Brake replacement

N

ndowens

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I am planning to replace my front brake pads myself. I am more of a tech person and not an automotive person, but am trying to learn what I can so I do repairs and maintenance on my own.
I've been watching YT videos that would relate to replacing the brake pads and rotors. From the videos I've watched, they mention to compress the brake caliper pistons and not to open the brake line, as it should not let air into the braking system.
I was watching a video from power stop and they also compressed the piston but later said to bleed the brakes, which is what confuses me, as I thought as long as I don't open the brake line, and just compress the caliper piston, I should not have to bleed the brakes?

Side question, which brand of rotor and pads do you guys recommend? I am looking at rockauto atm and thought about powerstop?
 
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it's not required, but some people do it when they do brakes and put new fluid in. Most people tend to go with brembo blank rotors or oem. @Tak had some warping on his drilled/slotted powerstop if I'm not mistaken.
 
webby said:
it's not required, but some people do it when they do brakes and put new fluid in. Most people tend to go with brembo blank rotors or oem. @Tak had some warping on his drilled/slotted powerstop if I'm not mistaken.
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Hmm well I don't see that brand listed on rockauto for my year and model of civic. I've seen centric, raybestos, durango and bendix. At first I was thinking of napa premium rotors, but they are a bit pricey and didn't know how well those are either.
 
Bleeding the brakes and cracking open the bleeder valve while pushing the piston back is two different things.

First: opening the bleeder valve or not while pushing back is the piston: "Correct" way is to open the bleeder valve, as you are pushing the piston back there may be contaminates in the line and you "can" push these containments into the abs module which can clog the module and fail. Now if you do this way I would suggest getting some 3/8" or 1/4" clear "fish tank" lines or I know my AutoZone has some to minimize the mess and a empty water/gatorade bottle. Now do I do it this way? No, but I "Flush" my brakes after each pad change. I flush because I have a fancy Motive Power Bleeder thingy with the correct Honda master cylinder adapter from Power Probe - no affiliation.

Bleeding is to get any air out of the lines and does necessary remove some contaminants. Flushing uses a lot more brake fluid but your whole system has fresh brake fluid. Bleeding removes a little bit of fluid but it is to remove any air which may be in the lines. Going back to flushing, for me it's a personal preference because how easy and quick I can get it done but also I do see contaminants at the brake line to caliper area when I flush every 2 years on all the cars I own. Also brake fluid is hydroscopic so it absorbs moisture and they recommend changing brake fluid every 3 years...

I use AutoZone ceramic brake pads because they have the lifetime warranty, when they wear down take them back and replace for free. I do notice they do not last as long as oem tho but I am hard on my brakes. Never buy "drilled" rotors they will crack, you can get slotted if you like the look but they say it can cause the brake pads to wear faster... maybe that's my problem. I like using R1Concepts geomet because they usually run 30% off if you wait about a month for it to pop up, and I think their prices are fair and I have not had any problems. Really any rotors should be good just not drilled, you can even take it to a brake place and they can turn the rotor for about $20/piece if its still in specs. FYI O'Reillys near me turns them but they are expensive, find a shop if you go this route.

Another tip when you remove the sliding bolts for the caliper, completely undo the bottom one and crack the top one lose. The caliper should flip up, this is more convenient then removing the whole caliper. Remove the pads, push the piston back in and flop it back down.
 
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If I am not mistaken, you're saying to open the bleeder while I am pushing in the piston correct?

I am leaning toward bleeding the brakes, though I may not flush the system. I may get a vacuum bleeder to help bleed the brakes. Is there any thing special I have to do on this civic as it has ABS?
 
I was taught to open the bleeder when you push back the piston. Just a 1/4 turn or so is all you need. Nothing special with or without abs. They recommend starting from the furthest wheel from the master cylinder, I believe its the passenger's rear wheel? If memory serves me correct, if not then it's the drivers rear... Always top off the master cylinder with brake fluid before bleeding. The small container of brake fluid should be enough for you since you are not using a lot anyways.

Just from my experience, I tired using one of those vacuum pumps and you hand pump it at the brake caliper. It was a pain in my *** to use. The other option is to use a gatorade bottle, fill maybe a 1/2" of it will brake fluid, stick the clear tubing (I mentioned earlier) all the way down so the tip is covered with brake fluid (not exposed to air), crack the bleeder line and pump away with the brake pedal. Having one end of the clear tubing submerged in the brake fluid should create a "seal" so you are not sucking air through this line.

if you get brake fluid on anything you will need to rinse off the area really good with water, brake fluid will eat paint
 
freggie said:
I was taught to open the bleeder when you push back the piston. Just a 1/4 turn or so is all you need. Nothing special with or without abs. They recommend starting from the furthest wheel from the master cylinder, I believe its the passenger's rear wheel? If memory serves me correct, if not then it's the drivers rear... Always top off the master cylinder with brake fluid before bleeding. The small container of brake fluid should be enough for you since you are not using a lot anyways.

Just from my experience, I tired using one of those vacuum pumps and you hand pump it at the brake caliper. It was a pain in my *** to use. The other option is to use a gatorade bottle, fill maybe a 1/2" of it will brake fluid, stick the clear tubing (I mentioned earlier) all the way down so the tip is covered with brake fluid (not exposed to air), crack the bleeder line and pump away with the brake pedal. Having one end of the clear tubing submerged in the brake fluid should create a "seal" so you are not sucking air through this line.

if you get brake fluid on anything you will need to rinse off the area really good with water, brake fluid will eat paint
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Thank you for the help, I think I will do the later, hand-made version :)
 
Looking at centric, on which it fits Mexico front; CVT(automatic); LX model. SO this should fit correct? I am in the USA and my car is LX version, and looking at advance auto, it also lists 282mm
 
Oem front rotors are 10.3 inches on the LX trim in the United States. That equates to 262mm if they're displaying it in mm.
 
webby said:
Oem front rotors are 10.3 inches on the LX trim in the United States. That equates to 262mm if they're displaying it in mm.
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The ones centric ones shown on rockauto shows 262 mm for manual trans, while I have automatic?

Edit: went with they raybestos rotor and said for both auto and manual trans and my lx trim; which is the size you mentioned
 
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