Remote Start System Retrofit Questions

AlmosN8kd

AlmosN8kd

Well-Known Member
335
238
Clermont, FL
Vehicle Model
2012 Honda Civic Si, 1994 Stealth R/T TT, 2009 CBR1000RR, 2016 Pilot Touring AWD
Body Style
Sedan
First, my apologies if this is a repeat; I did search the forum a bit on this topic but did not find what I was looking for to answer my questions.

I have a 2012 Civic Si which I would like to add a remote starter to; my preference would be to buy the factory optioned system and retrofit it into my car. However, from what I've found, this does not seem to be available for the M/T vehicles. I've seen this in the past with other vehicles; however, have been able to get around it by verifying the eBrake is set/grounded which allows a remote starter to work.

Anyhow, has this been done here? If so, what did it take to do?

Is this the right system to get: 08E91-E22-101A (supposedly replaces: 08E91-E22-100A) with 08E91-E54-100 (the brain?)
https://www.hondapartsonline.net/in...t&scatgrp=electronics&scatsubgrp=remote-start
https://www.hondapartsonline.net/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=08E91-E54-100

This one says it will work on an Si (although, it does not specify the M/T issue).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Genuine-Honda-Accessories-08E92-TR0-100-Remote-Engine-Starter-wiring/183194909774?fits=Make:Honda|Model:Civic&epid=1426945492&hash=item2aa7447c4e:g:kmMAAOSwSEZa327t:sc:USPSFirstClass!23322!US!-1

Can someone point me in the right direction here? Again, my apologies if this has been posted and I missed it; I did search around and read other threads but they focused more on aftermarket units (I'd prefer to go factory if possible before venturing down the aftermarket path). Thank you in advance for your time.
 
Last edited:
From my research OEM Remote start requires Honda's Scantool to activate the unit, so you would have to go to the dealership after installation...

Any car MT/AT can have remote start, its just if you leave the car in gear and remote start it, the car will jump forward/reverse in that gear. Then you can sue the company... It's just a wire that needs to be grounded to see the e-brake or whatever is engage.

For when its time for my to purchase a kit, I chose this MPC unit from Amazon. I am not 100% set but it has the T-harness so you do not need to splice any wires. This unit uses the Honda key fob remote to start the car (Press lock 3x), so you are limited to the oem remote range. They have another unit with a remote for longer range but the kit does not come with the T-harness. Maybe you can contact the company and get the T-harness?
 
webby said:
https://www.collegehillshondaparts.com/oem-parts/honda-remote-start-08e91e22101a
Says it works with the 2012 si manual trans.

It just has a 4 step procedure you have to go through to activate it. Discussed in here
http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/anyone-else-with-a-remote-car-starter.6071/
Click to expand...

Thank you. The 4-step procedure was a bit of a shock; but, makes sense. It is the usual stuff that I do normally; however, the 20-sec requirement and order may take a little getting used to.

freggie said:
From my research OEM Remote start requires Honda's Scantool to activate the unit, so you would have to go to the dealership after installation...

Any car MT/AT can have remote start, its just if you leave the car in gear and remote start it, the car will jump forward/reverse in that gear. Then you can sue the company... It's just a wire that needs to be grounded to see the e-brake or whatever is engage.

For when its time for my to purchase a kit, I chose this MPC unit from Amazon. I am not 100% set but it has the T-harness so you do not need to splice any wires. This unit uses the Honda key fob remote to start the car (Press lock 3x), so you are limited to the oem remote range. They have another unit with a remote for longer range but the kit does not come with the T-harness. Maybe you can contact the company and get the T-harness?
Click to expand...

The appeal of an aftermarket kit could be nice to avoid the 4-step procedure timing; but, that MPC kit you linked says it is compatible with A/T vehicles only (mine is M/T); and, according to this post, in the thread provided by Webby, it would be illegal to install an A/T unit into a M/T car. I'm not saying the cops are going to come by and check; however, I'd prefer to avoid issues as I am planning on the Si being my oldest child's car when the time is right (in about 5-10yrs). So, avoiding "special" things where you have to remember something is different or not "standard" is ideal. I know that is me being over cautious; but, since I'm not planning on keeping it forever, it is best for me to think of the next owner.

