Brake pad question

S

silversilvia

Well-Known Member
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I have a specific question on brake pads and stopping distance. I have a 13 civic Si sedan - when i got the car i exchanged the stock tires with RE-11.

I autocross and need to keep the car stock. I always wondered how better brake pads help with stopping distance - when i am autocrossing i stand on the brakes until the ABS comes on, and certainly in autocrossing there is not enough braking for the brakes to fade. so my question is how would upgrading brake pads over OEM help braking distance since i am technically locking up the wheels and activating ABS already - will a higher friction brake pad just make the wheels lock up easier? then in my mind the ABS system modulating/tire contact friction with the road would be the same.

thanks!
 
Just for starters, anything you can do to make the car stop faster is going to improve the distance(or lack of). Just because the abs kicks in doesn't mean that you're pizzing in the wind, because you are still making the abs kick in sooner, and the beat goes on....... So all the standards still apply: pads/pistons/steel lines/and last but not least fresh quality brake fluid.
Also getting to the point where you can gain the maximum stopping distance "without" the abs kicking in, this is also allowing for a smoother transition of getting though turns with a lot less temp changes to the tyre and brake fluid. The fastest time is slow in, fast out with the least amount of unnecessary demands on the system.
 
Monk hit the nail on the head where he says "without" the ABS kicking in.

Better pads will give you a better initial bite (most of your hard braking should be done initially, then tapering off until the apex), and better modulation. There is still much to gain from removing the stock pads with something good.
 
jrotax101 said:
Monk hit the nail on the head where he says "without" the ABS kicking in.

Better pads will give you a better initial bite (most of your hard braking should be done initially, then tapering off until the apex), and better modulation. There is still much to gain from removing the stock pads with something good.
Click to expand...

This reminds me that there are lots of ppl that don't know the technical definition of "Trail braking". It's what jrotax said above it's the combo of braking hard than letting off the brake to the apex, doesn't mean releasing the brake just controlling the brake pressure to get lighter until you're on the gas again. I've read/heard more misunderstandings of what TB means............ MC or Cars .... some would think rear brake only in the turn, some front brake and so on. But it's the fine line of still braking past the point of when the average peep would get off of it. but when doing this remember it is a fine line on traction, or you'll be having to learn drifting in short order.
Even in a non race just average driving situation, the rule of thumb is to either be on the brake or gas "no coasting".......... Coasting or braking will put wt. on the front end, so in most cases you want to apply gas after you get off the brake........ there are exceptions, like needing a little more wt. to control understeer(front tyre sliding instead of allowing the car to turn). But this is again another delicate touch, a track would be the place to practice these options.
 
Thank you for the explanation. I will throw some nice pads on this winter and test it out next season, will probably make more sense once i feel it.

thanks
 
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