Dumb Questions...

Ian Robertson

Well-Known Member
118
76
Austin, TX
1. So this is probably a dumb question but because the 2012 civic LX has the R18 motor, what would keep someone from using any SRI developed for the 8th gen LX, etc.?

2. Removing the catalytic converter is illegal right?

3. What exhaust systems would work on a 2012 LX. webby mentioned the tsudo exhaust for the r18 working on this gen, but is that confirmed?
 
I don't know the rules on emmission testing in Texas, but in PA they visually inspect for the cat in addition to physically plugging into your cars system during a dyno run. I have passed our test with a high flow cat, but doubt I could survive with no cat - unless someone intentionally allowed it to pass.
 
Like Kenny said check local laws for running catless, but it's pretty much useless for the R-18, go for a hi flow cat or stay stock... As for exhaust depends on how loud do you want it, you could do a SI muffler with 2 or 2.25 inch cat back piping with no resonators...
 
I don't know the rules on emmission testing in Texas, but in PA they visually inspect for the cat in addition to physically plugging into your cars system during a dyno run. I have passed our test with a high flow cat, but doubt I could survive with no cat - unless someone intentionally allowed it to pass.
And a high flow cat from 8th gen would work hypothetically? I wonder if anyone has actually tried it...I've seen megan makes one and I guess that would probably fit
 
Well megan makes the downpipe and midpipe without a cat and you would have to buy one and have it added to the exhaust somewhere near the motor.. Most people are getting Random Tech and have no issues....
 
Well megan makes the downpipe and midpipe without a cat and you would have to buy one and have it added to the exhaust somewhere near the motor.. Most people are getting Random Tech and have no issues....
I know I'm totally newb here but....its basically goes:

Engine > Cat > downpipe > midpipe >muffler?
 
Engine dumps straight into the cat.
The cat is basically your header and downpipe.
Which can be replaced by a "test-pipe" since there is really no "header" on this particular engine.
"Midpipe" runs from there back to your muffler.

From what I remember the high flows and full on test-pipe cat removal actually lost power on the r18 except for very high in the rpm range. Unless you are going turbo I don't think it was worth it. I looked into it for my r18 and came to the conclusion that the noise penalty and cost weren't worth it. Guys with a full on cat delete, exhaust, and intake weren't breaking 150hp on the dyno.

I ended up just getting an Si axle back muffler for looks and a little better sound.

Guys with a full on $5000 turbo setup on an r18 were only coming out around 180hp.

420 coupe and couple other guys have pushed way beyond that im sure but have done far more extensive work.
 
What Nix said.

I only have a 2 inch cat back exhaust to a SI muffler, it sounds nice and prob frees up a little hp.
 
Engine dumps straight into the cat.
The cat is basically your header and downpipe.
Which can be replaced by a "test-pipe" since there is really no "header" on this particular engine.
"Midpipe" runs from there back to your muffler.

From what I remember the high flows and full on test-pipe cat removal actually lost power on the r18 except for very high in the rpm range. Unless you are going turbo I don't think it was worth it. I looked into it for my r18 and came to the conclusion that the noise penalty and cost weren't worth it. Guys with a full on cat delete, exhaust, and intake weren't breaking 150hp on the dyno.

I ended up just getting an Si axle back muffler for looks and a little better sound.

Guys with a full on $5000 turbo setup on an r18 were only coming out around 180hp.

420 coupe and couple other guys have pushed way beyond that im sure but have done far more extensive work.

Part of the reason i asked about the cat delete was because this guy has a "megan racing header" (along with a bunch of other bolts ons obviously) which I assume is basically just a "test pipe" and put 163 hp at the dyno. But I guess what you were saying is that they get that power up around 6800 rpm at the cost of low end torque?

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8DpKSNGjTb0
 
Also the reason I'm asking is because with limited funds I'm trying to decide where to spend my money.

Seems like price-performance wise the intake is a no brainer, throttlebody spacer because it's fairly cheap, a catback exhaust is a maybe (doesn't seem like you'd see much HP gains for 300+ dollars), and a "header" or, essentially a downpipe or free flow cat is kind of useless.

Am I totally wrong to say that an axelback wouldn't see any HP gains? Or if any, the numbers would be like 1-2 HP tops?
 
The dyno he used normally give you higher numbers... He prob only making around 140-145 with his mods...
 
With a limited budget.... I would go with intake, TB spacer, and a cat-back exhaust... You can piece together a decent exhaust for under 300, I did my exhaust for around 150-200. If you find a muffler that you like you can go to a exhaust shop and have them do the piping...
 
I had wanted to do the full on power thing as well but after a lot of research it just didn't seem worth it for full bolt ons and tune.

I run my r18 with:
Resonator delete/K&N for an intake.
No exhaust mods, just muffler.
NST pulley kit
P2R throttle body spacer

It feels much better than stock and all those mods cost about what one SRI from Fujita or whoever. (allright the pulleys are a bit)
Said and done I would have probably dyno'd 115 stock and now maybe 130ish. The feel is the main gain though. EDIT: All these mods free up power and my mileage has actually improved over stock. Im between 38-40 consistently.

Handling mods have proven to be much more satisfying for the money.

Get better tires.
Larger rear sway is a must. 22mm progress bar should bolt right up. $165 from Corsport. Best money spent.
Do a full on Koni Yellow setup and a mild drop. Unbelievably fun.


I think it is a lot more fun to drop a Mustang around a tight 2 lane on/off/highway interchange at speed than to drag race from a stoplight.
 
Nix, thanks for the suggestions. All of what you said seems to be the direction of my thinking. I definitely think handling is more important to me than engine mods.
 
Larger rear sway is a must. 22mm progress bar should bolt right up. $165 from Corsport. Best money spent.
Do a full on Koni Yellow setup and a mild drop. Unbelievably fun.



The only corsport I could find was for the 8th gen. There's an eibach 19mm kit out but i guess this

http://www.***************/forum/ho...-diy-dx-lx-ex-ex-l-rear-sway-bar-install.html

tutorial covers what you'd do for the corsport kit?
 
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