DIY 2012+ Civic Si - How to change your oil

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Michiana
Vehicle Model
Toyota MR2 Spyder
Body Style
Convertible
Tools Needed:

Oil filter wrench/remover of your choice
Jack and jack stands or ramps
Oil drain pan
Funnel
17mm socket
Torque wrench

Supplies Needed:
4.4 quarts of 0W-20 oil
Oil filter (part number/size will depend on brand you choose)
Rag
New crush type washer for oil drain pan bolt

Optional:
14x1.5 Magnetic drain bolt/14mm socket (if putting a magnetic drain bolt in)

oil1.sized.jpeg


Steps:
1. Jack car up and put it on stands or use ramps.
See the following thread for details if necessary:
http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/2...your-car-and-where-to-place-jack-stands.5759/)

2. Release hood by pulling latch inside the driver’s side door under the dash.

oil2.sized.jpeg


3. Prop up hood by using one of the two locations as shown below.

oil3.sized.jpeg


4. Locate oil dipstick (left) and oil filler cap (right).

oil4.sized.jpeg

Remove oil filler cap and set it off to the side.

oil5.sized.jpeg

5. Locate the oil drain pan bolt and oil filter.

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Place oil drain pan under both the drain plug and filter. Make sure you allot for how far out the oil will arc at first.

6. Loosen (only) the oil drain pan bolt with the 17mm socket. Finish removing the bolt with your fingers. Due to the placement of the oil filter on this engine you will need to wait for the oil to drain first and then put the drain pan bolt back in with a new washer. Do not tighten it all the way right now.

7. Remove the oil filter with the wrench/remover of your choice. Make sure the drain pan is underneath the filter as oil will come out. See pics below for my preference of remover. I find that most traditional wrenches are too small to really grip the small filters used on Civics.

oil7.jpeg


oil8.jpeg


8. Before putting the new oil filter on, make sure you dip your finger in some of the new oil and lube up the ring seal on the filter. I have marked a little section to show the difference with and without oil on the seal. Screw on and tighten by hand.

oil9.sized.jpeg

To be continued in next post...
 
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9. Torque the drain pan bolt to 29ft-lbs and the oil filter to 9ft-lbs. (installed parts seen in pic below)

oil10.sized.jpeg


10. Using the funnel, put 4.4 quarts of oil in slowly and put oil filler cap back on when done.

oil11.sized.jpeg


11. Lower the car and start it up for a minute or so. It is important to let the car run and keep it level in order to accurately measure how the oil level.

12. Remove the oil dipstick and wipe it off with a rag. Put it back in and take it out again. Now make sure that the level falls between both dots. If not add half a quart or so and check again. When reading the dipstick, make sure that you do not turn it upside down as it will skew the reading. Due to the nature of how thin 0W-20 oil is, it is actually quite hard to see exactly where the level is unless you are in a well lit area. The yellow line shows where my level was.

oil12.sized.jpeg


13. Start the car again and check to make sure the oil light does not come on. If they do come on, they would be inside the yellow circle.

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Additional notes:
I put in a magnetic oil drain pan bolt as a precaution to catch any potential metal shavings that the filter may not catch. You may notice that the washer is also not a crush type as the magnetic drain bolt comes with a plastic type washer. I have never had any problems with the plastic style washer as I have used them in the past. I will change it out with a crush style after the initial change to the magnetic drain bolt, though. The size of the bolt is 14x1.5. The head of the bolt is 14mm and not 17mm like the stock bolt, but the thread size is what is important and does match up.

Also, after a few days, I always double check the oil level to see if it is low or not and I also check the drain bolt for leaks.

To reset your oil life display :
oil_001.png


As always, if anybody has any questions, let me know.
 
webby said:
also, added instructions for resetting the oil life meter at the end of your post.
Click to expand...

Good thinking. As I did not have to do that, I didn't even think of it.
 
