Problems with progress rear 24mm sway bar

Turkeyfeast123

Well-Known Member
13
9
Hey guys,

I am reaching out here because I am pretty frustrated and don't really know how to resolve this issue. Recently, I bought the progress rear anti-sway bar, I have a 2012 civic coupe si, and I installed it this past weekend, and it was a complete nightmare.

I installed the whole thing the first time and instantly noticed that the driver's side, where the bushings attached to the OE bushings was really close to the sub-frame joint location for the LCA mount, and when I test drove it the noise sounded horrendous, like metal on metal. So, jacked it back up, noticed that the driver's side OE bushing mount was either set back too far or bent or whatever the case may have been, so I installed the non-si brackets that is included in the kit (if you don't know what I'm talking about just check it out on the directions page here) http://www.progressauto.com/ecom/download/62.1025_Rev_C.pdf - then I needed to bore out the bottoms and tops of the non-si plate in order to fit the 14mm stock bolts, which seemed to be successful as the distance increased slightly giving the bar more clearance from the sub-frame LCA joint mount.

I reinstalled everything again, then come to notice the sway bar end links gotta be installed while the car tires are stock height and not full droop like it will be using jack stands (I admit the first time I messed this up, but I fixed it the second time). I installed the end links, which no matter how it goes in, they are a pain for sure, and I end up using the middle setting instead because it was just easier to connect the end links, I was previously using the softest setting just to try it out the first time.

Once I installed it the second time I didn't hear that much noise, compared to the first install effort. But I notice it makes very loud noises at low speeds, like 25 and under, especially over bumps, small pot holes etc. It doesn't sound like it's scraping the metal anymore but more of an echo metal sound.

I can only attempt to reinstall the entire bar again tomorrow, I just don't have time today. And I'm thinking of installing the end links first in an attempt to make that part easier, not sure if it'll work but whatever. At this point I'm upset and angry that the noise continues to persist. When I am driving highway speed or on an on-ramp, the bar works great, flatted my ride out and the body role is almost gone completely, however, I can't be using something that only functions half the time.

If anyone has any suggestions out there or similar problems please let me know! Thanks for listening.
 
I sure did! greased those suckers up well. I still have some grease left over from what I was given, so I can still use some but I was pretty liberal with it.
 
I know on the 22mm bar it is possible to install it upside down. It seems like you would not be able to but it has happened. Might be worth looking to see if its in correctly. It will bolt up in the wrong direction and just make a ton of noise.

Definitely do the install on ramps and not jackstands. It makes it a ton easier.


The frame brackets on the Si and non-Si where you attach the bushing do not need the extender hardware. If you had to use them, something is wrong. They were needed on the 06-11 Non-Si cars. With the 2012+ cars the brackets were extended and the hardware is not necessary.

If you need new brackets, they are fairly inexpensive through collegehillshonda. I would get new mounting bolts for them as well.

Grease and torque to spec. Drive, then re-torque all the bolts. We have the 22mm bars on both of our cars. They only make noise when something is loose or not tq properly. The clearances are very very tight back there.
 
I know on the 22mm bar it is possible to install it upside down. It seems like you would not be able to but it has happened. Might be worth looking to see if its in correctly. It will bolt up in the wrong direction and just make a ton of noise.

Definitely do the install on ramps and not jackstands. It makes it a ton easier.


The frame brackets on the Si and non-Si where you attach the bushing do not need the extender hardware. If you had to use them, something is wrong. They were needed on the 06-11 Non-Si cars. With the 2012+ cars the brackets were extended and the hardware is not necessary.

If you need new brackets, they are fairly inexpensive through collegehillshonda. I would get new mounting bolts for them as well.

Grease and torque to spec. Drive, then re-torque all the bolts. We have the 22mm bars on both of our cars. They only make noise when something is loose or not tq properly. The clearances are very very tight back there.

Thank you for the feedback. I ended up tweeking it a little last night. I took a brick and leaned my cell phone against it, so I could get a video of the car as I was pushing it side to side, I ended up seeing that on the one side my end links were loose, and the other side was not, but I tightened both of them and a lot of the noise disappeared. However, there is a much deeper noise that is still happening and I believe you are right about getting new brackets, I'm gonna order them today or at least attempt to find them, and in the mean time tonight I'm gonna get under the car and take off the bushings, grease them up again, then retighten everything once more. I am determined to get this thing working because I like the results so far, turning is so much easier.

On a side note, I've read a few comments you posted a while back about rear sway bars versus front ones, and you advocating for rear ones and I can see why you said that. I was really going to get the eibach ones but when I saw just how little the diameter increased in the back and how steep the increase was in the front I began to wonder why that was. After doing some reading online, which also supported your vote for the rear bars, I decided to forget about the eibach ones and just upgraded the rear bar. I like the results as is (despite things being loose or messed up, which is impressive if it still works under those conditions) so I am giving it my all here to make this thing work and fix whatever I need to fix!
 
Cool man, good luck with getting the clunk sorted out.

Yea, it's an impressive difference that one bar can make. If you upgrade the front bar the car will flatten out more but you will get worse understeer. Right now with the larger rear bar the *** end will want to rotate around more. You're basically fighting the bad understeer setup from the factory. Be careful at highway speeds until you get used to it. The car can get a little twitchy feeling. I find the magic number for instability to be right around 80mph which is way too fast for normal driving anyways. Heh.

Here's the new frame brackets: Part number 12 and 13. Get 4 new mounting bolts too. Looks like total should be right around $15.

http://www.collegehillshondaparts.c...manual-engine/chassis-cat/rear-lower-arm-scat
 
Good news! I fixed it tonight, Im very happy. When I got under there I instantly noticed the end links being loose and the U-shaped mounting brackets were loose too. I know previously you mentioned to not use the spacers but for whatever reason my driver side was too close and the spacer in my opinion gave it more clearance. Here are the before and after pics of what Im talking about. Youll notice too on both pics the paint had been scraped off and turned white in the pics. It is very tight back there!

tmp_12486-20160920_180309-663044300.jpg tmp_12486-20160920_1818121367840536.jpg
 
Nice! Glad you got it sorted out. If the extra hardware is working, run it!
 
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