Ethlar's significantly faster CM6

Discussion in 'Build Threads' started by ethlar, Jun 5, 2014.

  1. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    Vehicle Model:
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    Body Style:
    Sedan
    My trusty FA1 of many years and 125,000 miles gave up on me last month with a random engine seizure. I was able to get it running again but not before i had replaced it, not trusting that the FA1 would not abandon me again i opted to keep the replacement.

    http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/ethlars-slow-asm-fa1-build.6577/

    The replacement is a new to me 2006 Accord EX-L v6 6 speed manual sedan with navi in sapphire blue pearl. I inherited it from my mother who wanted an excuse to buy herself a new car anyway.

    Pictures and plans to follow
     
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  2. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    the red badge means fun
    [​IMG]



    they had met before: (the weekend i picked up the FA1, my mom also took delivery of the CM6, my old CD5 is hiding in the back too)
    [​IMG]

    Over the years i made sure to take care of the CM6 for my mom, periodically giving her the keys to the FA1 for the weekend and spending time washing waxing and polishing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The CM6 and FA1 met one last time, before i took the FA1 to the dealer to sell it:
    [​IMG]

    the important bits

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2014
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  3. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    Location:
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    Vehicle Model:
    Accord
    Body Style:
    Sedan
    So far ive tinted the windows, 35% all around and have headlights in progress for retro. I moved all of my interior leds from the civic over to the accord.

    I want to take the car to a local detailer for a massive paint correction, it has lots of bumps and scratches i want to minimize, but its not worth 2k to repaint the hood and bumpers.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2014
  4. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

    Messages:
    4,023
    Location:
    DC and SW-VA
    Vehicle Model:
    Accord
    Body Style:
    Sedan
    Current
    Interior:
    All interior bulbs replaced with LEDs
    LED footwell lighting

    Performance:
    P2R Intake Manifold Spacer
    2x P2R Intake Manifold Thermal Gaskets
    Ported Polished and Gasket Matched Intake Runners
    Magnaflow 16685 stainless catback exhaust (Too damn loud)
    XLR8 J pipe and 3rd cat delete
    6-6 Coupe front calipers and rotors
    Stainless steel brake lines

    Suspension:
    Koni Supercup kit with Neuspeed Sport springs
    TL Type S Front and Rear Sway Bars

    Exterior:
    MDX LED Retro
    35% Tint all around
    LED License plate lights
    V-LED Triton v3 amber led modules (front signals)
    V-LED Triton v3 amber led modules (rear signals)
    Morimoto LED Fogs
    TL-s 17x8 "waffle" wheels
    235/45/17 Continental DWS06 tires

    Audio/Visual:
    iSimple ISHD651 USB/iPod/Bluetooth integration
    Rear View Camera

    Future Plans:
    Ingalls Front camber bolts

    Hopes and Dreams: (cause car mods are expensive)
    Supercharger?
    Built 3.7 with a TL-s LSD 6mt?
     
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2016
  5. KennyGS

    KennyGS How may I help?

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    :leghump:
     
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  6. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    magnaflow stayed on the car for about 12 hours, its just too loud so im back to stock, magnaflow is in the basement while i figure out what i want to do with it. Either going to sell it or see about putting a mid muffler in the system to quiet it down
     
  7. webby
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    webby Administrator

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    You having rich do the lights, or are you tackling that project?
     
  8. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    Location:
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    Rich is doing the lights for me, hes hoping to get them shipped back this week actually. @Nix is getting the TLs he did for the civic
     
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  9. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    Location:
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  10. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    I got the TL-s rear sway on yesterday, it was quite the adventure to do. The front sway requires dropping the entire front subframe and i really dont feel safe getting under the car in my gravel driveway when its on anything other than ramps. So im paying a local shop to do the front sway. Wish i didnt have to, its going to be the first mod on a car that i didnt do myself but i guess its worth not ending up with a engine and trans on my chest.

    Since the magnaflow exhaust is just too much sound for me and im having a hard time selling it, im thinking of using its resonator and deleting the mid muffler on the accord to do what the TL crowd calls a stage 2 exhaust, should sound something similar to this



    I also discovered there is a gaping hole in my flex pipe so im contemplating trying to get a aftermarket J pipe to replace it, freeing up a little more power and rumble too
     
  11. Nix
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    Nix Jötunn Moderator

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    It's A Fast Pig!

    Nice progress! I agree with you, and also like having a quiet exhaust. However, all I could think of was this:

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    i guess i am getting old, went from my nimble little civic to a big boat of an accord, exhausts are too loud, i dont want to lower it cause of practicality

    it was the combination of loud and that it was its loudest in normal driving that really was too much for me, if it behaved like a normal exhaust and was loudest at redline id have been fine, but i felt bad driving through my own neighborhood at night at 20-25 mph
     
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  13. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    TL-s front sway got installed today and i absolutely love it. The handling dynamic of the car is completely changed, the car now handles like its a freight train on rails, body roll is almost completely gone, but the car still has a mostly neutral sliding behavior when traction fails
     
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  14. webby
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    webby Administrator

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    [​IMG]
     
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  15. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    and one day i hope to be able to confidently and safely do that in the 911
     
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  16. webby
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    webby Administrator

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    lol you better have a gopro going
     
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  17. Nix
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    Nix Jötunn Moderator

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  18. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    i did slide it onto a 2 lane exit ramp once, took the outside lane which was empty, flat slid to the apex, rode second to 80 and threw it in third. Dad was sitting in the passenger seat laughing his *** off
     
  19. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    Location:
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    Items to check include:

    • Wheel bearings, for excess play or wear
    • Brake pad/shoe depth – a minimum of 50% remaining
    • Brake fluid – we highly recommend a flush and replacement with high temperature synthetic fluid
    • Tires – pressures should be increased 2-3 lbs. from standard pressures (see your expert for more precise guidance on this – and you really should buy a high quality air gauge with dial readout) – tread should have 50% remaining
    • Wheels – snap on parts should be removed and lug nuts should be tightened to recommended torque (usually in the 85 lb range, but check manufacturer recommendation)
    • Belts and safety equipment – is all the factory equipment in good shape?
    • Fuel – its best to arrive with a full, but not topped off tank – You’ll use fuel quickly on the track and your car is probably engineered to handle properly with a reasonably full load – fuel is available at the track, but it’s a bit pricey
    • Coolant/fluids (OK air-cooled guys, you’re off the hook on coolant) check all appropriate fluids – oil should be topped off (except dry sump Porsche engines, which should be at the low end of gauge/indicator)

    :lildevil:
     
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  20. ethlar
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    ethlar Grumpy Moderator

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    Location:
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    its interesting that they want dry sump 911s to have their oil level at the low end of the gauge, i always get concerned after getting on the car a little bit how the gauge pegs out at the bottom, id figure youd want enough oil in the tank to keep a reading during sustained high rpm operation.

    i guess i need to do more 911 reading
     

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