Aftermarket speakers

[mr bigolsworth]

So looking to replace the factory speakers. I've used alpine type r's and 's in the past and loved them. Just wondering what ppl suggest with using the factory amp and how much power does it actually put out to the factory speakers.

 

[squiggy]

So looking to replace the factory speakers. I've used alpine type r's and 's in the past and loved them. Just wondering what ppl suggest with using the factory amp and how much power does it actually put out to the factory speakers.

Outputs about 30 watts rms to front and rears and and about 60 to the sub. Just a warning: replacing the rear speakers is a royal pain in the ***.

 

[mr bigolsworth]

Did you notice a big difference when you replaced the factory speakers?

 

[squiggy]

Did you notice a big difference when you replaced the factory speakers?

Just got them in Monday. Still playing around with settings as I replaced the head unit at the same time.

I put these in:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-f7AdUGBmhgO/p_107DB651S/Polk-Audio-db651s.html

 

[Pauly99to17]

Outputs about 30 watts rms to front and rears and and about 60 to the sub. Just a warning: replacing the rear speakers is a royal pain in the ***.

Oh ya, even with yours being shallow mount they were still difficult?

 

[squiggy]

Oh ya, even with yours being shallow mount they were still difficult?

They won't mount directly to the rear deck itself. Mounting adapters are needed and the only ones I could find were from Scosche (they are for the 8th but say 2006 and up). I had to "modify" them in order to get them to work. The bolt that holds the mount to the rear deck needs to be counter-sunk due to the speaker covering the hole.













On top of that, the screws that came with the speakers were too long and...they were screws. THERE IS NO ROOM FOR A SCREWDRIVER. I had to go out and buy bolts, but had to grind the head down down due to the proximity of the surround on the speaker. Still too close for comfort, though.

 

[Pauly99to17]

Ya, weird they only had screws to install with.....

 

[CivicCanuck]

They won't mount directly to the rear deck itself. Mounting adapters are needed and the only ones I could find were from Scosche (they are for the 8th but say 2006 and up). I had to "modify" them in order to get them to work. The bolt that holds the mount to the rear deck needs to be counter-sunk due to the speaker covering the hole.


On top of that, the screws that came with the speakers were too long and...they were screws. THERE IS NO ROOM FOR A SCREWDRIVER. I had to go out and buy bolts, but had to grind the head down down due to the proximity of the surround on the speaker. Still too close for comfort, though.



View attachment 15106

I am sure you could use a 90 degree screwdriver, but even those aren't great, although I have a small one that locks a bit into a ratcheting wrench. The whole set was like ~ $10 on sale, even if you use them once, they pay for themselves.

 

[squiggy]

I am sure you could use a 90 degree screwdriver, but even those aren't great, although I have a small one that locks a bit into a ratcheting wrench. The whole set was like ~ $10 on sale, even if you use them once, they pay for themselves.

Not likely. Clearance is only about 1-1.5".

 

[CivicCanuck]

I just snapped a picture of it, if you need even less clearance you could grind the bit on a bench grinder, it will go a bit deeper in the ratchet handle then. You could also use shorter screws.

 

[squiggy]

You are forgetting the length of the screw/bolt...

 

[CivicCanuck]

Do the screws go all the way through the adapter?

If not, then cut them shorter.... that way they would only need to go through the frame enough to hold it down. I had my rear deck off, but don't recall how ugly it was to get to the speakers, since I just ran wires to the rear trunk light. If it were me, I would probably omit the rear screws and put a small strip of butyl to hold the rear of the basket, and put in the screws that were easy to get to. It's not like it's going to vibrate or rattle.

 

[squiggy]

Do the screws go all the way through the adapter?

If not, then cut them shorter.... that way they would only need to go through the frame enough to hold it down. I had my rear deck off, but don't recall how ugly it was to get to the speakers, since I just ran wires to the rear trunk light. If it were me, I would probably omit the rear screws and put a small strip of butyl to hold the rear of the basket, and put in the screws that were easy to get to. It's not like it's going to vibrate or rattle.

They are 3/4 inch. 1/2 inch wasn't quite enough.

Butyl?

 

[CivicCanuck]

Butyl rubber, the adhesive strips used to be used for vehicle windshields before urethane adhesives were commonplace. It comes in many thicknesses and profiles. When I was at a Ford dealership, this was used for the backlight glass and rear window on the pickups, they had a plastic frame with studs molded in the frame. Run a strip of butyl ( the product was actually called M-seal ) in the groove in the frame, overlap by 1/4 inch, then slide the studs through the holes. Install a bunch of nuts on the inside of the vehicle, and you are done.

Sold also as a speaker gasketing from Parts Express.

 

[squiggy]

There is no way to get nuts under the mount. The mount has to be bolted down first. And is inaccessible from underneath. It would have been so much easier to screw the speaker onto the mount and then bolt it down.