Need Help Fast - It's Gonna Rain

RedShiftChris said:
If they are shorter and denser, then they will be more harsh. Still doesn't make sense. Swapping them is not easy, so it makes me think they consider it important.... but I cannot figure out why.

If it were my car, I'd leave the stock ones on until I figured out why.

Chris
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I'm going to call them today, and (hopefully) find out. Their product manager, who I've asked to speak with in the past, has been out for months and is going to be out indefinitely for unfortunate reasons, and I think the underlings are sort of panicked. You would think that someone there would still know why though.

Question:

Are there changes that would need to be made to run the Koni shocks on the rear with these pro kit springs? That may be a good way to go, then do the fronts with Koni's a little further down the road.
 
I spoke to tech support at Eibach. The length of the Eibach bump stop is shorter to allow for more shock travel, which they considered important for this application. In addition, the durometer or density of the stop is greater than the oem stop. I was told that the stops I received are correct but carry German numbering, which differs from, but correlates to the US numbering system on the instructions, and is absolutely correct for this application -- that, despite the fact that the stops are quite loose on the shock shaft, unlike the oems, which will slide with a little pressure.

I'm told that this was the best bump stop they had available for our application and that the looseness (the stop just falls to the bottom of the shaft when installed) is a non-issue because the stop can't get sideways in the boot. They also view trimming the oem stops as a last resort, because it opens up the cell structure of the material and advances decay of the bump stop material.
 
colint said:
I spoke to tech support at Eibach. The length of the Eibach bump stop is shorter to allow for more shock travel, which they considered important for this application. In addition, the durometer or density of the stop is greater than the oem stop. I was told that the stops I received are correct but carry German numbering, which differs from, but correlates to the US numbering system on the instructions, and is absolutely correct for this application -- that, despite the fact that the stops are quite loose on the shock shaft, unlike the oems, which will slide with a little pressure.

I'm told that this was the best bump stop they had available for our application and that the looseness (the stop just falls to the bottom of the shaft when installed) is a non-issue because the stop can't get sideways in the boot. They also view trimming the oem stops as a last resort, because it opens up the cell structure of the material and advances decay of the bump stop material.
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I guess that verifies what I said in my earlier post. Since it's shorter, it needs to be harder to stop the suspension from completely bottoming out.

It's fine if the bump stop is loose because whether it sits on top of the shaft or on the bottom, it's hitting on both sides once all the suspension travel is used up.
 
Seems like since the 8th gen springs would run out of travel (due to coil bind) before the shock, they didn't need require new bump stops.
 
Btw, I have the 8th gen sportlines which I took off my 07 sedan, and they go really well with the koni sports I got from Chris. The 9th gen versions you got should ride even better since they allow for more travel. Pair those up with a good shock and it'll feel much better than stock.
 
hey_mikey said:
Btw, I have the 8th gen sportlines which I took off my 07 sedan, and they go really well with the koni sports I got from Chris. The 9th gen versions you got should ride even better since they allow for more travel. Pair those up with a good shock and it'll feel much better than stock.
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Which suspension part do you mean allows for more travel than the 8th? Sorry, confused.
 
colint said:
Which suspension part do you mean allows for more travel than the 8th? Sorry, confused.
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The new springs don't have as many coils. Because of the design of the 8th gen springs, the number of coil windings limited the amount of travel. The 9th doesn't look like it'll have that issue. The inclusion of new bump stops also supports that theory.
 
Basically, when totally compressed, the old spring just much longer than the new one. That extra length is the limiting factor. Because the new one can collapse into a smaller space, the limiting factor for travel is the shock.
 
hey_mikey said:
Basically, when totally compressed, the old spring just much longer than the new one. That extra length is the limiting factor. Because the new one can collapse into a smaller space, the limiting factor for travel is the shock.
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I see. So the fact that mine are pro kit, not sport line is immaterial, it's the eibach vs. oem configuration of the spring. I am thinking about putting koni adjustables on the rear right now and forgetting the oem rebuild. I assume I would use the smaller eibach bump stop in the koni application for the same reason, right?

I looked at RedShiftChris' site, where he shows that the only mod to the koni rears is enlarging the shock tower hole. maybe that and the eibach bump stops.
 
colint said:
I see. So the fact that mine are pro kit, not sport line is immaterial, it's the eibach vs. oem configuration of the spring. I am thinking about putting koni adjustables on the rear right now and forgetting the oem rebuild. I assume I would use the smaller eibach bump stop in the koni application for the same reason, right?

I looked at RedShiftChris' site, where he shows that the only mod to the koni rears is enlarging the shock tower hole. maybe that and the eibach bump stops.
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Both the new sportline and pro kit springs were redesigned, and i think (from the looks of them) that both allow more suspension travel than their previous respective versions.

Why would you only put Konis on the rear? If you're not gonna put the Konis on all four corners, I would recommend reusing your stock rear shocks.
 
To use the koni rears, you don't need to enlarge the shock tower hole. The only hole that I needed to enlarge was those of the stock dust covers. They are fit onto a washer that is just large enough for the stock shock's thread size, and the hole in that washer needs to be enlarged to clear the koni's larger thread diameter. In the alternative, you can pound the original washer out of the dust cover and slip the cover over the washers supplied with the koni shocks. The new washers are large enough to hold them up.
 
hey_mikey said:
Both the new sportline and pro kit springs were redesigned, and i think (from the looks of them) that both allow more suspension travel than their previous respective versions.

Why would you only put Konis on the rear? If you're not gonna put the Konis on all four corners, I would recommend reusing your stock rear shocks.
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$. I would do the fronts when I can, but not right now.
 
I think what he was trying to say is... if you're going to do just the fronts or rears,... do the fronts. Leave the rears alone till a later date ($, whatever).
 
colint said:
$. I would do the fronts when I can, but not right now.
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I figured that, rather than tear apart oem rear shocks to put shorter bump stops in, I could kill 2 birds with one stone. Get rear koni's, which need the same treatment, and do them instead. The fronts will be expensive, as I cannot do them myself (spring compressing), so that could wait for a few months. That was my thinking anyway.
 
I would still leave the stock bump stops on. I feel a little weird going against the Eibach engineers, but this seems stupid to make everyone do it when the stock bump stops are so progressive (do so little for the first 1/3 of it's compression).
Chris
 
RedShiftChris said:
I would still leave the stock bump stops on. I feel a little weird going against the Eibach engineers, but this seems stupid to make everyone do it when the stock bump stops are so progressive (do so little for the first 1/3 of it's compression).
Chris
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I decided to take your advice and leave the bump stops alone. Not going to bother with the eibach supplied stops. Big hassle, and the ride is fine now.
 
SOrry to bring this back again. I have posted this in another thread.

I installed H&R springs; and as directed by H&R I did not cut my bump stops. I feel like the car is sitting on the bumps and it feels bouncy/wobbly/ and unstable (especially on freeways.) Should I cut them anyway? Would it alleviate the ride problem? I understand that I would compromise the cell foam; so perhaps i should buy after market bump stops instead. If so, can anyone give me the correct diameters/sizing.

Here are some things i found, but would appreciate if anyone knows of some other ones. Also, are poly bumpstops a good idea?

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Daystar-Urethane-Bump-Stop-p-165.html

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Eibach-Micro-Cellular-Foam-Shaft-Bump-Stop-p-1354.html

thanks
 
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