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Wiring dash cam with fuse connectors. Totally lost

NoTorque

Active Member
40
11
I purchased a dash cam that was on sale because it was a good price but it also had connectors that allowed it to be connected to the fuse box.

These connectors are fuses ie they plug right into where the fuses would go.

I ran the cable through the a pillar and all but I have zero clue which socket is 12v , acc, and ground. Every guide I look at deals with tapping the fuse box for wiring but I just need to know which fuse is which but all the diagram lists is the amperages.

It has 3 connectors but I cannot figure out which fuses to plug them into.

1) yellow - power 12v (constant I believe)

2) red - ACC

3) black - ground







Can anyone provide some help?
 
Last edited:

fergy016

Well-Known Member
47
29
Vehicle Model
SI
Body Style
Sedan
I hooked my amp up to #6 since it is only powered when the ignition is on.
Be sure to use a similar amp fuse to what was originally in the slot.

The fuse will only give you power either constant or switched, but it will not supply ground.
 

NoTorque

Active Member
40
11
So maybe that one would be the acc (red), but it looks like it's already in use. Can you still use it then?

If the fuse can't be ground then why would they include that?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

fergy016

Well-Known Member
47
29
Vehicle Model
SI
Body Style
Sedan
I would have to research which slots are live (constant) when the ignition is off.
I don't know why they would include the black in that style fuse, it would be better as an inline fuse and hook it to the nut the fuse box is tied down with or a bolt that goes into the car chassis.
 

NoTorque

Active Member
40
11
So with a circuit tester I tested the fuses with the car on and off and used #10 as continuous power (yellow) and #23 as power while car is on.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

webby

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Interior fuse box

1 − −
2 ACG 15 A
3 SRS 10 A
4 Fuel Pump 15 A
5 Meter 7.5 A
6 Power Window 7.5 A
7 VB SOL* (15 A)
8 Door Lock Motor 2 (Unlock) 15 A
9 Door Lock Motor 1 (Unlock) 15 A
10 − −
11 Moonroof* (20 A)
12
Accessory Power Socket
(Center Console)* (15 A)
13 − −
14 Seat Heaters* (15 A)
15
Driver’s Door Lock Motor
(Unlock)* (10 A)
16 − −
17 − −
18 − −
19 ACC 7.5 A
20 ACC Key Lock 7.5 A
21 Daytime Running Lights 7.5 A
22 HAC 7.5 A
23 − −
24 ABS/VSA 7.5 A
25 − −
26 − −
27
Accessory Power Socket
(Front)
15 A
28 Washer 15 A
29 ODS 7.5 A
30
Driver’s Door Lock Motor
(Lock)* (10 A)
31 − −
32 Door Lock Motor 2 (Lock) 15 A
33 Door Lock Motor 1 (Lock) 15 A
34 Small Lights 7.5 A
35 Illumination 7.5 A
36 − −
37 − −
38 Left Headlight High Beam 10 A
39 Right Headlight High Beam 10 A
40 TPMS* (7.5 A)
41 Door Lock 20 A
42 Driver’s Power Window 20 A
43
Rear Passenger’s Side
Power Window
(20 A)
44
Front Passenger’s Side
Power Window
20 A
45
Rear Driver’s Side Power
Window
(20 A)

46 Wiper 30 A

Engine compartment fuses


■ Circuit protected and fuse rating
Circuit Protected Amps
1
EPS 70 A
− −
ABS/VSA Motor 30 A
ABS/VSA FSR 30 A
− −
Main Fuse 100 A
2
IG Main 50 A
Fuse Box Main 60 A
Fuse Box Main 2 60 A
Headlight Main 30 A
− −
Rear Defogger 30 A
− −
Blower 40 A
− −
Sub Fan Motor 20 A
Main Fan Motor 20 A
3 − −
4 Left Headlight Low Beam 10 A
5 Starter DIAG, ST MG 7.5 A
6 Right Headlight Low Beam 10 A
7 − −
8 − −
9 − −
10 − −
11 Oil Level 7.5 A
12 Fog Lights* (20 A)
13 Driver’s Power Seat Sliding* (20 A)
14 Hazard 10 A
15 FI Sub 15 A
16 IG Coil 15 A
17 Stop 15 A
18 Horn 10 A
19 Premium Amp* (20 A)
20 INJ (15 A)
21 IGP 15 A
22 DBW 15 A
23 H/L LO 20 A
24
Driver’s Power Seat
Reclining* (20 A)
25 MG Clutch 7.5 A
26 − −
27 SMALL 20 A
28 Interior Lights 7.5 A
29 Backup 10 A


