Mother Of All Whore Threads Non-VIP Edition v.1

MERICA!
lol
had a ram 1500 last year come in for bullet damage to the rad. guy rested his rifle on the hood while hunting and it went through the hood into the rad somehow.
 
Now I'm looking at a nitrous kit for my si. Seems like I could do a dry kit because flashpro can enrich for nitrous. At least I think it can. Need to do more research. Not much info out there for adding nitrous to a 9th gen that I can find.
 
webby said:
Ron installed nitrous on his, and he even said he had enough for a diy, but he hasn’t been on in quite a while.


View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Bq4AOcPtcDo
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I'm on the fence. Watched a bunch of dyno videos on RBC swaps and drop in cams. 4 piston dic seems to make great power throughout the power range.
Both options seem to make the same peak power. I'm still not sure I want to sacrifice low end power for peak. But drop in cams range from $1400 to $2500.

Dry nitrous kit plus purge and bottle pressure gauge seems to be about $1200. Plus $150 to fill the bottle.
 
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I know it can vary by location and whatever, but I know he posted he paid $7.90 a pound in California.
 
webby said:
I know it can vary by location and whatever, but I know he posted he paid $7.90 a pound in California.
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That's cheap. I actually asked a part place locally that has to ship it to the main land and get it filled. I was told they charge $150 for a 10 lb bottle. I'm assuming the shipping expense is the reason why it's much more.

Odds are I'll probably end up just doing the drag radials this year.
 
I would go for the cams. It’s a one and done on price and you get the enjoy the power gains “all the time”.
 
Nomar06 said:
I would go for the cams. It’s a one and done on price and you get the enjoy the power gains “all the time”.
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That's what I was thinking. I just wish there were some first hand experiences dyno results with the skunk2 cams.
 
Might have to do some research on how to tell if work rims are real. The pain job isn't very quality on these. But they will do I think.
Need to order some drag radials.
1000001354.jpg
 
Janz3n said:
Might have to do some research on how to tell if work rims are real. The pain job isn't very quality on these. But they will do I think.
Need to order some drag radials.
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Any stampings on the inside face?

Also, can't really tell is they were re-sprayed or powder coated
 
I know this doesn't help.....from the few pics I can find on the webz, I have seen a "work" logo stamped on the barrel, in between the spokes. Which your wheels do not have. Then I have seen a pic of a wheel the does not have the made in japan stamping by the lug nut holes. Which your wheel does have.

The 2 stampings on either side of the valve stem do match what your wheel has. Also, the lug hole patterns match your wheels to online pics.

I have not seen a pic of a 16 inch wheel. All I find is 17. So not sure if that is what makes a difference or if they did different stampings for different years.
 
Well they came with a work box that holds two wheels. work is stamped on the inside of the outer lip. says mfg by work. i cant tell if its powder coat or not. also has 620kg on the outside lip. seller said they were new old stock.
they dont look very similar to online pictuers of rear ones.
 
I saw some that had a little concave face and more of the ones that had a flat face like yours. So you could only have the fronts from a staggered set that was split up? and you know, most people want a full set of four wheels. So these could have just been sitting in some store.
 
That's gross^ mostly because the spoiler is backwards.

Test fitted the works. They fit with tones of clearance. Could have gone with a 15 inch rim. Rim is pretty close to the shock. Hopefully 245s fit without touching the shocks.
 
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