EDIT:
Did some more digging, and I was able to find install instructions for most cars; however, not the 9th Gen Civic. For example, here is one for a 2011 Civic:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1111554/Honda-08e91-E22-100b.html?page=5#manual
Point is, each of these instructions said there is an attachment kit needed; however, I was not able to find the right one for the 2012-2013 Civic. Will the 2014-2015 one work?
 
Last edited:
webby said:
https://www.collegehillshondaparts.com/oem-parts/honda-remote-start-08e91e22101a
Says it works with the 2012 si manual trans.
Click to expand...

You wouldn't happen to have any experience or know if 08E91-E22-101A includes everything needed, would you?

The link you provided even says that it requires 08E92-TA0-100, 08E92-SZA-100, 08E92-TA0-101, 08E92-TK8-100, 08E92-TR0-100, 08E92-T0A-100A of which there is more than one harness listed; however, searching each item, it looks as though one of those items is required for compatibility to other models (I didn't see anything listing it for a 2012-2013 Civic, I did see a harness for a 2014-2015 Civic though).
I've done some searching for 08E91-E22-101A and found a few listings that say they don't include a wiring harness. I'm not sure if it is the anti-liability claim stating it doesn't include the vehicle's internal wiring harness or if there is another harness required to mate the kit to the car. If you don't know, that is fine, just curious if you do given your time here on the forum.
 
Thanks again; you're certainly quicker than me. I appreciate you helping a n00b out.
 
I went with the Viper 4806V. It's a 2-way communication, so you get feedback on whether your car started/locked etc. I did have a hard time finding a shop that would install it on a MT vehicle, even when I explained that it had the 4-step safety feature described in the thread linked above. Finally found a smaller shop in Chicago that installed it, so I know there are shops out there that'll install just about anything you ask them to.
I've been totally happy with it, except that the remote controller itself has been falling apart almost since I got it. Granted I've had it for 4 years and it still starts my car, but the rubber is peeling off, and most of the surface-mount LEDs have broken off the circuit board. I'd have replaced it by now, but they're like $50 IIRC, and I'd be replacing it every few months.
 
webby said:
I don’t know much about them, but this one says it works for the 2012 civic si

https://www.collegehillshondaparts.com/oem-parts/honda-remote-start-attachment-08e92tr0100
Click to expand...

Not to nag further (even though I am about to do it anyway); how accurate is College Hills Honda on their fitment?

This website, which I also have no knowledge of their credibility, state the part doesn't fit a 2012 Si:
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genui...c&Year=2012&Submodel=&Filter=(bt=4,11;et=2,8)

And, on the other hand, these also says it does fit:
https://www.hondapartsdirect.com/oe...kYW4meT0yMDEyJnQ9c2kmZT02LXNwZWVkLW1hbnVhbA==
https://www.hondapartscheap.com/oem...kYW4meT0yMDEyJnQ9c2kmZT02LXNwZWVkLW1hbnVhbA==

I've noticed a lot of these websites look very similar; are they all the same company under different names?


Redrocket1 said:
I went with the Viper 4806V. It's a 2-way communication, so you get feedback on whether your car started/locked etc. I did have a hard time finding a shop that would install it on a MT vehicle, even when I explained that it had the 4-step safety feature described in the thread linked above. Finally found a smaller shop in Chicago that installed it, so I know there are shops out there that'll install just about anything you ask them to.
I've been totally happy with it, except that the remote controller itself has been falling apart almost since I got it. Granted I've had it for 4 years and it still starts my car, but the rubber is peeling off, and most of the surface-mount LEDs have broken off the circuit board. I'd have replaced it by now, but they're like $50 IIRC, and I'd be replacing it every few months.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback; I'm still leaning towards a factory unit for simplicity more than anything. I'm planning to install it myself so no worries on the shop. Just have to go to the dealer for the program matching since I can't do that myself.
 
