<<TW Coupe Si>>

marinse

Well-Known Member
25
52
Hi all, figured I should share the progress I have made after a couple months of owning the car and being part of the forum. It's my daily so I wanted to keep things comfortable.
  • BC Racing coilovers (8K F&R springs)
  • SPC rear camber arms
  • Full HFP body kit
  • PJDM Carbon Fiber gurney flap
  • 17x8.5+40 Volk TE37SL with 215/45/17 Goodyear Sport A/S
  • SOLD: 17x8+25 Regamasters with 215/40/17 Nankangs Noble Sport (this tire was super loud, never again)
  • Clear corner headlight mod
  • 5K HID headlights/fogs (*FYI - fogs will burn out easily because of flicking on/off)
  • LED Amber/White flashback headlight turn signal bulbs
  • Nokya hyper yellow DRL/high beam bulbs
  • F1 style 3rd break light module
  • Red taillight overlay vinyl
I'm also planning to buy a couple more password JDM goodies in the future, including:
  • Carbon fiber side/front splitters
  • Maybe a rear CF diffuser
Let me know what you guys think!
Follow me @sebasmarin on Instagram.


My Si
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


My Si
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


My Si
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


My Si
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


My Si
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


My Si
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


My Si
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


My Si
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


My Si
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr​
 
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Great looking build. It looks really nice, you have some & good pics.
 
How did you do corner light mod?
 
How did you do corner light mod?

Thanks! It's pretty straight forward. You have to open your headlight up, unscrew the orange corner reflector and close the headlight assembly back up.

Here's some instructions I had written on another forum:
Disclaimer: I take zero responsibility if you mess up.

1) Take headlight off the car.
2) Take all the bulbs out as well as the rubber seals for the low/high beams. Remove the large bottom bracket (if you removed it from the car as well).
3) Remove the 4 screws around the edge of the rear of the headlight and 1 screw on the back plate by near the high beam.
4) Preheat kitchen oven to 230 degrees in bake setting - NOT broil.
5) Placing wood planks on the oven (so that plastic doesn't touch metal) place the headlight in the oven and let it bake for 12 minutes.

***Very important that no parts of the headlight touch any metal oven pieces or they will be damaged. I would avoid placing the headlight upside down also as more head would directly hit the front lens.

6) Take the headlight out and rest it on a table with a towel so it keeps it from sliding around.
7) Wearing mechanic gloves and a wide flat screw driver begin opening the headlight apart by easily working your way through the edge (between the transparent front and black rear pieces. Take it nice and easy, you don't want to break any tabs.
***You will see little tabs throughout the edge of the light, DONT'T break them, simply pull them back a little so they release the front.
***IMPORTANT not to let any melted sealant go inside the headlight as it'll get stuck on and won't be easy to remove.
***As you're taking the front and rear apart from each other, conserve the sealant that is being stretched out. You can simply stick it back to the edges where it was stretched from - you will reuse this sealant.

8) Once you have it open, the orange corner will be attached on the clear front of the headlight. You need to take 4 screws out and the reflector and amber corner will pop out.
9) Put the aluminum reflector back in on the front of the headlight with 2 screws.
10) Using a heat gun or your oven again (see step 4 + 5 for only 5 minutes this time) - reheat the sealant around both the rear and front covers of the headlight. You want it to be sticky so it seals properly.
11) Re-assemble the front and back together, make sure all the tabs snap back in, then put the 5 screws back in the headlight.
DONE.
 
Excellent pictures and build your car looks very clean. I wish I knew how to take quality pictures like that.
 
Looking great man. I love how the redouts, amber delete and wheels kind of tie together to produce a cleeaaaaannnnn look!
 
Trading my Regas for TE37SL can't wait to see the outcome! Specs are 17x8.5+40 - do you all think running 225/45 would be an issue? Probably not but I won't be rolling my front fenders again after I replace them so we'll see. I am also raising the car back up to have a 2 or more finger gap.

----

Some shots before I took the wheels off:

My Si by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr

My Si by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr

My Si by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr

Winter mode:

Untitled by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr
 
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Quick update. My TE37SLs got mounted this weekend and I replaced both front fenders back to stock (I didn't like how the fender roll came out).
I raised the car up about 2" while I was at it.

thoughts?

More pictures soon!

tumblr_o3zvy6MIPv1rt2lyyo1_1280.jpg


tumblr_o4093pErSQ1rt2lyyo1_1280.jpg
 
Especially nice on the coupe
 
What are the specs on the volks/tires now? Fenders are not rolled now?
 
What are the specs on the volks/tires now? Fenders are not rolled now?

They're 17x8.5+40 with 215/45 Goodyear Sport A/S. Nope not rolled and fender liner intact. I could do 225s but wanted to be on the safe side.
 
Things to do in the near future are:
- Fix quarters. I pulled them our excessively and regret it 100%. Will need to find a place to get them back to stock soon.
- Paint caliper/hub gloss black.
- Possible low beam mini H1 retrofit project
- Possible carbon fiber winglets from PJDM

All feedback is welcome! More images from the other day:


MyCivicSi_03
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


MyCivicSi_07
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


MyCivicSi_06
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


MyCivicSi_04
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


MyCivicSi_09
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


MyCivicSi_08
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr


MyCivicSi_10
by Sebastian Marin, on Flickr
 
Car does look good man. Whats the regret on the fender pull? They don't look too bad from the pics. I know there are small fender flares you could get. Maybe a small bolt on flare to cover the OEM ones if the lip/edge is damaged. Might be cheaper. The 8th gen mugen RR flares were very slight. It might hide the edge enough for you and flow with the HFP kit. They aren't overbearing like the rocket bunny style ones that are out there. Or run front flares on the F & R. Just thinking out loud I guess...
 
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