2013 SI Starting Issues

mySIck

mySIck

Well-Known Member
2,255
1,507
FT. Bragg, NC
Vehicle Model
Civic SI
Body Style
Sedan
I am having trouble starting my cars sometimes. When I go to turn my car on it makes a clicking noise and then all my lights go off until I let the key go then if I try agian it Dose it agian.
I just pluged my Hondata in to check the battery volts it shows its between 14.28-14.30 until I turn on my lights and radio then it drops to 13.7 but only for 1-2 sec. And I get 12.40 when the car is off when using a volt reader.
I believe it is still the battery but was wondering if anyone has had this issue and What they did to fix it. Bucause I would hate to buy a battery then that would not be the issue. Also the green light that is on the battery is no longer green. And I don't have any codes
 
Do you have any sort of electrical system modifications?

Are you checking the voltage with the car running or off? If it is off voltage drop is normal when you turn on accessories since you are placing load on the system.

It could be a battery especially if its still the original battery that's in your car from the factory. You can always take it to a place like advance auto and they can throw it on their tester for free.
 
Flightmaster127 said:
Do you have any sort of electrical system modifications?

Are you checking the voltage with the car running or off? If it is off voltage drop is normal when you turn on accessories since you are placing load on the system.

It could be a battery especially if its still the original battery that's in your car from the factory. You can always take it to a place like advance auto and they can throw it on their tester for free.
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I don't have any electronic mods, I did take it to Honda a few days ago and they said it was good. But I just now got back from AutoZone and it came up as a bad battery so I just ordered it hopfully it works.
 
mySIck said:
I don't have any electronic mods, I did take it to Honda a few days ago and they said it was good. But I just now got back from AutoZone and it came up as a bad battery so I just ordered it hopfully it works.
Click to expand...

Possibly corrosion on posts - will do the same thing, and prevent the battery from charging.
 
Voltage wont show the integrity of a battery. The rating of each battery is in CCA or cold cranking amps. A battery rated at 400 cca can show 12.66 volts and only put out 100 cca. The amperage is what is used not the voltage, I bet as soon as that heavy load on the starter hits the battery it falls on it's face. If you can get the battery tested at an auto parts store to confirm it's good then do that before killing yourself over electrical issues. Only other issue really is the starter if your battery tests good. Batt's tend to last 2-3 years average so good luck hope you figure it out.

Edit: Saw after you said it tested good then bad so hope the new battery works
 
Darkout said:
Voltage wont show the integrity of a battery. The rating of each battery is in CCA or cold cranking amps. A battery rated at 400 cca can show 12.66 volts and only put out 100 cca. The amperage is what is used not the voltage, I bet as soon as that heavy load on the starter hits the battery it falls on it's face. If you can get the battery tested at an auto parts store to confirm it's good then do that before killing yourself over electrical issues. Only other issue really is the starter if your battery tests good. Batt's tend to last 2-3 years average so good luck hope you figure it out.

Edit: Saw after you said it tested good then bad so hope the new battery works
Click to expand...

Darkout said:
Voltage wont show the integrity of a battery. The rating of each battery is in CCA or cold cranking amps. A battery rated at 400 cca can show 12.66 volts and only put out 100 cca. The amperage is what is used not the voltage, I bet as soon as that heavy load on the starter hits the battery it falls on it's face. If you can get the battery tested at an auto parts store to confirm it's good then do that before killing yourself over electrical issues. Only other issue really is the starter if your battery tests good. Batt's tend to last 2-3 years average so good luck hope you figure it out.

Edit: Saw after you said it tested good then bad so hope the new battery works
Click to expand...

Thank you!! I just learned that about the battery. I am not good with electrical stuff but I am learning more about it. I did not have a way to check the volts drop while trying to turn the ignition over I tried to set my phone up but it would not stay put.
But I did get a Yellow top for a good price. And so far it seems to work good but it's only been 1 day. I am hoping I did not do any damage to the starter or alternator since I have been driving with a bad battery for a while now.
 
No your electrical system is fine, a weak battery wont do anything. Over powering or over amperage (which is why a fuse pops) will be what causes damage. So an alternator putting out 16v will have damaging effects for example.
 
Darkout said:
No your electrical system is fine, a weak battery wont do anything. Over powering or over amperage (which is why a fuse pops) will be what causes damage. So an alternator putting out 16v will have damaging effects for example.
Click to expand...

Oh ok, so the alternator or other components don't have to work harder to compensate for the battery low power to oparate? For some reason I had in my head it would cause strain on other components.
 
No not at all, the battery is there to mainly just start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is running and the alternator is putting out 13.0ish-14.5v your battery (for the most part) acts as a surge protector for the alt and reservoir for electrical loads. Theoretically the battery can be removed once the engine is running and the alternator is taking control of electrical power output. The battery stays to absorb the spikes in amperage and voltage (they are linked) so that the ECU and other computer/modules that are solid state and run on 12v (and w/e set amps) don't see the 14-16v spike and fry them.
 
Darkout said:
No not at all, the battery is there to mainly just start the vehicle. Once the vehicle is running and the alternator is putting out 13.0ish-14.5v your battery (for the most part) acts as a surge protector for the alt and reservoir for electrical loads. Theoretically the battery can be removed once the engine is running and the alternator is taking control of electrical power output. The battery stays to absorb the spikes in amperage and voltage (they are linked) so that the ECU and other computer/modules that are solid state and run on 12v (and w/e set amps) don't see the 14-16v spike and fry them.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the information and all the help.
 
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