Well, I am going to attempt this, I just ordered what I think are all the parts to do the retrofit.

08E91-E22-101A Remote Start Kit (known as the brain)
08E92-TR0-100 Remote Start Attachment (the harness that will attach the brain to the car)
(Optional) 08E91-E22-1M001 Remote Start Transmitter (the kit comes with one, but I wanted a second one for the second key).

Now, if only I could get HDS here at home I could completely avoid the dealer for the programming of the transmitters.
 
Ok, I have another question for those that may be able to help; searching here and on Google did not find an answer to this one; I suspect Webby will come back in minutes with the exact thing I should have found on my own (my search game has been weak lately - thank you in advance). @CollegeHillsHonda was able to come through for me with the specific directions for the 2012 Civic install instructions (thanks again, Paul). In the directions, it talks about the 6 dip switches for the control unit (which are set different than the other instructions I was looking at; so, having the proper directions was very helpful). Anyhow, my question is, what does each switch specifically control when it is off or on? The instructions tell you what they're for very vaguely; however, for example, I'm more curious to know what having "SW:5 Trunk Main SW" set to ON instead of OFF will mean for operation of the remote starter system (those details are not in the instructions and are what I have not been able to find online). Pic attached with the switch settings as shown in the instructions.

Now, one could just install it per the instructions (all off) and then play with the switches to find out; and that has occurred to me as an option; however, I'm hesitant to go that route. In order to change the settings, the unit must be unplugged and then plugged back in. My concern there is that unplugging the unit will dump the memory requiring another visit to the dealer to reprogram with HDS. Anyone have experience here? Perhaps I am over thinking this whole ordeal; but, with the posts I've read about not being able to perform certain functions with the car idling, I think that I may want some of those features if they're being disabled by the control unit (at least that is why I'm trying to dig into this a little more than usual).
 

Attachments

  • Dip Switch Settings (08E91'E22-101A Control Unit).jpg
    Dip Switch Settings (08E91'E22-101A Control Unit).jpg
    116.7 KB · Views: 5
Saw quite a few posts from people who did diy installs on pilots, Crv’s, fits, accords etc and most were asking why their remote starts weren’t working. Every post was talking about the switches being in the wrong position. It worked after putting the switches in the correct spots. So, I’m guessing if the switches aren’t in the spot shown for the diy, it prob won’t work on your car. They prob have the same control unit across all their cars to save cost. The install diys have different switches thrown to yes/no depending on the Honda model I looked at.
 
webby said:
Saw quite a few posts from people who did diy installs on pilots, Crv’s, fits, accords etc and most were asking why their remote starts weren’t working. Every post was talking about the switches being in the wrong position. It worked after putting the switches in the correct spots. So, I’m guessing if the switches aren’t in the spot shown for the diy, it prob won’t work on your car. They prob have the same control unit across all their cars to save cost. The install diys have different switches thrown to yes/no depending on the Honda model I looked at.
Click to expand...

I also figured that Honda would use the same module across multiple models and that the settings were sometimes different (which is why I was glad that Paul was able to get me the correct install instructions as the 2011 Civic settings were different). Because of this, I was thinking that I could "adjust" some of the switches to gain a certain functionality, not sure exactly what. For example, I read that some were not able to pop the trunk with the car in remote idle, that could get annoying; so, I was trying to get a more in depth meaning to the switches, especially since it says you can adjust them if you unplug/replug in the unit. I did miss that others said the system didn't work when repositioning the switches; but, I guess that does answer whether or not the unit could be unplugged and plugged back in without dumping the memory. Thank you again, Webby; you've been awesome throughout this whole project.
 
