Multiple issues after clutch install

Zach Terrell

Well-Known Member
51
26
Alamance, NC
Vehicle Model
Civic Si
Body Style
Sedan
Had my clutch replaced last weekend and a few issues came up when we got done.
1) starter will not engage, spin, click, anything. It’s like it’s completely dead but we have power going to it and can feel a slight hum whenever we turn the key.
2) TCS kept blinking and stays active when the car gets at/above 10mph. My Tpms sensors aren’t programmed so usually TCS never activated. I unplugged the ABS module just to get it home and it didn’t feel like anything was off.

We installed a RSX type S clutch kit from exedy and matching flywheel and the car goes in and out of gear without issue, turned misfire detection off as well and drove about 30 minutes home. The gear on the starter did clear the flywheel as well. We’ve triple checked every harness and ground we could find on and near the trans and all are tight and secure. I’m honestly just lost at this point and can’t find any thread on my issue. Someone care to help out?
 
Check the ground on the trans? Check the starter relay in the engine bay fuse box? Could also check the fuse #5 in the engine bay?


Engine compartment fuses

■ Circuit protected and fuse rating
Circuit Protected Amps
1
EPS 70 A
− −
ABS/VSA Motor 30 A
ABS/VSA FSR 30 A
− −
Main Fuse 100 A
2
IG Main 50 A
Fuse Box Main 60 A
Fuse Box Main 2 60 A
Headlight Main 30 A
− −
Rear Defogger 30 A
− −
Blower 40 A
− −
Sub Fan Motor 20 A
Main Fan Motor 20 A
3 − −
4 Left Headlight Low Beam 10 A
5 Starter DIAG, ST MG 7.5 A
6 Right Headlight Low Beam 10 A
7 − −
8 − −
9 − −
10 − −
11 Oil Level 7.5 A
12 Fog Lights* (20 A)
13 Driver’s Power Seat Sliding* (20 A)
14 Hazard 10 A
15 FI Sub 15 A
16 IG Coil 15 A
17 Stop 15 A
18 Horn 10 A
19 Premium Amp* (20 A)
20 INJ (15 A)
21 IGP 15 A
22 DBW 15 A
23 H/L LO 20 A
24
Driver’s Power Seat
Reclining* (20 A)
25 MG Clutch 7.5 A
26 − −
27 SMALL 20 A
28 Interior Lights 7.5 A
29 Backup 10 A
 
Check the ground on the trans? Check the starter relay in the engine bay fuse box? Could also check the fuse #5 in the engine bay?


Engine compartment fuses

■ Circuit protected and fuse rating
Circuit Protected Amps
1
EPS 70 A
− −
ABS/VSA Motor 30 A
ABS/VSA FSR 30 A
− −
Main Fuse 100 A
2
IG Main 50 A
Fuse Box Main 60 A
Fuse Box Main 2 60 A
Headlight Main 30 A
− −
Rear Defogger 30 A
− −
Blower 40 A
− −
Sub Fan Motor 20 A
Main Fan Motor 20 A
3 − −
4 Left Headlight Low Beam 10 A
5 Starter DIAG, ST MG 7.5 A
6 Right Headlight Low Beam 10 A
7 − −
8 − −
9 − −
10 − −
11 Oil Level 7.5 A
12 Fog Lights* (20 A)
13 Driver’s Power Seat Sliding* (20 A)
14 Hazard 10 A
15 FI Sub 15 A
16 IG Coil 15 A
17 Stop 15 A
18 Horn 10 A
19 Premium Amp* (20 A)
20 INJ (15 A)
21 IGP 15 A
22 DBW 15 A
23 H/L LO 20 A
24
Driver’s Power Seat
Reclining* (20 A)
25 MG Clutch 7.5 A
26 − −
27 SMALL 20 A
28 Interior Lights 7.5 A
29 Backup 10 A
Yes we checked relay and can hear it clicking, fuses are good we checked every fuse while we had it open. Trans to body ground has been cleaned and tightened down about 4-5 different times thinking it may be the problem.
 
That’s weird. U guys checked the steering rack connectors? I’m assuming you dropped the subframe?

I popped every code under the sun but they went away after I drove for a bit. Also I’m curious to know why u installed a clutch for a rsx?
 
That’s weird. U guys checked the steering rack connectors? I’m assuming you dropped the subframe?

I popped every code under the sun but they went away after I drove for a bit. Also I’m curious to know why u installed a clutch for a rsx?
Yep we’ve triple checked every connector, bolt, nut we touched. All are good but I guess I could check again. And yeah we dropped the subframe. I used an type S clutch mainly because it was on sale at the time and it works in our cars too you just have to use the type S flywheel. The only difference I notice between our stock and the type S is the placement of the friction ring on the flywheel. But it shifts great it’s just way lighter on the pedal than stock and I don’t really like it but I haven’t gotten the chance to even bed it in yet either. I can’t seem to figure out how to get a EPA compliant tune to allow me to turn off misfire detection though so I can’t get any codes from it
 
Only thing I can think of is trying a different starter. All u have to do is take off the splash guard (if u have one) to get to it. Maybe take it off and visually check it. Like for oil and if the gear is shredded. Also maybe the solenoids bad. I’m just thinking out loud cause I know you guys have combed through the electrical side of things.
 
Only thing I can think of is trying a different starter. All u have to do is take off the splash guard (if u have one) to get to it. Maybe take it off and visually check it. Like for oil and if the gear is shredded. Also maybe the solenoids bad. I’m just thinking out loud cause I know you guys have combed through the electrical side of things.
So there is a way to get to it without taking the manifold off? I stared at it for 30 mins trying to think of how to reach it. We tried the old tapping on it trick but it still won’t do anything. I drove the car for a hour or so earlier and the clutch feels completely fine so I got some relief. If it were something with the steering connectors would that possibly be causing the traction control issue?
 
Yea. U would throw codes and most likely ur car will go into limp. If I remember correctly I can get to the starter from under the car.
 
Well with the tune I run now most everything is turned off and I’m not certain on how to get the essentials I need back on, I’m a huge novice when it comes to tuning but i had someone etune mine. I turned misfire detection off to keep it from hitting limp mode so I’ve gotten somewhere on that. My cars extremely low so it’s hard to easily do anything to it. I tried my hardest to see how I could get the starter off with this stock manifold but it’s way different than my old accord.
 
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