Autocross alignment

Stan Dorobek

Active Member
6
1
Hello everyone I own a 13 civic si and looking to do some auto crossing. I have autocrossed in the past with my rx8. I currently running stock everything besides tires. Running 225/45/17 rivals. Soon I'll be putting a rear sway bar in and over the winter purchasing koni struts. My biggest question is what alignment setup works best with my car.
 
This should work unless you plan to redo the alignment before and after an event.


Street "Aggressive"
Front Camber: -1.4°
(1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole at max adjustment setting.)
Front Toe: 0 toe
(0 toe is factory setting but also a good aggressive street spec. Or you can try a hair of toe out, but generally toe out will destroy tires fast as a daily driver.)
Rear Camber: -1.5°
(provides better rear grip for extreme handling. Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.)
Rear Toe: 0.08° (a positive number is toe in)
(on the more aggressive end of the available factory range.)
 
Ok thanks i
This should work unless you plan to redo the alignment before and after an event.


Street "Aggressive"
Front Camber: -1.4°
(1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole at max adjustment setting.)
Front Toe: 0 toe
(0 toe is factory setting but also a good aggressive street spec. Or you can try a hair of toe out, but generally toe out will destroy tires fast as a daily driver.)
Rear Camber: -1.5°
(provides better rear grip for extreme handling. Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.)
Rear Toe: 0.08° (a positive number is toe in)
(on the more aggressive end of the available factory range.)
 
Ok thanks. I guess I should have mentioned. I'm running in a street stock class right now. So all im aloud to do is adjust alignment with stock suspension besides struts and one aftermarket bar. So should I just max out the front camber I doubt I'll get -1.4. Then run a Lil toe out on the front and a Lil toe in on the rear?
 
Ok thanks. I guess I should have mentioned. I'm running in a street stock class right now. So all im aloud to do is adjust alignment with stock suspension besides struts and one aftermarket bar. So should I just max out the front camber I doubt I'll get -1.4. Then run a Lil toe out on the front and a Lil toe in on the rear?

You cannot adjust the camber front or back without buying bolts for the the front and arms for the back.
 
Really? I knew about the rear but I figured there would be an adjustment for the front camber. Damn honda. Lol
 
You could loosen the two lower strut bolts and push or pull the spindle in the direction you want for a minimal movement. I've had to correct some pull concerns this way when there's no adjustment from factory.
 
You could set it up the way @squiggy recommended and just move up into a class that will accept your mods.......... You're racing a clock anyway..... might as well set it the why you want it, and don't worry about who you beat, you'll also find the better the class the better you'll get in a shorter period of time.
 
Eventually that will happen I just don't have the money for it right now but I need seat time so I'm going to try to set it up the best I can with what I have
 
More negative camber in front, less in the rear. The car will gain negative camber in the rear if it is lowered or as the suspension compresses under load. The front is a camber challenged mac strut setup. Get as much neg as you can in the front. HFP suspension kit..... little bit of low, its a factory option, gain some neg in the rear from lowering.

If you only have one set of wheels/tires to drive around on I would not get too aggressive with the numbers unless you want to buy tires often. A compromise can be had. Set the toe as close to 0 as you can. It'll save your tires the most. In all honesty if you are driving this car everyday you probably won't notice slight toe in/out on competition days unless a lot of other stuff has been done to the car.

In your street stock class, I think the HFP suspension counts as "stock." Thats a great way to upgrade the suspension and still stay in class. Yes the Konis are awesome but the HFP kit is pretty nice as a complete package and you get lowering springs included so hopefully that maintains the "stock" aspect.

The car will understeer hard. A larger rear sway helps a ton with this. If you could set the alignment you can reduce it more with less rear camber and more front. For sticking to the stock class just loosen the bolts in front and try to pull as much negative camber as you can.
 
This should work unless you plan to redo the alignment before and after an event.


Street "Aggressive"
Front Camber: -1.4°
(1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole at max adjustment setting.)
Front Toe: 0 toe
(0 toe is factory setting but also a good aggressive street spec. Or you can try a hair of toe out, but generally toe out will destroy tires fast as a daily driver.)
Rear Camber: -1.5°
(provides better rear grip for extreme handling. Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.)
Rear Toe: 0.08° (a positive number is toe in)
(on the more aggressive end of the available factory range.)

Would this be "too aggressive" for a daily driver set up? Would normal tire wear be affected significantly with -1.5 camber?
 
Would this be "too aggressive" for a daily driver set up? Would normal tire wear be affected significantly with -1.5 camber?

It is how I have mine set and I think it is perfect. I have not noticed any significant wear on my tires as of yet.
 
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I run -1.3 camber front/rear and I have no tire wear issue whats so ever so far with only about 40% usable tread left on new tires when it was aligned, practically same toe as @squiggy.
 
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