Bleeding brakes

G

GeoUCF14

Well-Known Member
11
1
Hello,
I will be installing a set of stainless steel brake lines, and K-tuned clutch line upgrade on my 2015 Honda Civic Si. I have flushed/bleed brake systems in the past, without the use of bleeding kits. However, this time I would like to use one; simplify install, decrease downtime and manpower. So here are my questions

(1) Those that have swapped out OE brake lines for aftermarket, did you bleed the brake system dry? If so, how?

Example-Presumably, extract all the brake fluid I can from master cylinder location, than either pressurize the system with air and go to passenger rear caliper to extract all remaining brake fluid.

(2) has anybody used a brake bleed kit? Recommendations?

Looking at Motive Products Import Power Bleeder Kit 0251.

(3) Acceptable to allow the brake pedal, or clutch pedal rest on floor when system is bled dry?

(4) How do we bleed the clutch system on our cars?

Thanks,
 
Are you changing to a different brake fluid? If not then i would say not to bleed it dry. Swap one line at a time and don't let the MC go dry. Are you using a vacuum bleeder? Start with one of the front lines, bleed out the air and cap the bleeder. Move to the next one and keep the MC full. Bleed as little as you need to. Less chance of trapping air somewhere in the system you can't get to. If you let the MC go dry its recommended to remove it from the car and bench bleed that component on its own. PITA. Try not to let that happen unless you are completely changing out all the fluid to a different type.



Clutch Line DIY with bleeding help:

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/p2r-braided-clutch-line-13-si.11485/
 
Like nix said if you aren't doing a fluid swap as well don't let the system run dry. It makes the bleeding process that much harder. I just got done swapping lines and calipers on my project car. I swapped fluid so the system went dry, and it was a giant PITA to get the entire system air free and get solid pedal feel. I tried using a vacuum bleeder and still had to wind up using the 2 person method to get all the air out.

Also its generally not recommended to let the pedal go all the way to the floor as the corrosion that builds up on the MC pushrod can damage the seal and cause a leak. Your car is a 2015 so I highly doubt you will have any corrosion yet so you should be fine using the full pedal travel.
 
I would recommend as well to not let the system go completely dry as you may introduce an air pocket in the MC that will be a PITA to bleed out yourself. I personally don't do anything with vacuum bleeding anymore as every time I would get air pockets in the lines and waist time trying to bleed out something I caused. Pressure bleeding is better IMO than vacuum bleeding but special equipment will be needed and not possible if you don't. My preferred method is the good ol' gravity bleeding, as long as the reservoir doesn't run dry then you will never get an air bubble. Takes a little longer but well worth the less headaches. Even switching from dot 3 to dot 4 only gravity bled since I wasn't breaking open the system aka changing lines. If I do end up changing a caliper or line or some component that opens the system then i'll...1) try to pinch of a rubber hose before the point I open the system to keep fluid from flowing out my opening. This is more factory brake line with a caliper replacement, not many rubber lines if any other than the four caliper hoses. 2) Let the system gravity bleed as much air as you can out of the system without letting the reservoir become dry once your done putting your new line in. 3) Once you see no more bubbles, close the bleeder and do a pump and bleed a few times to get any remaining. Why you ask? In my experience with dozens of brake repairs is that all the air may or may not be pushed out by pure gravity alone. If your doing a fluid exchange/flush then this wont happen as the system stays sealed. Pumping the pedal and holding it while you crack the bleeder will exert much higher pressure (even more than pressure bleeding and yes I have had to manual bleed several cars after a pressure bleed since the machine only goes so high in pressure and only after a part replacement) to force out the air trapped in pockets. But how do I do this alone?! Trusty pry bar, that's how! Pump the pedal 5-10 times and wedge the pry bar between the brake pedal and the seat. Best way I found is sit half way on the chair, pump the pedal and get the pry bar to to just barely be wedged against the pedal and seat while you have the pedal depressed. Get out, turn around and as fast and in one motion possible, lift the lever to slide the seat and "throw" it forward to depress the pedal as much as possible. You can then walk to your bleeder and crack it open. Go slowly and just close it the second you see fluid stop flowing. Normally you'll get a few stragglers doing this method.

Sorry if that ramble may be hard to understand but hope it helps.
 
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