PRL Battery Relocation - Touchy Electrical?

Nefertiti_Civi

Nefertiti_Civi

Well-Known Member
Messages
46
Reaction score
43
Hey guys,

I recently installed my PRL Battery relocation kit to re-route my short ram from the heat. I followed basically the same procedures as the DIY for the PRL Cold Air Intake install by dspizzle as he nicely describes how to install the battery tray.

I removed the brown clip that was attached to the positive battery harness to free up some slack with the cables but it occasionally when I go to start the car, all my electronics will kill as if my battery died. Today when this happened, I went under the hood to check the harness. When I pulled on the slim connector closest to the radiator that is linked to the positive battery harness (pic attached), my car clicked, and the electronics were restored. Also occasionally while driving, my radio will go out as well. My electronics seem to kill every now and then when I turn off the car (Possibly due to the motor shaking to a stop?)

Has anyone experienced this, or have had this issue? could it be something wrong with the clip on the Pos. battery harness?
 

Attachments

  • 8BB0B84E-32DE-44BF-B631-55B32D2C0B1E.jpeg
    8BB0B84E-32DE-44BF-B631-55B32D2C0B1E.jpeg
    319 KB · Views: 18
Mine did the same thing when I first installed my Skunk2 intake that required the battery relocation. I had an issue with that brown wire that needed to be extended off the radiator. But I can't remember what I did to resolve it.
 
Did u nick the wire with a razor or does the connector feel loose?Mines pretty tight but I used the sk2 relocate with the prl setup.

98965C0C-C08A-4E94-95F9-EC92BC5AC458.jpeg Did u cut and extend any other wires?
 
ron v said:
Did u nick the wire with a razor or does the connector feel loose?Mines pretty tight but I used the sk2 relocate with the prl setup.

View attachment 59484 Did u cut and extend any other wires?
Click to expand...


I am not sure, the wire doesn't look frayed or anything, All I did was cut open the loom around 4-5 inches since the battery cable was tugging pretty tightly on the connector. I didn't touch any additional wires though. I am not sure what else to do. I hate getting into the car and resetting my clock every time lol
 
Nefertiti_Civi said:
I am not sure, the wire doesn't look frayed or anything, All I did was cut open the loom around 4-5 inches since the battery cable was tugging pretty tightly on the connector. I didn't touch any additional wires though. I am not sure what else to do. I hate getting into the car and resetting my clock every time lol
Click to expand...

I just did this last night. Have you checked to see if your harnesses are tight on the terminals? I cannot tighten mine enough to stop them from twisting. It is really annoying. Right now, the positive is zip-tied down and the negative has the wire looms under the battery tie-down. I need to figure something out...
 
squiggy said:
I just did this last night. Have you checked to see if your harnesses are tight on the terminals? I cannot tighten mine enough to stop them from twisting. It is really annoying. Right now, the positive is zip-tied down and the negative has the wire looms under the battery tie-down. I need to figure something out...
Click to expand...

I did a check and everything seems pretty snug. The only thing I confused about is the battery extension piece that goes onto the positive terminal. Mine has always been shaky, but I tightened the hell out of it. I know this piece just 'sits' on top of the terminal though, but I don't like how wobbly it seems. :think:

But I did notice that if the clip is sitting higher, my car doesn't seem to lose the electricals as often as just letting it dangle... Slightly frustrating.
 
dangy, shaky wobbly electrics doesn't seem like the type of work honda would do likely to start a car fire and burn everything up that's amc type wiring, I thought that went extinct in the dinosaur car world:toilet::flame: . take the car to a pro and let a pro look over your work or pay the penalty of pig napping. Loose wires over bumpy roads better look for a temp gauge too. Shorty time. the Honda's battery is really small 2 pounds less than a srt-4 battery. Just for a tiny bit of extra air?
 
Last edited:
Nefertiti_Civi said:
I did a check and everything seems pretty snug. The only thing I confused about is the battery extension piece that goes onto the positive terminal. Mine has always been shaky, but I tightened the hell out of it. I know this piece just 'sits' on top of the terminal though, but I don't like how wobbly it seems. :think:

But I did notice that if the clip is sitting higher, my car doesn't seem to lose the electricals as often as just letting it dangle... Slightly frustrating.
Click to expand...

My positive cable was tight on the Skunk2 battery setup. I know Skunk2 used the design from the 8th gen so mine sat to far back and to high causing it to pull on the positive terminal.
 
webby said:
it's not stock. They relocated the battery for aftermarket intakes
Click to expand...
I have seen many failures messing with honda air box's when most of the time better to have left it alone. Modded air box's need to have a better exhaust to see any real effect and add extra dirt getting into the engine from poorly designed air filters. Exhaust first then more air if needed-most of the time these modded air filters are just junk. I only saw the cold air plr 3.5inch air filter actually made any more power which risk getting water into the engine. The stock oem filter might be flowing 3" of air. Someone should actually find out how much the OEM air filter is doing? If OEM is flowing 3" then you will never see a gain of HP out of a 3" exhaust which the stock Honda is not doing. I may add I did find one cheap air filter mod proven to work-the carquest replacement filter very small 1.5 hp maybe two hp. I would be very careful doing stuff that makes the car unreliable.:hmmm?:
 
Acuity, PRL and Skunk2 all make 3.5" intakes for our car's. VitViper did a full blog on this subject. Honda did a good job on the intake systems for the 9th gen SI and the exhaust on the 9.5.

All 3 3.5" intake will give you a power gain not much but a few hp. Doing a BPU (basic performance upgrades) exhaust manifold, exhaust, intake system, fuel and a tune. With out a doubt you should see a full increase in power across the full rev range.
 
a honda is suppose to just work all the time. I have to admit sometimes being ignorant and typing info that isn't correct, but that's called a :confuzzled::coffee: I am too busy to mod cars at this time, but winter is coming and then I stay inside and turn up the heat.:flame:
 
Last edited:
good to know. I don't really know enough about Hondas yet, perhaps a bit different then cars use too. I am learning however. So far I did a 1.oil change, 2.a tranny change and 3. air filter. And added 4.Firehawk 500 tires. 5. Oh , I also did a anti freeze change too. So I did five thing so far and the car is running perfect as far as stock honda si can be.:bananapop:
 
Last edited:
mySIck said:
My positive cable was tight on the Skunk2 battery setup. I know Skunk2 used the design from the 8th gen so mine sat to far back and to high causing it to pull on the positive terminal.
Click to expand...

Ahh.. that's no good. I feel like I have it sitting in a good spot at the moment with no tension. My fingers are crossed that it doesn't start acting up again... on the positive note, I do like the much improved IATs the car is seeing.
 
Hey guys, just wanted to close this out, but I did figure out the problem.

looks like my smart self didn’t tighten the battery extension post on the positive side... :shady: I ended up just taking out the battery, installed the post, tightened the post on the battery and reinstalled everything.

absolutely no problems now... I feel dumb now lol.

thanks for everyone’s help!
 
No need to feel dumb man. We’ve all made those kinds of mistakes. Thanks for posting the solution!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top