lots of fuse info & what's powered etc in this thread as well
http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/fuse-tapping-not-working-as-intended.7472/

as someone else mentioned:

if you have an Si, you may have noticed that you can turn the car off, yet the moonroof, power windows and accessory ambient light kit to name a few, stay alive with the key out until the driver's door is open and closed.
 

NoTorque

Active Member
40
11
OK the setup I tried with 10 and 23 didn't work. Back to the drawing board.


Yeah I saw that post that's why I tried fuse 23 since it's open already.


But no dice. I'm wondering if something is wrong
 
Last edited:

webby

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Are you running the black to a ground location in the car - bolt/nut etc?
 

NoTorque

Active Member
40
11
Are you running the black to a ground location in the car - bolt/nut etc?
Well I honestly didn't think it would require a ground (during testing) for the camera to turn on, but currently it's connected to the clutch pedal because it clipped on there perfectly. But I'm not sure where to ground it. I'm going to ground it by stripping that fuse connector off and putting on a hook or loop on it.
Are you running the black to a ground location in the car - bolt/nut etc?
 

NoTorque

Active Member
40
11
Maybe I need a multimeter to check each fuse port?

Also can I use a fuse that's already in use by something else?

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

webby

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Yes, most people call them fuse taps. Auto parts stores will have them. Maybe @Pauly99to17 can show you his fuse panel or help. I know he's got a lot hooked up to his.

image.jpeg
 

Pauly99to17

Well-Known Member
9,176
6,576
Ville de Quebec
Vehicle Model
2012 LX
Body Style
Dyno Blue Pearl Sedan (FB2)


Yes, you can use a slot already in use. Take out the fuse that is there and put in bottom opening of fuse tap. Then put your new fuse in the top slot.
 

Pauly99to17

Well-Known Member
9,176
6,576
Ville de Quebec
Vehicle Model
2012 LX
Body Style
Dyno Blue Pearl Sedan (FB2)
If I understand correctly the dash cam came with a yellow and red tap. I would think you only need to use one to get power. The DC one. The easiest ground is a bolt on the side wall behind the fuse box. I'm pretty sure this is why your camera is not working...it's not grounded correctly.

Ground bolt is back here. Get a flashlight and look behind the fuse box. There are a few other factory wires already grounded here. You will need to cut off the tap thing on the black wire and add an o ring connector.


image.jpg

image.jpg
 
Last edited:

NoTorque

Active Member
40
11
If I understand correctly the dash cam came with a yellow and red tap. I would think you only need to use one to get power. The DC one. The easiest ground is a bolt on the side wall behind the fuse box. I'm pretty sure this is why your camera is not working...it's not grounded correctly.

Ground bolt is back here. Get a flashlight and look behind the fuse box. There are a few other factory wires already grounded here. You will need to cut off the tap thing on the black wire and add an o ring connector.


View attachment 52313

View attachment 52314
You were right it wasn't grounded properly and that's why it wouldn't turn on.

The fuse set up I used (23 for ignition and 10 for shut down power) does work, phew. It switches over to fuse 10 when you turn the car off which tells it to shut down, pretty cool.

That ground bolt back there is insanely hard to get to . I feel like a scrub but I used the door bolt.
 