Got the last box of parts in today to do this install, here's to hoping Hurricane Florence doesn't F-up my world and I'm eligible to attempt the install this weekend (although, I find the likelihood of this to be low).
 
Managed to survive Hurricane Flo and had time to get the install on this done.

Few things to note for anyone looking to do this install (also note, my experience is for a manual car, these issues probably won’t be a problem for an automatic):
1) the bracket for the module will not work as is, it causes the module to hit the clutch pedal assembly. In order to get around this, I straightend out the original bend and put a bend in a new spot to move the module closer to the back of the fuse box and tuck it in between it and the clutch pedal bracket. How it is now, the very top of the new bend is about a mm from the clutch pedal sensor. But this did allow me to continue the install.
DA6EB2B6-F786-491A-8B31-0207F6E950A7.jpeg
2) by reforming the bracket, the relay and fuse harness will not clip into the prescribed hole in the bracket (the oval one next to the bend). To get around this, I separated the connector with two fuseable links from the combined relay harness assembly. I then clipped the fuse harness into the proper hole in the bracket (fuses pointing down instead of up as originally listed in the instructions) and I then took the combined relay harness assembly and clipped it onto one of the plug docks that are on the bottom of the fuse box. This worked pretty well and seemed to not pull the wires too much due to the new locations.
3) the kick panel had to be notched to accommodate the new module location.
68781C6C-A351-4E4F-A823-1FAB37E079F5.jpeg

Otherwise the instructions worked perfectly. I haven’t had the system programmed yet to test it; but, I did this and the ambient lighting harness install at the same time without any other issues (I think the most difficult part overall was removing the driver’s sunvisor, took a bit more work than I would have liked or expected). The car started up and drove fine afterwards so I think my install was good. I did not get a pic of everything assembled under there; I’ll try and take one later and add it to this post. Now, to pay Honda for the programming.

EDIT:
Here are some installed pics to try and show the new location as described above.

This pic, you can sort of see everything together (although, you kind of need to know what you’re looking at):
038F0FD0-F359-4353-BA16-14B07DF40BF7.jpeg

Here everything is from another angle; you can see the plug docks on the bottom of the fuse panel and the relay assembly (wrapped in the foam tape, per the instructions) clipped here, the fuseable links are directly behind (forward of) the relays:
975A9240-ED71-404D-84FE-F2314670D664.jpeg

Here is the notched kick panel; the black box with the yellow sticker is the remote start module:
F38BA8C0-F77C-4576-9005-A5AA8A82F818.jpeg

And, here is everything from a different angle (from directly below):
802CBDD7-F1CD-4D65-BA67-03C82C8390EC.jpeg
 
Last edited:
:confused: wonder why your bracket didn't work. Did you order the "08E92-TR0-100" model?
 
webby said:
:confused: wonder why your bracket didn't work. Did you order the "08E92-TR0-100" model?
Click to expand...

Yes, and that was the number on the box when I got it. The bracket, as it was, tried to put the module in the middle of the clutch pedal assembly, that is why it wouldn’t work (simply put, it didn’t fit). Only thing I could really think of was maybe a redesign that didn’t get completely vetted; that, or maybe they didn’t think anyone would actually put this on a manual car. Everything else fit just fine and connected up properly; it was just odd that early in the install, I was having to custom fit things.
 
Doesn’t make sense, unless you were sent the wrong part. There are 4 versions of the kit for various years and trims.

08E92-TR0-100 Is supposed to fit these models/years/trims. It shows manual and automatic on these.

325BDD6E-01DD-41E6-BEBA-8FB85F520CB5.jpeg



Then there is 100A
https://www.collegehillshondaparts....t-08e92tr0100a?c=bD0yJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM=

And 100b
https://www.collegehillshondaparts....t-08e92tr0100b?c=bD0zJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM=

And 100c
https://www.collegehillshondaparts....t-08e92tr0100c?c=bD00Jm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM=

I wonder if you were sent the wrong model part? Did you purchase it from collegehills?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top