Search results

It's a cover for the oem cap. Simply a dress up piece. Nothing changes as far as function.

I don't foresee a circumstance in which a lightly modded car would need a high performance radiator cap. I could see if you were running boost or tracking the car how it would be necessary. My understanding (which could be wrong) is that the cap will allow higher amounts of pressure to build...

Yes it is just a cap. I figured he was just looking for a bit of dress up piece with no need for anything performance based.

The skunk2 cap is probably fine. I had this one. https://www.vmsracing.com/products/radiator-cap-cover-cnc-machined-anodized-billet-aluminum-universal

I would avoid sickspeed stuff. It's junk and the colors will fade in less than a year. I got mine from blackworksracing.

Hasport rear motor mount for R18. Urethane is a 62A. Has 10-15k miles on it. Still in good shape. A little bit of surface rust, nothing major. The good part is that the bushing is broken in so you don't have to go through the teeth shattering break in period. $100 + shipping.

For sale are the strut tower bar and trunk brace. I bought these from Team3d a few years ago. Very few of these exist in blue. They have some miles on them so there is minor damage. The trunk brace has a few scratches and there is some rust on the strut brace. Nothing major but these are used...

Lol. Seems that way. It was my fault. I was doing some work and I didn't check my grounding cable connection. It had gotten a little corroded and I ignored it. 90,000 miles and 5 years has taken a toll. A little sandpaper and everything is good to go.

Did you figure out what's wrong? I just got stuck at the grocery store. Looks like I have a bad ground. I'm on my way home now to investigate.

Can you get a jump from someone nearby?

Sorry to hear that. That blows. Hondas have a history of bad batteries. I put a new battery in after less than 3 years.

I don't think anything is wrong. Mine is the same. It takes a few seconds for the PCM to read what your mpg is. It needs to evaluate run time and fuel usage to get a reading. At start there are no values to make a determination.

I would say that 0-60 is the same. However, 60-100 the car pulls much harder. The car feels like it wants to go 80, not 55. All I notice at slow speeds is the added noise. I would even argue there is a loss of some low end power. When you open it up you can feel the difference. Part of this is...

I sent him a pull following his directions online and I was told it's too hard to get an accurate Edyno on an auto. I don't know if I did it wrong or if he left out a step but he didn't seem too keen on doing it anyways. After such a long time to finish the tune I got frustrated and moved on...

The downpipe is one of the best mods out there. The response is better throughout with a bit more power on the high end. Vit finished tuning my car a few months ago. No dyno as he told me it's impossible to get good results on an auto. I'm very happy with how the car drives now.

I use Ktuner and bought it the day it came out. No issues or complaints. Vit did my tunes so i can't speak for the software and use, just the result.

I have them on my car. They are very nice. I also have the strut king dead pedal. I got the modulo set from team3d so I'm not sure if they're legitimate. They've held up fine either way

If your looking for performance I would skip the TBS and get the RV6 down pipe. It's not cheap but worth every penny. Car looks great btw!

Yes

I voted. But I didn't help any :(