DIY Door Storage Compartment lights

Pauly99to17

Well-Known Member
9,176
6,578
Ville de Quebec
Vehicle Model
2012 LX
Body Style
Dyno Blue Pearl Sedan (FB2)
I added an LED bulb to each door compartment and they are wired to a light switch button. I also added my dash/console lighting to this circuit so it can be controlled by the switch too. Before now this dash/console light was wired to the 12 Volt plug behind shifter and always turned on....see my other DIY here: http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/console-led-lighting.6603/

I certainly am no expert. I just had the idea and then figured everything out. Had some help from AlienPrime for the switch (You will see a link to his OEM 5 pin switch DIY below)This DIY is not all that difficult providing you have three things
1) The proper tools (Ex. a soldering iron,a Dremmel drill)
2) The OEM 5 pin switch plug (*More info. about this below)
3) Patience. Don't expect to have results within minutes.

The cost is about $40. Figure about 4 or 5 hours altogether, depending on how quickly you work.

***Following this DIY is at your own risk, neither I, nor this site, its owner or staff are responsible for any damage to your car or injuries.

Needed Materials


*Many of these materials are available at your local electronics shop (Ex.LED bulbs, marettes, resistors, wire). If you are patient enough to wait for shipping, you can order the materials from eBay and save a few bucks, but hardly seems worth it IMO. Plus, if you have any questions the electro-pros can help you out while you're getting everything.

2 LED lights - 5 mm (or bigger if you want brighter light) - Get the type that diffuses the light, not the type that focuses light. You might want to pick up a 3rd one to add to the center panel. (?) Careful: LED bulbs with a blue condom over the bulb have a slightly different shade of blue than the blue LED bulbs that have a clear look. I suggest you get both to see which you prefer. *Important Update: See post #17 in this thread for an excellent bulb option!
(Bulb with resistor and wire already attached! No soldering needed if you go with this option!)


1 package of Ring Terminals for connecting to the ground bolt. (Only need 1 or 2 of these rings depending how you ground). Get the 1/4 " ones.
2 clip on bulb holders - 5 mm (Mine are black)
2 Resistors - 220 ohms - these will bring the voltage down from 12 Volts to 4 Volts (See "Important Update" above)
25 feet of wire is enough for doors. I got a little more because I had the console light to wire up too. I used 20 gauge wire.
1 OEM light switch button
(http://www.collegehillshondaparts.c..._in=all&search_str=08E10-TA0-1M035&make=honda)

*1 green plug for OEM switch Unavailable to buy separately (must buy ambient light kit $120 etc.) so check the auto wreckers. Not difficult to find.
***If you cannot find the plug then you will need to solder the wires to the 5 pins on the switch. See @AlienPrime's DIY: http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/diy-honda-5-pin-magic-switch.6478/

1 Fuse Tap (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-ADD-A-CIR..._Video_Fuses_Fuse_Holders&hash=item337f274430)

1 package of marettes to attach wiring
Some "filler metal" aka solder metal (*See "Important Update" above)
Some Electrical Tape
Some Duct tape
Some black Zip ties


*Only 1 resistor showing in pic....need two.
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*Although not necessary I highly recommend you buy a 9 Volt battery that you can use to test the bulbs during the different stages of installation to make sure no connections have come loose from moving wires etc.)
***Attention: When testing with this battery you will need to attach a resistor to the circuit or you will overload and pop your LEDs which only take 4 Volts.


Tools I Used

*Soldering iron - See "Important Update" above (I bought one and am learning how....it's not that difficult. Lots of YouTube "How To" videos available) A good one on my other DIY (see link above)
Wire cutter/stripper tool
Dremmel Drill (a basic one will do the job) *Note a drill will not work because it is too big and you won't be able to get it into the tight space.
Flat head screw driver
Philips screw driver (+)
Good flash light comes in handy
Scissors
Utility blade


Pliers
Socket set to take off ground bolt.

Steps

To begin you will need to measure out and cut your wire. Make sure you leave more for the passengers side door becuase it is farther to connect to the power (fuse box).

*If you bought pre-attached resistor and wire and bulb you can skip over this step. (See "Important Update" above)

Next, solder your resistor and LED bulb to each set of wires. As you can see I am not good at this, but I got the job done and the connections are VERY solid...ha ha In this photo you can see the small black bulb holders as well as the resistors. I was often using my battery to test my connections.
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So, after soldering both I carefully and, as tightly as possible, wrapped each individual connection *seperately* so the positive and negative connections cannot touch which would cause a "short". THEN I wrapped the two wires together so that everything is tight and will fit throught the hole. (Photo below shows completed step) ***NOTE: Nothing can be wider than the outside ring of the black plastic bulb holder.
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Now outside to the car. For those of you with garages...do you realize how lucky you are??!! ha ha
Dremmel drill time. ( IMPORTANT UPDATE: I moved my single LED from the hole in the door and changed it for a small LED light strip to have brighter lights here. I bought a small rectangular LED strip with 3 lights in it. I used 3M tape and attached it on the inside small plastic strip of the door just above the long slit you see in front of the compartment.) Use a pencil and make a little mark where you are going to put the hole. I would suggest that you put the hole close to the corner (see photo). *NOTE: Be VERY careful when drilling. Use a steady hand and be especially careful when the hole is finished that you don't accidentally touch the door plastic when turning the drill off or taking it out. This would leave an unwanted scratch that you would be very upset about. Also be VERY careful not to drill a hole that is too large or your light will end up sliding into the inside door space. You can always make the hole a little bigger, but you can't make it smaller so be patient with this step.
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Thread the wire through hole and lift bottom of door panel wit your fingers so the wire can slide out the bottom. Gently pull all the wire through. Carefully place the light so it sits nicely in hole. If it does not fit well take the wire out and make hole slightly bigger and rethread wire.