To reset your oil life display :
oil_001.png


SQUIGGY! Im sorry but Im a noob here, I reset my oil life display thru "i-MID" and not SEL/RESET knob is there a difference? Also I used 5w-30 instead 0w-20 because of harsh environment here in vegas! Please reply thanks
 
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dane9thgen said:
To reset your oil life display :
oil_001.png


SQUIGGY! Im sorry but Im a noob here, I reset my oil life display thru "i-MID" and not SEL/RESET knob is there a difference? Also I used 5w-30 instead 0w-20 because of harsh environment here in vegas! Please reply thanks
Click to expand...


If there is another way to reset it, that is news to me. Check it in a few weeks to see if it drops below 100%. If that is the case, you will be fine and have discovered an alternate way of resetting the meter.

As far as the weight, I am by no means that well versed in the differences. May go to the following links and pose the question and see if you get some bites:

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/oil-of-choice.2908/
http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/oil-analyzers-12-100-miles.6759/

Also, Bruce Bartlow is quite knowledgable about oil.
 
squiggy said:
If there is another way to reset it, that is news to me. Check it in a few weeks to see if it drops below 100%. If that is the case, you will be fine and have discovered an alternate way of resetting the meter.

As far as the weight, I am by no means that well versed in the differences. May go to the following links and pose the question and see if you get some bites:

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/oil-of-choice.2908/
http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/oil-analyzers-12-100-miles.6759/

Also, Bruce Bartlow is quite knowledgable about oil.
Click to expand...



Awesome thank you for the link! yeah i guess it's the same

http://oilreset.com/blog/?p=230
Some models might be equipped with a multi information display (MID) in which case the following procedure should be followed:
1) Turn the ignition switch to position II (do not start the engine).
2) Bring up the Vehicle Menu screen by pressing Menu located on the left side of steering wheel.
3) Select Vehicle Information with the (+) button followed by pressing the Source button.
4) Press the Source button again to go to the Maintenance Info screen.
5) Press the Source button to display the Oil Life % Indicator.
6) Select Yes with the (-) button then press the Source button. The indicator will reset to 100%
7) Turn the vehicle off.
 
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Do you have to have the washer for the drain plug? Ive never done an oil change on a vehicle with a washer on the drain plug
 
I have done it with and without. If you don't use one, just keep an eye out for potential leaks.
 
It's a crush washer. You're supposed to replace it on oil changes. I have done a change here and there without replacing it though. You can buy them in packs at any dealership parts counter.
 
webby said:
It'll cost you a dollar... but yes. ;)
Click to expand...

It already did.. This post looks great.
talking about d-i-y, a garage is so desirable not just to keep tools managed but because it always rains in my area during weekends..
 
Very well done DIY .......... As usual I do have a suggestion on the drain plug reinstall, I would be fearful to do the plug in 2 stages, least it is forgotten to go back and tighten/torque........ If the plug is off you'll know it.

Never did a plug without a crush ring........
 
Monk said:
Very well done DIY .......... As usual I do have a suggestion on the drain plug reinstall, I would be fearful to do the plug in 2 stages, least it is forgotten to go back and tighten/torque........ If the plug is off you'll know it.

Never did a plug without a crush ring........
Click to expand...


I don't do it initially due to the juggling of tools and the tight space working under ramps/jack stands. I always double-check torque on ALL bolts before packing up...except that one time I forgot to tighten some lugs on a wheel after I dropped the car. :confused:

As far as that washer, every time I have bought the magnetic plugs, I use them initially. I have never had a leak with them. I put a crush washer on during the first change afterwards.
 
squiggy said:
I don't do it initially due to the juggling of tools and the tight space working under ramps/jack stands. I always double-check torque on ALL bolts before packing up...except that one time I forgot to tighten some lugs on a wheel after I dropped the car. :confused:

As far as that washer, every time I have bought the magnetic plugs, I use them initially. I have never had a leak with them. I put a crush washer on during the first change afterwards.
Click to expand...

I learned the hard way on my integra, didn't use a crush washer and it leaked, put one on and after that no worries
 
I'm like that(double checking), but there are a lot of peeps that don't tighten that bolt...... I learned as a kid, because my Brother blow a engine for the lack of tightening the drain plug........ I've sometime have used the same crush ring over(once), but usually buy a bag of them.

I haven't done this car yet, but I thought there was a plate covering that area?
 
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