Continental DWS 06. OMFGoodness... Lucille handles like a dream. I'm still not used to how she feels with her new coilovers and rear camber kit. She feels stiffer than her OEM suspension. On my way back on the freeway, I decided to test the suspension and how it feels by shaking the steering wheel. No matter how violent I shook the steering wheel, Lucille stays in her line and she barely rolls. I was really impressed. The nose dive has been eliminated. Body rolls are eliminated when I change lanes. I'm looking forward to my daily drive. :)
 
While Lucille was sitting on OEM shocks and struts, I was able to put three fingers in the gap between the fender and tire. After installing the coilovers on the first night, I barely could put two fingers in the gap. Now she has settled, I can only fit a finger in between.

Here is before and after:

BEFORE
Before Front.jpeg Before Rear.jpeg

AFTER
After Front.jpeg After Rear.jpeg
 
That drop looks killer man!

Did you drill the hole in the RSB mount for the second bolt?
 
fahnix said:
That drop looks killer man!

Did you drill the hole in the RSB mount for the second bolt?
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She is a beaut !

If I remember correctly. According to the manual, it says if the car is a Si, ignore the extra hardware. If it is a non-Si, go ahead and follow the instruction and use the hardware that came with the RSB. It was a straight installation and no extra labor other than installing the bar in.
 
You may wanna check that again. That's what I thought but then re-read the instructions.

You don't have to use the backing plate. You still needed to drill the holes on the reinforcement plate. Step 4 and 5 were what you didn't need to do, but if you see at the end of step 3 it says go to step 6 which is drilling holes in the reinforcement plate.


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Here you can see in step 8 (red circles) where that top hole has a bolt through it now.

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It seems like quite a number of people missed this step. The wording is a little funny in that it makes you think you can ignore that plate, but if you read though a couple of times you'll see that they totally meant for all installs to use the reinforcement plate, but only non-Si needed to use the backing plate because they don't have both sets of holes in the right place for the bushing to mount to. (as seen in step 4.)
 
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