When I first rebuilt the car it had new keys and immobilizer, without them programmed the car would run for 2-10 seconds and then stall. So I don't think that is it. With the new ecu installed and not programmed the car wouldn't run at all, that is what I expected. I just expected the scan tool...
So I bought a new Honda ECU... when I installed it, the car would crank but not run. This was my expectation going into this, as the ecu had not been programmed. The thing that I did not expect was the scan tool would still not communicate. Is this normal? I would not think it has to be...
Using a o2 sensor socket takes any wizardry out of the equation. After you get the socket on the sensor install the ratchet and loosen the sensor. You are doing it blind but you can feel when a socket is in place and you shouldn't need to look at a ratchet to operate one.
I have been to cheap/lazy and holding hope that my friends at Honda will come through with the computer access/factory scan tool. From what I understand there scan tool has a much better likelihood of connecting due to its redundancy. My scan tool has no battery and does turn on upon being...
All grounds have been verified all fuses have been verified. I am about out of ideas, this coming up weekend I think I have a tech willing to help out a bit. I currently do not have access to ALLDATA, anyone has any troubleshooting ideas/paths, post away.
Thank you Darkout for the comment, "It's pretty standard across all cars though for DLC wiring, hence generic scan tools. Common cause for no power at the DLC (if you have that concern) is a blown power port/cigarette lighter fuse as they usually share the same fuse." That made me think of...
ECU is what I am hoping they are only $300ish dollars new + a bit for programming. I own the scan tool that I mentioned in my first post, so it is the same one that won't connect that previously would. I will check the DLC stuff also, trying to do some research on the DLC... What pins are power...
I haven't messed with the wiring to much so far... I have disconnected and reconnected everything inside of the car, no change, now I am off to the engine bay. All wiring looks good, as it should, because it is essentially brand new (Just over 1 year old and 5k miles).
Also today the car...
So I bought my 2012 Si with 3 original miles, still in the wrapper. Now I am just over 5000 miles and I ran into a bunch of electrical issues, hopefully one issue with many symptoms. My car is a rebuilt flood car from Hurricane Sandy, all work was done by myself, with an exception of the...
The Skunk2 DP makes a noise for the first 30 seconds after start-up. From what I understand it is kinda normal with the DP. As fas as what you are asking about, it sounds like something maybe loose/rubbing.
My map light wouldn't work and this is what it took to fix it... It was a brand new, hurricane sandy, car so I bought it, stripped it down and replaced/powdercoated anything that water could damage.
I removed mine once... but the car was down to a mostly bare chassis. At that point I didn't really pay to much attention to how long it took to remove the cowl. If it only takes 10 minutes I would probably remove it from the top just for easy access after the cowl is off.
I removed the stock down pipe and O2 sensors and installed the new Skunk2 downpipe without removing the cowl or anything else. The only tools I used were a deep well O2 sensor socket, a standard Craftsman 3/8 ratchet handle, and standard Craftsman sockets. No deepwell sockets or extensions were...
Good right up. For what it is worth I removed the stock down pipe and O2 sensors and installed the new Skunk2 downpipe without removing the cowl or anything else. And the only tools I used were a deep well O2 sensor socket, a standard Craftsman 3/8 ratchet handle, and standard Craftsman sockets...