2 10's or 1 12 in. Jl audio sub?

capt.dru

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I have just put in my system and it sounds great! I just need a little more bass. My setup includes Focal components in the front, Focal coaxials in the rear powered by an Alpine V70 amp,(I think thats the model number) and a sealed 10in jl audio w1 that i borrowed from my f-250. It sounds cyrstal clear and bass is nice and tight, the problem is i need a little more bass. Should i go with 2 10's or 1 12in? What do you have in your vehicle and how does it sound? I am sticking with sealed boxes for sound quality. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
 
I prefer the 12s in cars. In trucks, because it's one large air space, a 10 is great, and that's what i ran in my tacoma. but when you factor a trunk in, the prefer the punch of the 12. In my experience with my 8th civic, the lower frequencies (below 80hz) came through a lot better with the extra air that the larger sub can move.
 
Also, two 10s like you're considering might be good, but they'll take up more room than a single 12. That's something else to think about
 
Thanks for the reply! I was leaning towards the 1 12in because of the limited trunk space. Still debating though. Just worried that 1 12 might not be enough and 2 10's might be too much for what I want.
 
Thanks for the reply! I was leaning towards the 1 12in because of the limited trunk space. Still debating though. Just worried that 1 12 might not be enough and 2 10's might be too much for what I want.
Which sub are you looking at? I had a 12w6 v2 and with a 1000watt rms class D amp, and it was overkill (like the car started rattling everywhere overkill). Sounded great, but it definitely could generate enough pressure to be uncomfortable. One 12 should be more than enough depending on the sub and amp and how loud you want it.
 
I am looking at the power wedge with the w3 in 2 ohm powered by a 5 channel alpine mrx-v70. I think the power for the sub channel is 250w at 4ohms and 350w at 2ohms. I don't really like to have the volume way up. I prefer sound quality over spl.
 
I am looking at the power wedge with the w3 in 2 ohm powered by a 5 channel alpine mrx-v70. I think the power for the sub channel is 250w at 4ohms and 350w at 2ohms. I don't really like to have the volume way up. I prefer sound quality over spl.
For SQL I think the w6 is best. I had the older w3 v2 in my Tacoma and while they were good, the w6s were clean and loud.

I don't even have subs in my current car. I think I'm getting old cuz the volume stays low nowadays in my car.
 
Type r 12 last years model spec box it fills the whole back just enough room for my impacts I my setup is way over kill I had to dynamat my whole back because of rattles but man does this thing vibe lol you know how's use locals gotta have bass lol I would go with 2 10s my friends Ek coupe slams w3s I think this years edition

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1357714534.433627.jpg
 
For SQL I think the w6 is best. I had the older w3 v2 in my Tacoma and while they were good, the w6s were clean and loud.

I don't even have subs in my current car. I think I'm getting old cuz the volume stays low nowadays in my car.

The 12" JL is decent, but I would suggest a pair of 10's. I was looking at a shallow mount 10" for my truck, and happened to be talking to a friend of mine that is a transducer ( speaker ) engineer for Alpine. The SWE-10S4 Type E sub is one he designed, it has a nice flat suspension curve, the motor has a 2.5" coil that can handle some decent power.

The best part is a pair of them wired in parallel will give you a 2 ohm load, and they will install in a sealed box slightly over 1 cubic feet. Linear excursion is listed as 10 mm one way, with a pair of them they should keep up to a single 12" driver with 22mm excursion one way ( displacement of the cone diameter x excursion ). They are fairly shallow depth at 4 3/4".

$ 65 each @ Crutchfield

If you can handle a bit more mounting depth (6"), go for the SWS 10D4, it has 1.5 times more throw (15 mm xmax ). If you shop around, you might find it for less than it lists at Crutchfield. ( Street pricing should be in the $ 90 range ) You would end up with a single 4 ohm load though for the amp with a pair, wire the coils in series on each driver, then connect in parallel. This driver is also designed by my buddy.

With a pair of drivers vs a single driver, you have twice the coil area to dissipate heat, and twice the magnet volume to act as a heatsink, pulling heat away from the coil. The Type E has a tighter gap ( coil to pole piece clearance ) than the Type S. Also, with less coil volume in the gap vs a single longer stroke driver, inductance is less of a problem.

Dual 10" Type S ( SWS 10D4 ) will be within a gnat's hair of a single 12" driver with 22 mm excursion. ( Output ability )
 
A properly designed sealed box will take into account the transfer function of the vehicle, with the in box f3 matching the point where the cabin gain starts.

Here's a picture of a 12" Acoustic Elegance AV12X driver, I installed it in a 1.3 cubic foot sealed box ( built out of sonotube ) and measured it outside, groundplane at 1m, and then again inside the car, with the measurement microphone clamped in the driver's headrest. Amplifier was a Soundstream Rubicon 1002 in bridged mode. ( 1kw )

Red is in-car, blue is groundplane response. av12x in 1.3 cu ft sealed.jpgIMG_0023R.jpgIMG_0027R.jpg
 
Forgot to mention the upper response of the sub was with the backseat up, it doesn't measure like that with the backseat down. The bass was filtering through the backseat and deck. ( no eq was used on the curves, that was as is )

Measuring rig was HP win vista laptop > Behringer Xenyx 802 mixer > Behringer UCA 202 USB soundcard > Behringer ECM8000 measurement mic. Software is RoomEq wizard.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys! I really appreciate it. I will keep you posted on what I decide.
 
\0103131430a.jpg 0103131427.jpg 12" cvt kicker in slim box. Still have trunk and pleanty of bass. I upgraded amp to MTX 300dx w/ remote bass control perfect bass for me and this car.
 
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