RickcivicSi

New Member
5
0
Interior fuse box

1 − −
2 ACG 15 A
3 SRS 10 A
4 Fuel Pump 15 A
5 Meter 7.5 A
6 Power Window 7.5 A
7 VB SOL* (15 A)
8 Door Lock Motor 2 (Unlock) 15 A
9 Door Lock Motor 1 (Unlock) 15 A
10 − −
11 Moonroof* (20 A)
12
Accessory Power Socket
(Center Console)* (15 A)
13 − −
14 Seat Heaters* (15 A)
15
Driver’s Door Lock Motor
(Unlock)* (10 A)
16 − −
17 − −
18 − −
19 ACC 7.5 A
20 ACC Key Lock 7.5 A
21 Daytime Running Lights 7.5 A
22 HAC 7.5 A
23 − −
24 ABS/VSA 7.5 A
25 − −
26 − −
27
Accessory Power Socket
(Front)
15 A
28 Washer 15 A
29 ODS 7.5 A
30
Driver’s Door Lock Motor
(Lock)* (10 A)
31 − −
32 Door Lock Motor 2 (Lock) 15 A
33 Door Lock Motor 1 (Lock) 15 A
34 Small Lights 7.5 A
35 Illumination 7.5 A
36 − −
37 − −
38 Left Headlight High Beam 10 A
39 Right Headlight High Beam 10 A
40 TPMS* (7.5 A)
41 Door Lock 20 A
42 Driver’s Power Window 20 A
43
Rear Passenger’s Side
Power Window
(20 A)
44
Front Passenger’s Side
Power Window
20 A
45
Rear Driver’s Side Power
Window
(20 A)

46 Wiper 30 A

Engine compartment fuses

■ Circuit protected and fuse rating
Circuit Protected Amps
1
EPS 70 A
− −
ABS/VSA Motor 30 A
ABS/VSA FSR 30 A
− −
Main Fuse 100 A
2
IG Main 50 A
Fuse Box Main 60 A
Fuse Box Main 2 60 A
Headlight Main 30 A
− −
Rear Defogger 30 A
− −
Blower 40 A
− −
Sub Fan Motor 20 A
Main Fan Motor 20 A
3 − −
4 Left Headlight Low Beam 10 A
5 Starter DIAG, ST MG 7.5 A
6 Right Headlight Low Beam 10 A
7 − −
8 − −
9 − −
10 − −
11 Oil Level 7.5 A
12 Fog Lights* (20 A)
13 Driver’s Power Seat Sliding* (20 A)
14 Hazard 10 A
15 FI Sub 15 A
16 IG Coil 15 A
17 Stop 15 A
18 Horn 10 A
19 Premium Amp* (20 A)
20 INJ (15 A)
21 IGP 15 A
22 DBW 15 A
23 H/L LO 20 A
24
Driver’s Power Seat
Reclining* (20 A)
25 MG Clutch 7.5 A
26 − −
27 SMALL 20 A
28 Interior Lights 7.5 A
29 Backup 10 A


lots of fuse info & what's powered etc in this thread as well
http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/fuse-tapping-not-working-as-intended.7472/

as someone else mentioned:

if you have an Si, you may have noticed that you can turn the car off, yet the moonroof, power windows and accessory ambient light kit to name a few, stay alive with the key out until the driver's door is open and closed.
Which slot is constant power though? And the slot has to have an original fuse, so that I can plug into the fuse adapter(fuse tap). I’m using my circuit meter tomorrow when I get it from work, I just figured I seek for help before.
 

RickcivicSi

New Member
5
0
So with a circuit tester I tested the fuses with the car on and off and used #10 as continuous power (yellow) and #23 as power while car is on.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
But #10 is empty. My fuse adapter(fuse tap) requires an original fuse to plug in. Or I’m fine without it? I want constant power.
 

RickcivicSi

New Member
5
0
I hooked my amp up to #6 since it is only powered when the ignition is on.
Be sure to use a similar amp fuse to what was originally in the slot.

The fuse will only give you power either constant or switched, but it will not supply ground.
I’m looking for a slot with a fuse already in place with constant voltage. I want my dash cam to stay on, for security purposes. It won’t drain my battery, it has automatic shut off when the battery reaches a low voltage point.
 

webby

Administrator
Admin
Toys For Tots
52,735
22,640
But #10 is empty. My fuse adapter(fuse tap) requires an original fuse to plug in. Or I’m fine without it? I want constant power.
so place a fuse in the original spot, if that user said #10 is constant. I have not tested for constant power. Place a fuse in it that spot that matches with what your device needs.
 

RickcivicSi

New Member
5
0
Hmm, got you, makes sense. Thanks man, the dash cam hard wire kit comes with one red wire (fuse adapter) and black wire(obviously for grounding).
 
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