Now you just tuck wire under plastic panel up to the door hinge opening. You may want to add small pieces of duct tape to keep wire from slipping back out from under panel.

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Next, lift rubber door seal and feed under.


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Put wire behind moving hinge (wire is actually in front in this photo) and lift rubber seal with screw driver. The little white plastic has a rounded hook thing pointing downwards. I used a screw driver and needle nose pliers to do this "operation". I only undid 1 of these little hook things: the top one you can see above my screwdriver.

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Inside the rubber seal there is a white plastic casing the you can pry forward with your screwdriver. In order to get your new wire in and make the rubber seal go back on as close as to the normal position as possible, I decided to use the Dremmel drill (what a great tool!) and shaved some of the plastic away on the white casing. I did this alone, but if you have a friend who could help you help out for this step that would be great: Friend can hold the white plastic casing out and away from the car and keep the rubber seal and wires away from the Dremmel drill.
***Caution: Be extra careful to not touch any of the wires behind where you are drilling. It might be a good idea to put a thin peice of metal of wood (Ex. a paint stir stick) behind so you can't touch these wires.

Here is the before picture of the white plastic casing...
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Here is the after picture with the notch for the wire to go in.


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Feed the wire through the top of the bunch of wires. This part may take some patience. The hole is not that large so it may take a couple attempts before you find it. ("That's what she said!!") Once you are able to feed the wire in, just keep feeding it in until you are able to see it under the dash.


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I used zip ties to keep the wire out of the way and give a clean look.
You may want to use small pieces of duct tape at the bottom (under the door panel) to keep the wire in place. You can lift the panel a little bit and apply the tape to the wire then let the panel back down.


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Here is what the bulb looks like. Nice and clean. :dance:

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Here is the Wiring Diagram. I have my LED light strip added to this circuit so it will also be controlled by the switch. If you wanted you could put a third LED bulb in this center panel instead of an LED light strip like I did (3 lights cut off strip). Once again, refer to my other DIY if you are interested to hook up this light too (link at beginning of this DIY).

I am not going to explain in detail how to feed the wires through your dash other than to say it was simple. Just look carefully where the holes are to pass your wires through. I had the advantage of feeding these wires through at night, so I put my light on one side and then went to the other side to have a look. I could see all the holes of where to feed my wire all lit up. :D

The ground bolt that I used is behind the fuse box a little higher up than the top of the fuse box level. You will need your flash light. Move the bunches of wires in this area to the side and you will see the bolt attached to the side metal of the car. There are already 4 other wires grounded to this bolt. Use your 1/4 " ring terminal which fits perfectly onto the ground bolt.

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I would suggest you hook up all your wiring first to make sure everything is working before you go out to the car. Note that you will be plugging your fuse tap into fusebox slot #23 which is an open one. I put one 15 fuse into the tap. There are 2 slots, but you only need to put one fuse into this tap. The fuse goes in the slot closest to the red wire.

Here is my test set-up.
pau1.jpg



Below is the OEM button sitting flush and it clips in perfectly. The light rays symbol can supposedly point down, but i found it easier to put in pointing up. Next time I take this panel off I'm going to have another look at this because I would rather have it pointing down.
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So, all that is left to do is hit the button and enjoy!!! :woot:
Here is what the light pattern looks like after install. I added a small black piece of tape on the top inside part of the bulb to block some of the light.
Before tape....
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After tape....
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Wow, you put a lot more thought into your wiring schematics than i did for leds, i usually just tap into the switched +12 coming off the accessory lighting kit, figuring current draw of a few extra led isnt going to matter much
 
Wow, you put a lot more thought into your wiring schematics than i did for leds, i usually just tap into the switched +12 coming off the accessory lighting kit, figuring current draw of a few extra led isnt going to matter much
for his it's kinda nice tho because it's all switchable at the proper amperage :D
 
Wow, you put a lot more thought into your wiring schematics than i did for leds, i usually just tap into the switched +12 coming off the accessory lighting kit, figuring current draw of a few extra led isnt going to matter much
Ya, don't have accessory kit. I wanted to be able to turn them on and off. My wife doesn't like the lights. :confuzzled:
 
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the accessory kit is switched too, uses the same switch you have right now
 
Do you have a picture or link to this kit? Are you talking about the OEM ambient light kit?
Is the switch 5 pin?
 
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yea the oem ambient light kit, its the 5 pin switch, comes with three lights on its own
 
also has a fused harness that integrates into the accessory bus on the MICU
 
Decent.... much easier though with pre-terminated led's with resistors soldered ready to go with heatshrink tubing and the whole 9 yards....

Like these :

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/100x-5mm-Blu...046?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5895bab80e

Yes, these are great! I didn't know about them or I would have got these for sure. Oh well, I got to practice my soldering skills...haha. I really need the practice! :scratches:

If you order those you'll get one hundred....wow...a guy could really go nuts. :turbospin:
 
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That kit is great because it's plug and play, but the lights are not bright enough from what I've seen and read. (?)
Also, the price tag is a lot higher than what you can do it for. To do an ambient lighting kit like that you would just need to buy one foot of LED strip (they sell it by the foot at the store I go to), the switch and wire. About $20 compared to the CHH kit which costs $90 plus shipping.
The other advantage to doing it this way, although a small one, is that you can turn it on at any time. The headlights do not need to be turned on. If I understand how that kit works correctly. (?)
 
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