Civic oil change

scott

scott

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Location
New York
Vehicle Model
EX
Body Style
coupe
Has anyone used synthetic oil in their civic? I used to use it in my RSX and loved that fact that my change intervals where about every 8K.
 
Synthetic is the way to go in general.

On the Si I believe the 0W-20 only comes in a synthetic blend.


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The 0w20 is a synthetic blend made specifically for Honda. In the aftermarket world, you can get a full synthetic 0w20. As far as I know, the only place to get the blend would be through Honda.
 
^^ I've not seen any blend in stores. Only full synthetic 0w20. Nothing wrong with running full synthetic
 
Is there really an advantage to running full synthetic? I only got 3300 miles on my SI but when my 1st oil change comes up, I wonder if I could have the dealer change it from the blend to synth. I imagine that the blend would be okay because that's what they intended the engine to use.
 
Blend will be fine, but you'll need to get it from Honda. Some believe full synth to be the best of the best. Some run much longer drain intervals on full synth compared to conventional oil. Follow the oil meter in the car on Honda oil and you'll be fine.
 
Synthetic oil is a lubricant consisting of chemical compounds that are artificially made (synthesized). Synthetic lubricants can be manufactured using chemically modified petroleum components rather than whole crude oil, but can also be synthesized from other raw materials. Synthetic oil is used as a substitute for lubricant refined from petroleum when operating in extremes of temperature, because, in general, it provides superior mechanical and chemical properties than those found in traditional mineral oils. Aircraft jet engines, for example, require the use of synthetic oils, whereas aircraft piston engines do not.


Advantages
The technical advantages of synthetic motor oils include:
Measurably better low- and high-temperature viscosity performance at service temperature extremes
Better chemical & shear stability
Decreased evaporative loss
Resistance to oxidation, thermal breakdown, and oil sludge problems
Extended drain intervals with the environmental benefit of less oil waste.
Improved fuel economy in certain engine configurations.
Better lubrication during extreme cold weather starts
Longer engine life
Superior protection against "ash" and other deposit formation in engine hot spots (in particular in turbochargers and superchargers) for less oil burnoff and reduced chances of damaging oil passageway clogging.
Increased horsepower and torque due to less initial drag on engine

Disadvantages
The disadvantages of synthetic motor oils include:
Potential decomposition problems in certain chemical environments (predominantly in industrial use.)
Potential stress cracking of plastic components made of polyoxymethylene (POM) in the presence of polyalphaolefin (PAO).
In July 1996, Consumer Reports published the results of a two-year motor oil test involving a fleet of 75 New York taxi cabs and found no noticeable advantage of synthetic oil over regular mineral oil. In their article, they noted that "Big-city cabs don't see many cold start-ups or long periods of high-speed driving in extreme heat. But our test results relate to the most common type of severe service - stop-and-go city driving." According to their study, synthetic oil is "worth considering for extreme driving conditions: high ambient temperatures and high engine load, or very cold temperatures."
Synthetic oils are not recommended in automotive rotary engines.
 
webby said:
Long read of the test and results
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=41471
Click to expand...
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From what I remember, Honda specifically warns against "friction modifiers" such as STP, Duralube and Slick 50. Those additives might be "compatible" with other oils.... but they still disturb the chemistry of existing oil in unknown ways. And when it comes to my engine, I don't like "unknown".

For most drivers a simple inexpensive synthetic like Mobile 1 ($4.50/qt during Costco sales) is more than sufficient if changed often enough. In fact, even regular oil is soooo much better than it used to be.... that's why you see the service descriptions like SE, SF, SJ.... going up all the time. That's also why Consumer Reports found no difference in their big taxi cab study. But especially hard drivers -- that would be US! -- or those seeking extended drain intervals should consider upgrading to a superior PAO or ester-based synthetic like Amsoil if it's within their budget. Often the extended drain interval will itself compensate for the additional expense. As a case in point, Amsoil's Signature Series 2000 (now discontinued) used to offer a 35,000 mile/1 year warranty. No that's not a typo. And oil analysis backed it up. That particular oil had a very expensive ester base (not the cheaper PAO) that also gave considerably better gas mileage, averaging 7%. With high RPM engines even more. I ran an Integra mostly at 3000rpm and got +3mpg versus regular oil, about a 10% gain.

By the way, better MPG happens in two ways. First because most synthetic oils reduce friction between moving metal parts, right? That's generally a given. But better gas mileage can also happen because of a reduction in the oil's "internal fluid friction" (Geek Note, see the Reynolds Equation: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reynolds-averaged_Navier–Stokes_equations) which is a significant factor in engines that consistently operate over 3000RPM.... or, ahem... in Vtech mode. Sadly, instead of using high quality, expensive esters Amsoil is beginning to use the cheaper method of adding extreme pressure agents. That way they can maintain dominance in the Four Ball Wear tests (ASTM D-4172) when compared to other oils. Unfortunately, and here's the kicker.... extreme pressure agents cause premature degradation of the oil. Amsoil knows this fact quite well.. in fact, they drilled it into me during their intensive training for industrial dealers years ago. (Yes, now I know just enough to be dangerous!) Still, be careful with these new Amsoil lubricants that have extreme pressure agents. I doubt they represent the same Amsoil that has become so respected over the last 4 decades.

More on this later in an AMSOIL/Synethic Oil thread.
 
I don't agree with all the points in this Edmunds article so don't shoot the messenger. If you're going to use Jiffy Lube and pay $100.00 for a synthetic oil change (like Edmunds did) you'd BETTER extend your drain intervals or you'll go broke in a hurry. On the other hand, if you're a Do It Yourself-er, you can easily afford to change oil more often. AND, I definitely think of SI drivers are "severe" (myself included) so I change my SI 2.4 more often than I change my Accord 2.4.

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/sto...op+changing+your+oil&mktid=ob61762858&msite=w
 
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